'14 GT500 Stock Clutch - Better Aftermarket Alternatives?

[Jason Shivers]

Hey all, I know that I'm a few years late here but I just joined the forum. This has probably been discussed somewhere within the forum but I couldn't find it so please forgive me. My '14 500 is stock other than a K&N cold air and filter. I bought it new in October of '14 but it was shipped to me in Georgia from a dealer in Colorado. Not long after getting it (around 500 miles) Ford replaced the clutch because presumably some knuckle head or salesman wore it out on a test drive out west before I bought it. So, the clutch is a stock Ford clutch. Here's my point...damn it's a hard car to drive. I have just under 8,000 miles on it and still have a hard time taking off from a stop, especially on an incline. I stall it at least once almost every time I take her out. The clutch is crazy high AND super stiff. My understanding is that is how it's supposed to be but I would love to make it easier to enjoy. I don't race it and don't plan on any more modifications except for maybe a Stainless Works exhaust one day. She is a fair-weather, weekend car, not a trailer queen but not a daily either.. There are tons of clutch options on the market, especially at American Muscle. Does anyone have any suggestions? Or do I just need to practice more? Feel free to be brutal if I need it. Any and all experiences or suggestions are welcome. Thanks team.

Jason

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[railroad]

My 13 had a clutch help spring or over ride spring, forgot the name. This spring is located under the dash. When releasing the clutch, the spring increases the tension to push the pedal up. This makes a smooth engagement difficult, as you are experiencing.
If your clutch is good, try removing this spring, first.
There are some tricks to removing it, but can be done with minimum tools and skill.
I am sure someone will be able find the thread and post a link for the procedure.
You might find the procedure on Youtube.
good luck,

 

[Jason Shivers]

Great! Thank you, Railroad. I'm looking for information on it now. I've never heard of that. Yes, hopefully someone will pop up with some details or point me somewhere. Again, thanks a ton!

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[68gtscode]

You should post this in the 13-14 GT500 section. I think you’d likely get additional input from those with similar cars… Mist here are coyote owners. Good luck!

 

[me32]

Moved to correct section

 

[Norton]

My 13 had a clutch help spring or over ride spring, forgot the name. This spring is located under the dash. When releasing the clutch, the spring increases the tension to push the pedal up. This makes a smooth engagement difficult, as you are experiencing.
If your clutch is good, try removing this spring, first.
There are some tricks to removing it, but can be done with minimum tools and skill.
I am sure someone will be able find the thread and post a link for the procedure.
You might find the procedure on Youtube.good luck,

It's usually referred to as a clutch-assist spring, since it's designed to reduce the amount of force required to press the pedal. I agree that this is a good first step to mitigating the symptoms described.

Great! Thank you, Railroad. I'm looking for information on it now. I've never heard of that. Yes, hopefully someone will pop up with some details or point me somewhere. Again, thanks a ton!

Welcome, Jason!

I removed my clutch-assist spring years ago and never looked back. Pedal effort increased about 20%-30%, but the linear response is worth it.

The spring assembly is made up of 4 parts, the pin, black top, coil spring, and white lower section. The whole assembly can removed without removing the pin. The upper mount is part of the pedal bracket assembly, the assist spring top pin sits in this mount.

Biggest caution is regarding the switches atchd to the clutch assembly. IIRC, the clutch/cruise control (top) switch has to be removed to get the spring out - be careful not to break the switch or its plunger. The starter interlock (gray plunger straight below the master cylinder rod and left of the pedal shaft) switch does not get touched.

This video demonstrates removal...

 

[tomshep]

OP, from your description of a high engagement and super stiff, I am wondering if they put an OEM clutch back in. If the dealer did in fact replace it maybe he went the cheapest route he could take. My 14 clutch engages mid-travel as expected and the clutch effort is pretty minimal.

Tom

 

[Norton]

OP, from your description of a high engagement and super stiff, I am wondering if they put an OEM clutch back in. If the dealer did in fact replace it maybe he went the cheapest route he could take. My 14 clutch engages mid-travel as expected and the clutch effort is pretty minimal.

