1996 Cobra no start

[Fixxer]

Thanks for all the different answers guys! I'm glad that there are so many different things for me to try via the forum.

First, the locksmith is coming tomorrow. He is going to change out the ignition cylinder and program my 2 keys. We shall see where his troubleshooting leads. If anything, I have the informative guide that Vinnie_B left. Thanks bro!

To clarify what others have discussed, I can clearly hear the fuel pump prime. The car cranks, but won't turn over. I can get the car to briefly run using the clear flood method by flooring the gas while cranking. I can get the car to run for a few seconds at best this way. If the PATS was causing the problem, would it allow this to happen? Would the fuel pump even prime?

I have not yet checked for spark. The previous owner installed new coils and plugs. Is there an easy method to verify their operation?

I thought the cam or crank sensor could be the culprit, but according to BlackStan g00, the car will apparently still run with them being bad. I have no codes pertaining to either.

Anyhow, I'll post an update after the locksmith is done. Thanks all for everything so far. I really want her to run again. Sigh.

 

[BlackStang00]

With a bad crank sensor it won’t run, only a bad cam sensor. Also pats will allow the fuel pump to prime, it just won’t pulse the injectors. Vinnie would know better than me about that though.

 

[Vinnie_B]

With a bad crank sensor it won’t run, only a bad cam sensor. Also pats will allow the fuel pump to prime, it just won’t pulse the injectors. Vinnie would know better than me about that though.

The PATS system has as prove out process it must go thru as @hotcobra03 posted. If it does prove out and cranks but no start than it's not the PATS system. But if it doesn't prove out , it will allow starter to engage and turn over the motor but that's it. You are correct @BlackStang00. Before a start condition is allowed it has to go thru the PATS module. If it isn't happy. No start!

 

[Fixxer]

Update: I primed the fuel pump and checked for fuel at the test port. There was fuel there. Next, I pulled a spark plug wire to check for spark. As my wife cranked the car, it started! (With one plug disconnected, no less) I have no idea how that happened. I tried starting it a few times afterwards, and it runs. I’m happy it runs, but I didn’t find any “smoking gun”. Don’t know what to think of that.

 

[Vinnie_B]

Update: I primed the fuel pump and checked for fuel at the test port. There was fuel there. Next, I pulled a spark plug wire to check for spark. As my wife cranked the car, it started! (With one plug disconnected, no less) I have no idea how that happened. I tried starting it a few times afterwards, and it runs. I’m happy it runs, but I didn’t find any “smoking gun”. Don’t know what to think of that.

First... Congrats on getting it running. I think we can rule out a PATS issue at this point as I assume I was wrong thinking the no start was a PATS related issue. How and why it started is the question that still needs addressing, obvious there is still an issue somewhere in your Fuel, Spark or possible a bad ground somewhere.

 

[hotcobra03]

Awesome,,

When I was reading no start test from following flow chart

1996 test said for distributor less ignition see step a 20,,

Yet this still talked about pip and spout.

Google says you have a 32 valve 4.6 ..

Can you confirm engine

 

[Fixxer]

4.6 4V modular

 

[Fixxer]

So, the locksmith had to order another ignition cylinder, because the one the previous owner gave me didn’t fit well. The ignition cylinder was definitely broken, though. When the new ignition cylinder arrives, he will key it to my original key, and program a spare. Car still starts and runs, which is awesome, but I still don’t know what caused the problem in the first place. Got fuel, got spark. I dunno. Thanks for everything so far, people. I appreciate it. I don’t think this story is over, though.

 

[Vinnie_B]

So, the locksmith had to order another ignition cylinder, because the one the previous owner gave me didn’t fit well. The ignition cylinder was definitely broken, though. When the new ignition cylinder arrives, he will key it to my original key, and program a spare. Car still starts and runs, which is awesome, but I still don’t know what caused the problem in the first place. Got fuel, got spark. I dunno. Thanks for everything so far, people. I appreciate it. I don’t think this story is over, though.

I'd go over and clean up all the grounds and reconnect securely. Start with the battery, starter and engine grounds.

Glad your running thou....

 

[BlackStang00]

Clean the maf and check for vac leaks. Also if you smelled fuel it has to be leaking into the cylinders from somewhere. Maybe leaking injectors.

 

[hotcobra03]

Repair content for 1998 Ford Mustang.PDF

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Found 1998 was 1st talk about this system.
I like just reading through these both yes side and no side just to see where they lead before touching anything,,

Like in here. Say you failed for spark test,,is says go to jd1.

Which is crank sensor,
This is a no start sensor.
Mine will start with no tps/iat connected, not sure on mass air.

Question.

Did you pull a passenger side plug/coil when you git it running?

Crank sensor wiring I think goes down that side of engine .

Wiggle test is a real test.

Some times we touch something not even knowing.

Crank sensor I got burned on working on a chevy, I was down the line on guys trying to start that truck.
All along it was Crank sensor
When pulled out found it was cracked and was moving. Causing intermittenting signal

Also was issue on my friends junk 08 dodge car. Crank sensor was intermittent

 

[Fixxer]

I'd go over and clean up all the grounds and reconnect securely. Start with the battery, starter and engine grounds.

