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The Terminator
Terminator Talk
170k miles worth of different clutches
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<blockquote data-quote="P49Y-CY" data-source="post: 15824862" data-attributes="member: 10216"><p>i have been reading up on this quite a bit lately and from what i understand, each car can be different, and the flywheel being used can also have an effect, so there is no "magic number" that everyone can automatically use. several guys have reported initial success by reducing the length by about 4mm from stock for the rxt/rst.</p><p></p><p>there are several good threads that discuss this topic in-depth. but essentially what i gathered is that the key thing to strive for when first installing the clutch is to make sure there is a small amount of clearance between the pp fingers and tob when the fork is at rest. (that gap can then be fine tuned out by using the firewall adjuster.)</p><p></p><p>what you don't want, and i think that maybe i am guilty of this last time, is to have no clearance at all when first installing the clutch. in other words, you don't want to see the tob pushing in against the fingers (or even really touching them) when you first stab the transmission. then you know for sure that you will have to shorten the pivot ball.</p><p></p><p>because as the clutch wears, the fingers rise, and without any room to rise, the less clamping load it will have as it wears, and that in turn will cause the clutch to wear more and more rapidly.</p><p></p><p>ideally you want the fork to be parallel to the assy right at around the midway point of the range of motion. but since these are self-centering bearings that can move in relation to the fork, the correct end result will still be achieved even if that dimension is not exact.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="P49Y-CY, post: 15824862, member: 10216"] i have been reading up on this quite a bit lately and from what i understand, each car can be different, and the flywheel being used can also have an effect, so there is no "magic number" that everyone can automatically use. several guys have reported initial success by reducing the length by about 4mm from stock for the rxt/rst. there are several good threads that discuss this topic in-depth. but essentially what i gathered is that the key thing to strive for when first installing the clutch is to make sure there is a small amount of clearance between the pp fingers and tob when the fork is at rest. (that gap can then be fine tuned out by using the firewall adjuster.) what you don't want, and i think that maybe i am guilty of this last time, is to have no clearance at all when first installing the clutch. in other words, you don't want to see the tob pushing in against the fingers (or even really touching them) when you first stab the transmission. then you know for sure that you will have to shorten the pivot ball. because as the clutch wears, the fingers rise, and without any room to rise, the less clamping load it will have as it wears, and that in turn will cause the clutch to wear more and more rapidly. ideally you want the fork to be parallel to the assy right at around the midway point of the range of motion. but since these are self-centering bearings that can move in relation to the fork, the correct end result will still be achieved even if that dimension is not exact. [/QUOTE]
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170k miles worth of different clutches
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