Mine (and many other '13/'14 owners I know) describe our OEM clutches similarly to OP's. I think you're the only owner I've heard describe theirs with terms like mid-travel and minimal effort. (Not arguing with your assessment. Just pointing out that, in my experience, it's the exception rather than the rule.) IIRC, Ford changed the "OEM" clutch sometime during the two-year production run, due to an unusual number of early failures, which COULD account for differing clutch experiences. That said, "the cheapest route" any dealer can take, especially when performing warrantied repairs, is (almost?) always OEM parts.

 

[SlowVert]

Hey all, I know that I'm a few years late here but I just joined the forum. This has probably been discussed somewhere within the forum but I couldn't find it so please forgive me. My '14 500 is stock other than a K&N cold air and filter. I bought it new in October of '14 but it was shipped to me in Georgia from a dealer in Colorado. Not long after getting it (around 500 miles) Ford replaced the clutch because presumably some knuckle head or salesman wore it out on a test drive out west before I bought it. So, the clutch is a stock Ford clutch. Here's my point...damn it's a hard car to drive. I have just under 8,000 miles on it and still have a hard time taking off from a stop, especially on an incline. I stall it at least once almost every time I take her out. The clutch is crazy high AND super stiff. My understanding is that is how it's supposed to be but I would love to make it easier to enjoy. I don't race it and don't plan on any more modifications except for maybe a Stainless Works exhaust one day. She is a fair-weather, weekend car, not a trailer queen but not a daily either.. There are tons of clutch options on the market, especially at American Muscle. Does anyone have any suggestions? Or do I just need to practice more? Feel free to be brutal if I need it. Any and all experiences or suggestions are welcome. Thanks team.

Jason

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I had same issue - didn't stall but absolutely hated the clutch feel...... I bought the - Steeda S197 Mustang Clutch Spring Assist 95 lb/in (11-14) Part Number: 555-7023 - was only 10 bucks a few years ago - seems like the price got jacked up. Clutch is MUCH easier to use now....it's still a heavy pedal - but the big difference is it's more linear - the stock clutch (spring) seemed to make the pedal its heaviest right at engagement at the top of the travel.... this spring reduces the pressure some at the very top of travel - and therefore makes is smoother and easier to get the car rolling.

You can yank the spring out all together as some have done - I still wanted a spring in there just to be safe... for a couple bucks was worth it for me.

 

[1 Alibi 2]

The stock clutch in my 14 grabs high, removing the assist spring gives the pedal a more linear feel.
.
" I have just under 8,000 miles on it and still have a hard time taking off from a stop, especially on an incline. "
.
...........................Is your hill assist turned on ??

 

[tomshep]

Mine (and many other '13/'14 owners I know) describe our OEM clutches similarly to OP's. I think you're the only owner I've heard describe theirs with terms like mid-travel and minimal effort. (Not arguing with your assessment. Just pointing out that, in my experience, it's the exception rather than the rule.) IIRC, Ford changed the "OEM" clutch sometime during the two-year production run, due to an unusual number of early failures, which COULD account for differing clutch experiences. That said, "the cheapest route" any dealer can take, especially when performing warrantied repairs, is (almost?) always OEM parts.

Well, you could be right. I guess pressure is relative to the user. Mine is an August 2013 production so it would be in the last half of the production run, although close to the middle.

For perspective, the Ford Motorsport clutch in my R Model has much more pressure. So did my old 69 428. It is similar to my old 5.0 Cobra. I've driven a Terminator and that clutch had much greater pressure than my 14 Shelby.

Tom

 

[biminiLX]

My 2014 was built in May 2013 and it’s clutch and shifter were great.
I also would 110% remove the factory clutch spring and I’d run a new XClutch twin kit.
I run the Xclutch triple disc at 1100rwhp and I’m very happy.
Contact Xclutch and talk to Steve. He’ll get you set up for your application.
Good luck
-J

 

[Jason Shivers]

All,

I'm the original poster. Thank you all so very much for the advice and suggestions. I wound up purchasing and installing the Steeda clutch assist spring like many of you recommended. Wow! What a difference. It is much more enjoyable to drive now and I haven't stalled it a single time. Back deeper in the thread one of you asked if my hill assist was on and I failed to answer you; my apologies. Yes sir, my hill assist is on. Now, with this new Steeda spring it is super easy to start from a dead stop, even on hills. Thanks again, team. This is an awesome forum and kudos to the owner and manager of it. Well done!!

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