Glad your running thou....

That's part of the plan. Thank you!

 

[Fixxer]

Clean the maf and check for vac leaks. Also if you smelled fuel it has to be leaking into the cylinders from somewhere. Maybe leaking injectors.

I'll check into that. PO replaced the MAF, along with a new alternator, battery, and TP sensor. i figured the fuel smell was from cranking without ignition, and my cobra doesn't have any cats. I'll check into that, though. Thanks!

 

[Fixxer]

Repair content for 1998 Ford Mustang.PDF

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Found 1998 was 1st talk about this system.
I like just reading through these both yes side and no side just to see where they lead before touching anything,,

Like in here. Say you failed for spark test,,is says go to jd1.

Which is crank sensor,
This is a no start sensor.
Mine will start with no tps/iat connected, not sure on mass air.

Question.

Did you pull a passenger side plug/coil when you git it running?

Crank sensor wiring I think goes down that side of engine .

Wiggle test is a real test.

Some times we touch something not even knowing.

Crank sensor I got burned on working on a chevy, I was down the line on guys trying to start that truck.
All along it was Crank sensor
When pulled out found it was cracked and was moving. Causing intermittenting signal

Also was issue on my friends junk 08 dodge car. Crank sensor was intermittent

I pulled a driver's side plug when I did the test. Good thing is a have a new Motorcraft cam and crank sensor that I will be installing soon. Thanks!

 

[Vinnie_B]

If this problem comes up again here is a check list for your to work off off to help isolate this issue. This is everything that would cause a no start:


Im thinking it would be wise to go over and validate the below are in good working condition:

Fuel:

Check for fuel contamination/quality.
Check fuel filter.
Check for restricted fuel lines.
Check for correct fuel pressure.

Ignition:

Inspect spark plugs and plug wires.
Check ignition switch.
Check ignition coil for voltage.
Inspect ICM for damage.
Check for presence of anti-theft devices.

Power and Grounds:

Check for low battery voltage.
Check starter and starter circuit for voltage.
Inspect electrical connections, wires, and harnesses

Air and Vacuum:

Check vacuum lines for leaks, blockage or wear.
Check air intake system.

Also Check:

Check EGR valve stuck open.
Check for moisture entry into PCM.
Check camshaft timing and cylinder compression.
Check for restricted exhaust.

 

[JeffsLightning]

How many miles are on the car?

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[hotcobra03]

How To Test The Crankshaft Position Sensor (Ford 4.6L, 5.4L)

How to test the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor on 4.6L, 5.4L Ford. Multimeter test, no Scan Tool required. Crank Sensor Test. Testing the 4.6L, 5.4L Ford 2 wire CKP Sensor.

troubleshootmyvehicle.com

Test before just throwing parts.

I used this for learning these cobras ,,
My warranty ran out months after purchase,,
I was a first timer..

18yrs I've replaced head ,pulled engine,clutch, rebuild rear gears, all in the driveway.

Had all the basic issues, no start,no charging, fine when parked now won't stay running till warm,
Hard to shift ,spits and sputters

Hand full of 02 codes.

Service manual is gold for the rest ,,but written for a trained tech

It's actually easy,,just alot of reading.and lots of questions

 

[Fixxer]

If this problem comes up again here is a check list for your to work off off to help isolate this issue. This is everything that would cause a no start:


Im thinking it would be wise to go over and validate the below are in good working condition:

Fuel:

Check for fuel contamination/quality.
Check fuel filter.
Check for restricted fuel lines.
Check for correct fuel pressure.

Ignition:

Inspect spark plugs and plug wires.
Check ignition switch.
Check ignition coil for voltage.
Inspect ICM for damage.
Check for presence of anti-theft devices.

Power and Grounds:

Check for low battery voltage.
Check starter and starter circuit for voltage.
Inspect electrical connections, wires, and harnesses

Air and Vacuum:

Check vacuum lines for leaks, blockage or wear.
Check air intake system.

Also Check:

Check EGR valve stuck open.
Check for moisture entry into PCM.
Check camshaft timing and cylinder compression.
Check for restricted exhaust.

Thanks Vinnie! Will do.

 

[Fixxer]

How many miles are on the car?

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

106,000 miles

 

[Fixxer]

How To Test The Crankshaft Position Sensor (Ford 4.6L, 5.4L)

How to test the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor on 4.6L, 5.4L Ford. Multimeter test, no Scan Tool required. Crank Sensor Test. Testing the 4.6L, 5.4L Ford 2 wire CKP Sensor.

troubleshootmyvehicle.com

Test before just throwing parts.

I used this for learning these cobras ,,
My warranty ran out months after purchase,,
I was a first timer..

18yrs I've replaced head ,pulled engine,clutch, rebuild rear gears, all in the driveway.

Had all the basic issues, no start,no charging, fine when parked now won't stay running till warm,
Hard to shift ,spits and sputters

Hand full of 02 codes.

Service manual is gold for the rest ,,but written for a trained tech

It's actually easy,,just alot of reading.and lots of questions

I hear you about the service manual. That was one of the first things I bought for the car. I’ve been doing a lot of reading, searching the forums, and watching videos. A learning process, for sure.