1969 Olds 442

evn62719

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I’ve been kicking around the idea of buying my dad a car and I stumbled across this one today. I don’t know a whole lot about classic cars in general so I was hoping somebody could look at it and let me know if there was something glaringly obvious wrong with it. Anything specific I should look out for or questions I should be asking? I contacted the dealership tonight and if all goes well my wife and I will fly down next week to check out. TIA
https://www.autosportofpb.com/details/used-1969-oldsmobile-442/62551472
 

7998

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I’ve been kicking around the idea of buying my dad a car and I stumbled across this one today. I don’t know a whole lot about classic cars in general so I was hoping somebody could look at it and let me know if there was something glaringly obvious wrong with it. Anything specific I should look out for or questions I should be asking? I contacted the dealership tonight and if all goes well my wife and I will fly down next week to check out. TIA
https://www.autosportofpb.com/details/used-1969-oldsmobile-442/62551472

Interior looks a little rough. The paint looks good. With any classic you will want to hire an expert to inspect it in person to make sure it's not a twisted bondo jet. I'm curious as to why there are no under hood shots or under carriage. You'll also want a picture of the fender tag.
 

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Does he like 442s? Does he prefer an auto vs. 4-speed? The interior is worn pretty well, so would he be happy with that and can he afford to upgrade some of the interior pieces to freshen it up?

It still wears the factory wheels, which is nice.

Other than the interior (and the mileage not stated, of course) and not having engine bay photos, you'd have to look it over pretty well. It lacks the ram-air optioned hood (see photo below) which is probably preferred by most. But not a game changer. Nothing really glaring stands out, but don't assume it is 100% issue free until you do that CLOSE inspection, including the engine and transmission.

Does it have the optional disk brakes (single-piston caliper)?

1969-oldsmobile-442-models.jpg
 

evn62719

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Interior looks a little rough. The paint looks good. With any classic you will want to hire an expert to inspect it in person to make sure it's not a twisted bondo jet. I'm curious as to why there are no under hood shots or under carriage. You'll also want a picture of the fender tag.

I did ask for some engine bay and trunk pictures in the email I sent.

Does he like 442s? Does he prefer an auto vs. 4-speed? The interior is worn pretty well, so would he be happy with that and can he afford to upgrade some of the interior pieces to freshen it up?

It still wears the factory wheels, which is nice.

Other than the interior (and the mileage not stated, of course) and not having engine bay photos, you'd have to look it over pretty well. It lacks the ram-air optioned hood (see photo below) which is probably preferred by most. But not a game changer. Nothing really glaring stands out, but don't assume it is 100% issue free until you do that CLOSE inspection, including the engine and transmission.

Does it have the optional disk brakes (single-piston caliper)?


View attachment 1704700

He does like 442’s and I think the auto will be easier on him because he’s almost 70 and going through radiation treatments at the moment. He can afford to freshen it up and I hope to help him work on it also. I’ll have to ask about the brakes, that’s a good question.
 

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Does he like 442s? Does he prefer an auto vs. 4-speed? The interior is worn pretty well, so would he be happy with that and can he afford to upgrade some of the interior pieces to freshen it up?

It still wears the factory wheels, which is nice.

Other than the interior (and the mileage not stated, of course) and not having engine bay photos, you'd have to look it over pretty well. It lacks the ram-air optioned hood (see photo below) which is probably preferred by most. But not a game changer. Nothing really glaring stands out, but don't assume it is 100% issue free until you do that CLOSE inspection, including the engine and transmission.

Does it have the optional disk brakes (single-piston caliper)?

View attachment 1704700


Thats because this is a 1969 and so the only ram air option was the twin snorkel scoops that was under the bumper where the headlights are for the W-30 package, but this isn't a W-30. The twin hood like you posted the only one to have anything like it was the Hurst Olds in 1969. 1970 is when the W-30 ramair scoops was moved to the top of the then new fiberglass hood for Olds A bodies for that year and 1971 and 72. 73 the A bodies got a complete redesign.
 
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SecondhandSnake

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Nothing major I can think of to look for on them. I've got a 68 and a 70. The drivetrain is pretty bulletproof, suspension is pretty simple. All standard GM stuff. Just have to do your due diligence with classics like that, check VIN and engine codes, make sure everything matches, at least if that's your kind of thing. Rust and wiring are big things to look for on cars that old. Look at the usual spots, lower fenders, lower quarters, rockers, exhaust, battery tray. Make sure all the lights and features work.
 

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View attachment 1704748

That's because this is a 1969 and so the only ram air option was the twin snorkel scoops that was under the bumper where the headlights are for the W-30 package, but this isn't a W-30. The twin hood like you posted the only one to have anything like it was the Hurst Olds in 1969. 1970 is when the W-30 ramair scoops was moved to the top of the then new fiberglass hood for Olds A bodies for that year and 1971 and 72. 73 the A bodies got a complete redesign.
You are correct. That photo I posted was a '70. The '69 Hurst/Olds package was one of the most menacing looks of any '69 muscle car.
1969-oldsmobile-442-hurst-olds.jpg
 

CobraBob

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Nothing major I can think of to look for on them. I've got a 68 and a 70. The drivetrain is pretty bulletproof, suspension is pretty simple. All standard GM stuff. Just have to do your due diligence with classics like that, check VIN and engine codes, make sure everything matches, at least if that's your kind of thing. Rust and wiring are big things to look for on cars that old. Look at the usual spots, lower fenders, lower quarters, rockers, exhaust, battery tray. Make sure all the lights and features work.
Good post!

Having someone look the car over who is well versed in older muscle cars is a big plus. But if the OP can't do that, making a detailed list of things to check will help evaluate it before pulling the trigger. A good inspector, though, is really recommended. Here's a good article I found that points that out.

"Use an Inspector Whenever You Can
When you’re buying from a dealer or private seller, and have the possibility of bringing in an inspector to look at the car, it really behooves you to do so.

An inspector acts as a second set of eyes that will make sure the car is exactly as described in the dealer’s sales literature or private owner’s claims. An inspector also functions as an important reality check: reining in your emotions is important to make sure you’re not overcome with the excitement of getting a classic car and end up with an overpriced toy needing more work and money than you’re comfortable with.

To find a good inspector, ask for recommendations at local car clubs or classic car dealers. Another option is calling a restoration shop that specializes in the car you are buying and hire them to do the inspection. Even if the shop can’t do it, they may be able to suggest someone who could.

In addition to hiring an inspector, you will also be well served by taking the car to a mechanic who can make sure it runs correctly too."
 

CobraBob

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Here's a decent list of questions to ask a seller. Not all of these will pertain to the 4-4-2 you're looking at, but it's a good list. I added a few things to it. VIN check is mandatory, of course.

