1993 4-cyl. To v8 302 swap, eye candy! ;)

[Mnstr50]

For those following along, the T5 swap is done. The heater core was also replaced at the same time. I managed to get the car back on the rollers before leaving Phoenix, and it put down 235rwhp, 277rwtq. Still seems low for the build to me, but this is still through a stock air-box, stock belt-driven components, and some crap stock-cats. I say they're crap, because the car didn't pass emissions prior to the re-tune (which was the motivation for the tune). I'll have to get a replacement mid-pipe with cats on it to pass emissions and hopefully there-after I'll get a MAC pro-chamber, or bassani x-pipe. I'm also looking to get an electric fan with a 130amp 3G alternator mod. I'm hoping the combination free's up some power.

The 4.10's free fine with the t5, I was a bit worried at first that 1st and 2nd gear would be useless, but that's not the case. The motor has a decent power band, and we set the rev-limiter (in the tune) to 6,400rpm. She spins up nice and quick right now.

 

[Mnstr50]

I know it's been a long time, but I figured I'd hop in and mention the latest;

Replaced the rear cats and passed emissions

Rebuilt the T5 with billet keys on 3-4, carbon syncos and ATF fluid.

Went with a fidanza alloy flywheel, added a Steeda tri-ax shifter.

Installed a MAC prochamber, installed underdrive pullies, installed shorter belt to bypass the airpump, and without any changes to the tune, she put down

265rwhp, 300rwtq!

Still have the mechanical cooling fan and HD clutch. Upgraded to a 3G alternator and harness in preparation of an electric fan.

 

[Mnstr50]

here are the dyno graphs that I forgot to post, this was without any adjustments to the tune, and the only modifications being the MAC prochamber and the underdrive pulleys;

 

[Mnstr50]

So here is the most recent evolution of this car, after running the car with NGK TR55 copper plugs with the standard gap of .054 for the previous dyno runs, I decided to get a little more creative with making power. I've had a handful of supercharged cars, but it's time for something different. After some research, I figured it was time to play with nitrous! I purchased a ZEX black out kit (82023B), which is universal kit for v8 cars, and I decided to set it up for a 100-shot. The reason why I decided on this particular kit is because it's the most straight forward, and it uses the TPS position for WOT. This makes install a lot easier in my opinion and allows for the kit to be "hidden" (more on that later). My learning curve with nitrous only took about a night, as I realized that bottle pressure is CRITICAL for optimal performance of the nitrous system. For this reason I decided to get ZEX's "tuner kit" which includes a purge solenoid (not installed) a blow down tube (not yet installed) and the bottle heater. I installed the bottle heater (with is thermally controlled) and it seemed to take 30-45min to get the bottle pressure to 800-psi (optimal operating pressure s 1000psi, the standard solenoids on this system will "lock" if more than 1100psi is applied, but manipulating the pressure can result in a harder "hit"). Even with only 800-psi I was able to get a race with a 2012 Camaro SS. We did three pulls from a rolling start (as 4.10's, 225 series tires are useless from a dig) and I handed the guy his rear-end all three times!! He wasn't too happy with the loss, and he hand no idea I was on the bottle! lol, After the race, I contacted ZEX about the bottle heater, and I ended up getting a pressure controlled bottle heater (after also hearing some of the trouble other people had with the standard heater). The pressure controlled heater is much quicker to get the bottle to temperature, and it's on a switch (875psi on, 1000psi off) which can get adjusted up to 1150psi (I believe) Here are some pictures of my install;

The C&L elbow was added two weeks ago, but I had the nitrous plumbed into the stock rubber elbow prior to this, and it was a total sleeper look.

you have to look HARD to see the solenoid (black box) hidden right behind the stock airbox.

notice both the position of the nozzle, but also the TPS signal wire, which I covered in wire loop;

the arming switch and the bottle heater switch are both tucked high on the kick panel, and not easily visible from even a driving position;

here is the bottle, with the heater wrapped around it, and the pressure gauge (excuse the wires currently, ran out of loom) ;

here is the pressure switch, and if you look hard enough you can see the relay mounted to the "cross brace" behind the rear seats;

here is how I switch between the nitrous and the NA tunes on the SCT chip

No dyno runs on the nitrous. I switched the spark plugs to TR6 NGK coppers, that are a heat range cooler than stock, with a standard gap of .034

 

[SVTORANGE]

Nice :beer:

 

[Mnstr50]

Stay tuned for notchback version 2.0 coming soon1

 

[crazycarlo]

That's awesome man. Love this build. Any info on version 2?

 

[SVTORANGE]

Should be good:burnout:

 

[Mnstr50]

It's never enough power, right? So, I'm going for more, but retaining the budget build idea. I haven't been able to find much info on just a cam'ed 351w with the gt40 heads, but that's exactly what I'll be doing. I wanted a lightning lower, but people were asking way too much. Especially since Id have to ported it after buying it. I got my hands on a Trickflow R package for the 351w instead and I will be running a comp nitrous grind cam. Same heads as now, shorties, same TB, and accessories. I plan to get a mild steel UPR k-member while I'm at it (to shave some weight) and feed the stock bottom end with 100-175shot of nitrous. The bottom end will only get a set of rings properly gapped for nitrous. ARP heads studs and Cometic gaskets, standard oil pump, and hardened oil pump driveshaft.

