- Joined
- Sep 3, 2017
- Messages
- 21
Good luck with itIt will be the first. I am expecting it today.
Good luck with itIt will be the first. I am expecting it today.
I am trying to source new inner IMRC cables, so I have been doing some studying of this.
First thing I assume is that the actuator box is exactly the same for the Mark 8 and the Cobra. If that is the case, then the cable length won't matter since it is the length of the inner cable travel that matters. If you can route the cables in a convenient way, the Mark 8 unit should work just fine on a Cobra motor assuming all the clips are compatible.
Assuming you do want to shorten the Mark 8 cables, you would have to cut the stop off of the inner cable and remove the plastic clip. It looks like it would be very hard/impossible to remove the plastic clip from the end of the sheath. So you would have to cut out a section of the sheath in the middle and then somehow fabricate and swage a sheath coupler to put the sheath back together again. Then you would shorten the inner cable, replace the plastic clip and swage a stop on the end of the inner cable. Seems like a hard thing to do.
FYI, I have two companies working on replacement inner cable solutions for me. I will probably take a few weeks before I see what they can do. I will let you know when I get the results. We haven't talked price yet, but I am suspecting it won't be cheap.
I am surprised that no one has any bad IMRC actuators that need repair. I would have expected there are a bunch laying in boxes in garages.
Thanks, I will contact Racebronco2 about purchasing an IMRC controller. It's probably the quickest way for me to get my ride back on the road and out of my Father-in-law's garage! Unfortunately for me, it was the cable that broke, and that break was close to the controller box.I have been able to source replacement inner cables for the IMRC controllers. However, taking the innards of the IMRC controller apart is very labor intensive, so it will cost a lot to replace the cables.
The things I have not been able to source are the cable sheaths including the plastic clips hat hold the sheath to the bracket and the electrical connector that is soldered to the PCB. So be very careful with those parts of the IMRC controllers.
I have also sourced repair clips for the ends if they are broken. I can replace those clips without replacing the cables.
In your case, it will probably be cheaper to contact Racebronco2 here or on Modfords. He has an inventory of IMRC controllers that I have refurbished for him and he is willing to sell them. He hasn't told me what his pricing is, but I am pretty sure it will be cheaper than me having to dismantle yours. But you should either keep yours or sell it to me as a core so that it can eventually be rebuilt when we run out of used inventory.
FYI, I have now repaired a bunch of them and the most common failure is cold solder joints on the connector that causes the resistance in the sensing circuit to go way up as you jiggle the connector. Resoldering those joints is challenging even with the professional soldering station I have because the connector pins don't extend through the PCB very far. I suspect the subcontractor factory had difficulty soldering them in the first place which is why we are seeing so many failures as they age.
the sheath was intact, cable inside sheath was broken. So everything looked good as I detached actuator, but then cable completely slipped out of sheathing. Then realized 4 inch section of cable was still attached to Actuator motor where it snapped.If you mean the sheath that broke, that is too bad. I have a couple of spares, so I can still repair it. So hang on to it or sell it to me or Racebronco2.
Thought so too. The end is so frayed like it rubbed on something sharp for years. But there are no splits in sheath so maybe it was a defective cable.Racebronco2
Mark,I have been able to source replacement inner cables for the IMRC controllers. However, taking the innards of the IMRC controller apart is very labor intensive, so it will cost a lot to replace the cables.
The things I have not been able to source are the cable sheaths including the plastic clips hat hold the sheath to the bracket and the electrical connector that is soldered to the PCB. So be very careful with those parts of the IMRC controllers.
I have also sourced repair clips for the ends if they are broken. I can replace those clips without replacing the cables.
In your case, it will probably be cheaper to contact Racebronco2 here or on Modfords. He has an inventory of IMRC controllers that I have refurbished for him and he is willing to sell them. He hasn't told me what his pricing is, but I am pretty sure it will be cheaper than me having to dismantle yours. But you should either keep yours or sell it to me as a core so that it can eventually be rebuilt when we run out of used inventory.
FYI, I have now repaired a bunch of them and the most common failure is cold solder joints on the connector that causes the resistance in the sensing circuit to go way up as you jiggle the connector. Resoldering those joints is challenging even with the professional soldering station I have because the connector pins don't extend through the PCB very far. I suspect the subcontractor factory had difficulty soldering them in the first place which is why we are seeing so many failures as they age.
I have refurbished a number of both for him this year, but most of them were the Cobra length ones.