1996 Cobra no start

[Fixxer]

Hi all,

My 96 has developed a no-start condition. I have performed the following, and the problem still persists:

Checked all fuses with multimeter. All good.
Checked inertia switch in trunk. Button pressed down.
Pulled codes. The only code present was a P0412 code which was there before this problem started. (Secondary air pump problem)
Ruled out PATS as a issue by observing that the "THEFT" light was NOT coming on during cranking. (Correction: It *does* come one while cranking*)
The car briefly starts when going into "Clear flood" by holding the gas pedal to the floor when cranking. The car will fire, run for a few seconds, then cut out. I did this twice with this method. From my understanding, PATS will not allow this to occur. True?
Disconnected both battery cables for 10 minutes, then reconnected. No change.
I performed a visual inspection to check for any loose or unconnected wiring connections. None found.
I have not changed or added anything before the problem started. I did clean the engine a week ago, but I drove the car afterwards with no issues. The car had been running well up until this weekend, when I discovered it wouldn't start.

I have ordered a cam position sensor and a crankshaft position sensor from LMR that I will install next.

Does anyone have any other ideas I may have missed? Thanks so much for any advice! Most of the things I have done were found on this forum.

Mahalo again!

Steve

 

[Fixxer]

Anything else I can check if the new cam/crank sensors do not solve the problem?
I hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key, and the gas smell is pretty intense afterwards. (No cats)
Thanks for any advice!

Steve

 

[BlackStang00]

Have you checked your fuel pressure or at least the fpr? It sounds like it’s flooding for whatever reason. When you washed it did you use a hose or pressure washer?

 

[Fixxer]

No, I didn't. That's something I will look into, thanks!
I used a hose. Nothing directed at electrical components, and no pressure washer.
If the FPR was suspect, would there be fuel at the vacuum port?

 

[BlackStang00]

If the diaphragm is torn yes it could have fuel in the line.

 

[Fixxer]

Couple of things I noticed today: The part of my ignition switch that you turn to start the car will spin entirely around without stopping. You have to line it up so you can insert the key. Secondly, I noticed that the "THEFT" light blinks while cranking. Is this indicative of a PATS issue? If so, how would one go about correcting it? Do I need a new ignition switch? Would the new keys have to be programmed to the car? Thanks!

 

[BlackStang00]

It sounds like a bad ignition cylinder. It can be replaced but the new key will need to be programmed. And yes that sounds like a pats issue. Pats cuts the injector pulse though I thought.

Anyway, drop the steering column shroud and make sure the ignition switch is good as well as all the wiring.

 

[ccq8le]

I agree with this sounds like a pats issue. I have had an issue in my 96 and it would fire for a breif moment before turning off. I was using a duplicate key that was set up by a hardware store machine that worked for a while. Than one day it just quit when I was out at the store. I got my oem key and it worked fine.

As far as getting new keys programmed I reached out to the Ford dealer and they still are able to program these cars. I don't have any advice to another way, but you may have someone chime in or search it some more, as the dealer is $$$

Keep us posted

Sent from my SM-G991U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[BlackStang00]

I believe Forscan can do it but with the way things are with Russia and the program being Russian I’d say it’s not looking good to get a license for it lol.

 

[Fixxer]

Thanks so much for the replies! I have a replacement ignition cylinder on hand with 2 keys. Could a decent locksmith be able to program the keys even though the car is not currently able to start? I have one known good key. I've heard that the PATS can be "fooled" by having the good working key near the ignition cylinder while using the new unprogrammed keys to start the car. True?
So, for clarification, should I pursue the issue with the ignition cylinder/PATS first before trying anything else?
I could get the car to briefly start for a few seconds using "Clear flood". (Pushing accelerator all the way to the floor while cranking) Would PATS allow this to happen?
Again, thank you for all the help. I'm running out of options to try before throwing in the towel and taking her to a shop. I appreciate it.

 

[BlackStang00]

Might as well start there since it’ll need to be replaced anyway.