 

[SVTORANGE]

:coolman:

 

[crazycarlo]

Nice man sounds good. Ill be doing something of the same later on. Right now it'll just be a GT40 302. I'd imagine maybe with the 351 you'd be seeing 320 rwhp. Most ppl with the gt40 setup in a 302 see between 260-280 rwhp.

 

[Mnstr50]

I think you're right, but the cam profile I will be using in the 351w will be more aggressive than the F303 in the current 302. I would "still" be happy with 310-320rwhp out of a stock (low compression) bottom end 351W. Hoping the extra cubes will also result in a nice bump in torque. The intake manifold will also be an improvement and something I can grow into, but I hope it doesn't hurt the power under the curve.

 

[crazycarlo]

I've heard a lot of people say that a stock stroke and cubed 351 will make around the same power as a 347 stroker atleast HP wise. I'm with you there is no replacement for displacement haha. I hope to do a 351 swap in my car eventually. Maybe a 408.

Isn't that R intake a high RPM intake? Have you thought about a victor jr EFI style intake? Also what cam are you using? I wanted to use the XE270HR in my car and from doing my research you need really good springs for the Gt40's because of the cam lobes ramp rates.

 

[Mnstr50]

Dude, I've thought out the valve train on these heads before doing the v8 conversion. I'm running titanium retains, and 130# seat pressure on the springs, Crane (Cobra) roller rockers, the 302 spins to 6,500 without much effort (especially with the 4.10's, alloy flywheel, and underdrive pulley). The cam I am going to use for the 351W is as follows:

Comp Cams NX282HR

the profile is 232/244 at .050" on a 114 LSA this is the biggest nitrous cam Comp offers off the shelf for the EFI 5.0. It should work well on the 351W. Keep in mind, the plan is to run at least 125-shot up to 175 shot.

I got a good deal on the trickflow R intake, and honestly, it's the intake I would have preferred so I can grow into it down the road. Per Fox Lake Racing, the lower flows 350cfm out of the box. They offer two uppers; one for a 75mm TB and another for a 90MM TB. At $800/new, I'm not particular anxious to try anything else (I can't believe how pricey these things have gotten over the years).

Pipe dream plans call for a 408 stroker with appropriate heads, but this combo "might" crack 500rwhp on the gas? I'm not sure, but plenty to knock off low 11's or high 10's with the right tire and suspension.

 

[crazycarlo]

Yeah man that's awesome I'm anxious to see how it does. Your motor deff sounds like something I'd want to do. Keep us updated.

 

[Mnstr50]

I'll update this thread as I progress. The parts are trickling in, so hopefully sooner than later. I'll get the car on the rollers after I wrap everything up and get figures for what it's making with the 351w bottom end and cam. I am currently running equal length shorties, and will be going to MAC's unequals, so I'm curious to know if that will cost me anything? But a 175-shot should put me "at" or close to 500rwhp I suppose. Torque should be solid too.

 

[Mnstr50]

Just a few updates on this slowly evolving project; I decided to get rid of the FLowmasters that were on the car for a set of walker turbo mufflers. The muffler shop that does all my work insisted they'd be only marginally louder than the stock mufflers that came on these cars. This car is a true daily driver, and the drone was starting to kill me. The cats are off the car, and I have an off-road MAC pro-chamber, and I know the lack of cats is also resulting in more noise. I was seeing 90+db easy with the flows, but the turbos cut about 5-8 db from the equation. After that, I decided to ditch the 4.10's. Somehow, I've ended up driving this car from AZ to CA a lot and the 4.10's just spin the engine to high for the amount of driving I'm doing. I love the 4.10's are won't get rid of them if I was consistently in one city with occasional highway driving. My decision was the 3.27's from FRPP. I would have gone with the 3.08's, but I figured the 3.27's was a decent compromise. Once the 351w is in the car, it should make up for any "seat of the pants" loss. The power is still present, but the engine is more relaxed on the highway in top gear, which was the plan.

 

[SVTORANGE]

Enjoy your rideepper:

 

[Chris71Mach1]

I don't care if this thread IS starting to age, this is damned near exactly what I'm wanting to do one of these days. I'd probably go with a Procharged 408 running a good AOD transmission (though I have no idea what the ideal choice would be for something that would hold plenty of power plus stand the test of time would be). My big question here is how feasible is it to do a 4cyl to V8 conversion on a Fox Body car without the donor that most people so strongly recommend? The whole reason to do this conversion is that the V8 cars are getting more and more scarce, and if we want a V8 notchback anymore, the conversion is the way to go (not to mention the incredible sense of accomplishment that must come from building a car like this).

Thanks for posting your progress thus far Mnstr50, and I hope the car's been coming along well in the last 6 months!

 

[SVTORANGE]

:banana: