2002 Cobra - is it possible to still get OEM Spec rubber IRS bushes? If not - WWYR?

[Jiffy]

Hi guys
I have an Australian delivered 2002 Cobra (same spec as a 2001) and I have done the whole Terminator swap/plastics/interior/whipple etc.

After 20-odd years of hard work, the IRS is loose and the LHS rear wheel bearing is toast. I need to get a new hub and bearing, but I also need upper and lower cross-axis joints, lower control arm bushes etc. I'll probably do uppers as well while it's apart.

I don't have time or tools to do this myself as I've just moved, so took it to a specialist suspension shop who said the new generation bushes are harder, work better at a race track etc, but NVH will go up unless you get OEM-spec rubber bushes.

He doesn't care which ones he installs, but as I'm getting on a bit in years and I like my wife travelling with me - it would be nice if the rear end was quieter - so - the question:

If I decided to go down that path, are original spec rubber bushes available for the control arms/cradle/X-axis or am I restricted to high-performance Delrin or Prothane type bushes?

Thoughts?

 

[01yellercobra]

I'm not sure if you can find the rubber bushings anymore. Maybe check with Tasca Ford.

I have the delrin in my 04 and it's really not that bad. It actually rides better now. Just make sure to run the poly diff bushings over the aluminum. The aluminum transfers more gear noise.

 

[Blkkbgt]

The rubber bushings for the IRS are long gone and you'll be very hard pressed to find a complete set that someone is holding on to.

You have 2 options.

1 is a poly set from ProThane and the cheapest. I haven't been a fan of poly in anything that articulates like control arms for a long time. The main reasons though are that they didn't last long and bound up. I ran them in the front of my car never the rear though.

Poly also tends to squeak when cold no matter how good you lube them. For me by the end of the winter (installed in the summer) mine were making all kinds of noise until I drove the car for 10 or so minutes. Again this was the front end.

2 is a complete delrin kit from either FTBR or MM. FTBR gets my vote as that is what I have and believe it to be a superior product to MM.

The car rides smoother going down the road but is a little more harsh with bumps and over rough pavement.

I have FTBR diff bushing as well and I minimized the increased gear noise with some dyna mat in the trunk. There is still a slight increase though.

You could definitely do poly for the diff mounts though to keep the noise to a minimum.

You can buy cross axis joints from FTBR, MM or SPC. SPC being the cheapest option.

If you need one hub and bearing I would do them both. Odds are if you actually press the hub out of the supposed good knuckle it's trash as well.

This happened to me last year. The drivers side looked fine but I decided to so the bearings on both knuckles. When I presses the hub out it was galled badly and obviously had been moving around in the bearing. The bearing looked fine from the outside.

Hubs can be bought from FTBR and Ford racing. Bearings however are cheapest from rock auto. Get Timken bearings because the price of a cheap bearing going bad it to high.

Hope this helps.

 

[Jiffy]

great work - thanks.

One thing - FTBR? Whazzat?

 

[Blkkbgt]

great work - thanks.

One thing - FTBR? Whazzat?

Full Tilt Boogie Racing.

 

[BUNKY]

Just did FTBR and extended lugs.
No issues.

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