Questions to Ask the Seller
  • Car year/make/model
  • Owner’s name, phone number and email address
  • Does the car have a clean title?
  • What’s the mileage?
  • How long have you owned it?
  • Why are you selling it?
  • Has it ever been in an accident that you know of? If yes, please describe what happened and when, and how it was fixed.
  • Is the car currently registered and insured?
  • Is it inspected? Can I bring someone to thoroughly inspect it? Can it be inspected on a lift?
  • Can it be test driven?
  • Does it have any warning lamps lit on the dash like a “check engine” light?
  • Is anything wrong with the car that could keep it from passing inspection?
  • Is there any serious rust (holes etc.)? Frame? Body? Floors? Rockers? Trunk?
  • How is the paint? Are there any major scratches, areas that are peeling or other paint defects? Has the car been repainted? If yes, when?
  • Are there any dings or dents in the body?
  • Have there been any body repairs of dents or rust using primarily body filler?
  • What size engine does it have?
  • Are there any engine issues? Does it start easily? Idle smoothly? Accelerate normally? Make any odd noises? Smoke from the tail pipes?
  • What transmission does it have? Are there any transmission issues? Does it shift normally? Does it make any odd noises?
  • Are there any differential issues? Does it make any odd noises?
  • Is the car dry underneath or are there leaks? Coolant? Engine oil? Transmission fluid? Brake fluid? Power steering fluid? Differential?
  • When was the exhaust system last replaced? Does it need to be replaced? Any leaks?
  • Does the suspension need any work? Shocks? Ball joints? Springs? Bushings? Steering system?
  • Are the brakes drums or discs? How are the brakes? When was the last brake job?
  • How are the tires? Wear? Dry rot? Damage? Age?
  • Does the car drive normally around town and at highway speeds? No vibrations? No pulling? No odd noises?
  • Does the A/C work (if equipped)? If not, do you know why?
  • What on the car doesn’t work?
  • What work was done to the car recently?
  • Has the water pump ever been replaced? If so, when?
  • Has the timing chain (or belt depending upon the car) ever been replaced? If so, when?
  • Has there ever been any major mechanical work? Engine? Trans? Rear? Suspension? Electrical system?
  • How is the interior? What is the condition of the: Seats? Dash? Door panels? Headliner? Carpet? Console? Any cracks, tears, burn marks, or stains?
  • Do the power accessories work? Windows? Seat? Etc.
  • Any cracks or large nicks in the windshield?
  • Can you email me additional photos (if needed)? Front and rear exterior (outside in daylight), each side exterior (outside in daylight), engine bay, engine overall, interior overall, trunk, chassis (if possible).
 

M91196

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You could spend weeks learning about 1969 442’s and their quirks.

If you jump on Hagertys site and do quick valuation you’ll see they selling it at a number 4 value, a driver.


If your looking to get the nicest car for 20K(or your budget) I would go on a learning frenzy and then spend your money with a private party seller and pay someone qualified to inspect it, you’ll get a lot more quality and bang for your buck.

They made lots of these cars that are affordable.

And welcome to world of the orphan A bodies(non Chevelle)
c6f441aa80741d1f54b3ed23ac649b24.jpg
 

evn62719

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Thanks for the replies but I’m fairly certain that car already sold. Looking back through that dealers inventory, they have two listings for that same car and the other one says sold. The search continues.

I found this 68 Lemans today. It’s only a 2 barrel 350 but I don’t think he’ll mind and it looks really clean. Also doesn’t have power brakes. How big of a pain is that?
Used 1968 Pontiac Lemans for Sale in Ashland KY 41101 Big Blue Discount Auto Sales, Inc. Ashland

Or this 68 GTO that I’m leaning towards. Looks like there’s a few rust spots on the deck lid/rear quarter panel and on the hood so I asked for some close up pictures of those areas. If I can get them down to 22k I think it would be a decent deal. E82324F5-36E8-4D10-9C19-10B65856F6A6.jpeg E82324F5-36E8-4D10-9C19-10B65856F6A6.jpeg 5BB2D7A9-0A3C-4998-A7BF-D75A14E1B3B6.jpeg B2021D8C-D403-4963-9929-151BE19F2D22.jpeg 92EB5E9E-DB93-44E6-91FF-FAD03FF045E7.jpeg B93CA2AD-313F-4DD8-8936-54FDE9565A2F.jpeg
 

SecondhandSnake

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Thanks for the replies but I’m fairly certain that car already sold. Looking back through that dealers inventory, they have two listings for that same car and the other one says sold. The search continues.

I found this 68 Lemans today. It’s only a 2 barrel 350 but I don’t think he’ll mind and it looks really clean. Also doesn’t have power brakes. How big of a pain is that?
Used 1968 Pontiac Lemans for Sale in Ashland KY 41101 Big Blue Discount Auto Sales, Inc. Ashland

Or this 68 GTO that I’m leaning towards. Looks like there’s a few rust spots on the deck lid/rear quarter panel and on the hood so I asked for some close up pictures of those areas. If I can get them down to 22k I think it would be a decent deal.

