1997 cobra starts but them shuts off

salvador ramirez

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Recently changed the fuel pump and assembly. Only have one key which is the original. The car starts but then immediately shuts off following with the theft blinking light. Any idea on how to fix this issue.
 

shurur

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Just throwing stuff out there.
But make sure your steering wheel is locked.

So did some reading...theft light will blink a number of times..then off for 3 seconds...then blink another number of times.

That is the code 98 svt is asking for.
 
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shurur

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ok..
If it is actually starting, by that I mean idling a bit, then dying that is one thing.

Otherwise I am not sure that I would blame the PATS just yet.
you could search on how to reset the pats.
supposedly on the Newedge you can leave the key on and in the car for 10 minutes and the pats will reset....but that may be a ruthless youtube canard..

Others will hopefully chime in...hopefully..
I would check all the things involved with getting gas to the engine.
I would make sure you put the correct type of part (fuel pump) in the car.

I think you SN95 folks systems were return style, but would need to look it up.

It looks like the 98 was a split year for return and returnless fuel system; so maybe half had the return style and the later half had returnless style fuel system, as I am seeing return style pumps for 1996-1998.5 and returnless for 1998+.

Is the fuel rail pressurized?
And other questions like that..

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/fuel-pump-for-98-cobra-please-educate-me.515050/
 
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ccq8le

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PATS can be a pain. More so and especially with only 1 key. I had 1 key fail for my mystic but luckily had a second,. It just failed out of the blue (when I was at the gas station). The car would start and die. I was able to nurse it to a safe parking spot using a quick start and go before the car shut off.

Like the one guy said check fuel rails for pressure. I have had a start and die issue when was low on gas and on a hill.

Also I have had a ccrm failure and was no voltage to my fuel pump. (You can unplug it from under the rear of the car and check voltage there) If I remember I think you actually check on the male plug side which I thought was odd and thus why I am remembering doing it but I am not certain.

Keep us posted, and good luck!

Sent from my SM-G965U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 
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jman37

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I had a no start situation a few weeks out of the blue. Drove the car, parked it for about 3-4 days and would just crank and crank. Checked all obvious things, fuel pump comes on, has spark, fuel coming out the rail, inertia switch.

I then figured it was the PATS system. I also only have one key, seemed to be blinking funnier than it used to and was dreading the worst. Checked a bunch of videos on it, looked at bypassing it, looked to getting a quick tune written to disable it etc. I came across a video for a new edge about just turning the key on and leaving it for 10 minutes. I tried it, waited til about 12 minutes, and presto, car fired right up. It's been fine ever since.

In my case, we had a pretty gnarly t-storm the day before all this happened and it rattled the ground and my house pretty good, so I'm not sure if something got disrupted with the PATS system and caused all this.

edit* railroad reminded me I also checked the inertia switch, was my first thought.
 
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shurur

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I then figured it was the PATS system. I also only have one key, seemed to be blinking funnier than it used to and was dreading the worst. Checked a bunch of videos on it, looked at bypassing it, looked to getting a quick tune written to disable it etc. I came across a video for a new edge about just turning the key on and leaving it for 10 minutes. I tried it, waited til about 12 minutes, and presto, car fired right up. It's been fine ever since.
.


I saw that video too!
Nice to know it works!
 

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