2003 Cobra Coyote swap question(s)

1HUBCAP

110 octane
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Has anyone figured out how to wire up the stock gauges? I would like to keep them if all possible.

Any info sould be greatly appreciated!
 

BeanCrusher

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On a '96 the cluster is analog, so it is cake to get working...I think the '03 cluster is CANbus, so I suspect it will be tricky at best....
 

kln5014

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This was all on a 94 Cobra coyote swap I did. May be some differences since you are an 03 - you will need to keep your factory computer in conjunction with control pack (will enable you to keep pats, keep cluster operational following instructions below, AC if you choose, etc).

I just tee'd in my original oil pressure sending unit with the coyote unit. I kept factory wiring and ran directly to cluster. You should be able to just keep factory wiring completely and have it run through your factory computer, and then it'll go to your cluster.

For engine coolant temp, there is a screw in freeze plug above the oil filter mount that you can remove and install a brass adapter to use your factory engine coolant temp sensor. I kept factory wiring and ran directly to cluster, but you will have it run through your factory computer.

For the tach, I used the tach output wire on the control pack and wired in right to cluster. You may need to run this wire to the pinout on your factory computer.

As long as you don't touch anything with the fuel sending unit wires, that should still work fine.

I have a t56 magnum, so used the oss for the control pack, and retained vss for speedo. You will only have an OSS, so I would assume you can T the signal wires? You will need to call ford racing and ask them for the pins to add to the control pack for OSS. They should also be able to tell you how to wire it. They are very helpful.

I used the factory alternator harness to control the alternator instead of control pack. This allowed gauges to work and still allows for proper charging.
 

sneaky94cobra

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Answers

So the cluster is straight forward
-tach is a direct connection to your control pack
-battery should still work work unless you mess with the driverside wiring harness, which you shouldn't. And you are running your battery cables to the fuse box terminal like you should.
-oil pressure you will need a sender that taps into the factory location. Electric one is best however remember the factory cluster oil pressure is more of a dummy switch. If you want a more accurate reading get an aeroforce gauge from leathal it reads everything from the DLC.
-Coolant is just needs to tap into the sensor wiring.
-Speedo is a little tricky if you have an old 5 speed with a speedo gear then you don't need a speed cal and can get a gear to match your rearend combo. If you convert to a T-56 or any trans that use a relucter ring you will need a speed cal. to convert the digital to analog signal. And it takes a couple of trial and error trys to get the dip switches just right.

All in all i say just get a aeroforce gauge really good tool for tuning and detecting issue instead of the crap gauge cluster. Only good for speedo, fuel level, and tach IMO.
 

Bmeagher

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I have a question to add, can you use your stock fuel pump? And if so, what about the fuel rail sensors/vacuum?
I know return style is suggest, but can it be done with the stock pump/line setup?
 

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