Man those are tempting even me...

The trunk rust reminded me. Make sure to check for rust between the inner support and the outer skin. That's where it starts and by the time you see it on the outside it's way too late, the whole section is gone. Easy to replace, but still something to be mindful of. And in the trunk pull the weather seal to see if that channel is rotted.

On old cars check for water leaks. Most of them need a new window seal.

And another trick not just limited to old cars, but good to check- do the magnet trick on the body panels. If the metal is rotted out and they covered it in fiberglass, or if they buried a dent in tons of filler, the magnet won't stick.
 

M91196

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If your looking at GTO’s or any Pontiac pay the $85 and get the history and billing info from Pontiac Historical Services.

Pontiac’s are extremely well documented and the info could save a lot of heartburn

22K could be a great deal if that car was an original 2 barrel column shifted GTO with the original engine, carb and trans.


25K can get you a really really really fine A body if you have time.

They made 81K 1968 GTO’s, there are plenty of decent ones.

Gratuitous engine shot
8de646ad82c62214d4896b5c25f9e738.jpg
 

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Man those are tempting even me...

The trunk rust reminded me. Make sure to check for rust between the inner support and the outer skin. That's where it starts and by the time you see it on the outside it's way too late, the whole section is gone. Easy to replace, but still something to be mindful of. And in the trunk pull the weather seal to see if that channel is rotted.

On old cars check for water leaks. Most of them need a new window seal.

And another trick not just limited to old cars, but good to check- do the magnet trick on the body panels. If the metal is rotted out and they covered it in fiberglass, or if they buried a dent in tons of filler, the magnet won't stick.

Secondhandsnake: How were the heater cores on the A bodies?

If they were, the OP can check the passenger side floor below the glove box.
 

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Sorry to hear the 4-4-2 sold. Going forward, I recommend you decide now what you really want and then be patient in your search. Stick to what you really want for your dad. Now if time is of the essence, then you'll want to put 3-4 models on your preferred list. And include on the list the options that you prefer. Ie. power brakes, 4-barrel carb, 4-speed, bucket seats, console, disc front brakes, etc.

Happy continued hunting!
 

CobraBob

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If your looking at GTO’s or any Pontiac pay the $85 and get the history and billing info from Pontiac Historical Services.

Pontiac’s are extremely well documented and the info could save a lot of heartburn

22K could be a great deal if that car was an original 2 barrel column shifted GTO with the original engine, carb and trans.


25K can get you a really really really fine A body if you have time.

They made 81K 1968 GTO’s, there are plenty of decent ones.

Gratuitous engine shot
View attachment 1704898
That's a nice GTO. I see you're located in New England. Are you taking it to the Hemmings MusclePalooza at Lebanon Valley Dragway on May 30? That's always a nice show venue.
 

M91196

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That's a nice GTO. I see you're located in New England. Are you taking it to the Hemmings MusclePalooza at Lebanon Valley Dragway on May 30? That's always a nice show venue.

Bob, Not heading to the Valley as a participant, looks like I may watch a few friends in the FAST Event that runs along with Musclepooloza. That’s another rabbit hole of 14” bias ply classics running in the 10’s

OP
If your on social media join a brand group, ex-68-69 GTO has a page of its own.
I am sure Cutlass/442 and Chevelle all have them too.
You’ll see a lot of cars for sale.
 

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May I suggest Buick Skylark GS they usually are the A bodies that fly under the radar and so don't get as much traffic as the Chevy,Olds, or Pontiac offerings do and you can get everything from a 350 BSB to a 400 Buick and usually 5 to 8 thousand cheaper over the for mentioned cars and it's really the same exact car.
 

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May I suggest Buick Skylark GS they usually are the A bodies that fly under the radar and so don't get as much traffic as the Chevy,Olds, or Pontiac offerings do and you can get everything from a 350 BSB to a 400 Buick and usually 5 to 8 thousand cheaper over the for mentioned cars and it's really the same exact car.
They made a 455 too iirc.
 

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