 

[Fixxer]

I have a locksmith coming by this weekend to replace the ignition switch and program my extra keys. He claims to have knowledge of the PATS system used on our cars and will be able to tell if that's the cause of my issue. We shall see...
Thanks again for all the advice and recommendations so far!

 

[Fixxer]

I will follow up on this after the locksmith has done his work. On a side note, I got my new Motorcraft Cam and Crank sensors in today. If the new ignition cylinder fails to start the car, I will be replacing these next. I figure I'll start with the Cam sensor and go from there.

 

[BlackStang00]

Don’t bother with the cam sensor, it’ll still run without a cam signal. And if it was the crank sensor it would throw a code for erratic or no pip. They’re easy enough to replace but I don’t think either are the issue.

 

[hotcobra03]

Have you tested for power and a signal on coil or injector?
Easy steps .

Jmo. Being car will crank over with key you have now,,pats isn't on my list.

 

[Vinnie_B]

I suspect a PATS issue @Fixxer Its very possible it could be in the ignition. But there are also many other PATS related possibilities try this.


NOTE: This quick test quickly provides the capability to identify a shorted to ground condition for the door lock cylinder switches, hood switch, ignition lock anti-theft switch or the associated circuits.

Perform the following anti-theft, on-board diagnostic test as follows:

Turn ignition switch to ACCESSORY. If the THEFT indicator lamp comes on solid for 10 seconds, service the ignition lock anti-theft switch and/or Circuit 936 (DG/W).

**Activate power door UNLOCK button five times within 10 seconds.
**Count the number of flashes of the anti-theft warning indicator lamp (repeats every 10 seconds). **Refer to table for results and action to take.

NOTE: Diagnostic mode will automatically cancel after two minutes or by turning key to OFF.



Number of Flashes : 1-4 Action To Take

1- Door lock cylinder switches and hood switch inputs normal.
2- Door lock cylinder switch input shorted. Service door lock cylinder switches and/or Circuit 25 (DG/P).
3- Hood switch/luggage compartment tamper switch input shorted. Service hood switch and/or luggage lock cylinder switch and/or Circuit 23 (T/LG).
4- Both inputs shorted. Service door lock cylinder switches and/or Circuit 25 (DG/P). Service hood switch and/or luggage compartment lock cylinder switch and/or Circuit 23 (T/LG).



Lightning FastElectrical Automotive Repair LLC
PM Me or [email protected]
Remote or Local (On Site) Technical Repair

 

[hotcobra03]

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

Vehicle Enabling​

For normal vehicle protection proveout and vehicle enabling to occur, the THEFT indicator must proveout as follows:

• Normal operating proveout on theft indicator is two seconds: ON then OFF after the ignition switch has been turned from OFF to RUN/START position. This vehicle can be started.
• If normal two second proveout occurs and engine cranks for more than one second after ignition switch is turned to START position but fails to start, the fault is not with the passive vehicle protection system.

 

[Vinnie_B]

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

Vehicle Enabling​

For normal vehicle protection proveout and vehicle enabling to occur, the THEFT indicator must proveout as follows:

• Normal operating proveout on theft indicator is two seconds: ON then OFF after the ignition switch has been turned from OFF to RUN/START position. This vehicle can be started.
• If normal two second proveout occurs and engine cranks for more than one second after ignition switch is turned to START position but fails to start, the fault is not with the passive vehicle protection system.

According to comment #6 PATS is blinking while cranking. Not Normal! Good info thou @hotcobra03 ! I'm sticking with a PATS issue until proven wrong.

 

[hotcobra03]

According to comment #6 PATS is blinking while cranking. Not Normal! Good info thou @hotcobra03 ! I'm sticking with a PATS issue until proven wrong.

I'm going off post 1. Car cranks over.
Post 2.

I hear fuel pump prime.

But don't see any actual test on engine sensors other than fuses

 

[Vinnie_B]

I'm going off post 1. Car cranks over.
Post 2.

I hear fuel pump prime.

But don't see any actual test on engine sensors other than fuses

Ok I see @hotcobra03 ! Well... the more options and point of views that we all can share with him the better, hopefully this gentleman can get his cobra up and running. It's all that matters. Were just trying to help!! More the help the better I see it!!