wheelliftnpony
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Are you connecting to the FPDM side of the purple/green wire or do you connect to the side heading to front of car side once its cut in half.
'13-14 upgrades on '07-12 GT500s
- Thread starter biminiLX
- Start date
Are you connecting to the FPDM side of the purple/green wire or do you connect to the side heading to front of car side once its cut in half.
The side heading to the front of the car. Not sure if you’d have issues the other way, would probably work as well.
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The 13 was a great source of parts from guys like Whitenation while they were still cheap.
On my 07:
Front and rear brakes
Fuel injectors
TVS (ported)
Fan
Recaros
Still in the garage:
Carbon DS
Airbox (was working to custom fit my CJ 123mm MAF)
Knuckles/A-arms (19mm vs 18mm balljoints)
The only other thing I really wanted was the oil pan, but never pulled the trigger since it seemed to be the most work that I wouldn’t get around to.
On my 07:
Front and rear brakes
Fuel injectors
TVS (ported)
Fan
Recaros
Still in the garage:
Carbon DS
Airbox (was working to custom fit my CJ 123mm MAF)
Knuckles/A-arms (19mm vs 18mm balljoints)
The only other thing I really wanted was the oil pan, but never pulled the trigger since it seemed to be the most work that I wouldn’t get around to.
Sorry for bringing up an old thread ,but I have watched this thread with great interest and am now in the middle of upgrading my '07 system with '13/14 components. Is there any more information on the wiring of the pump. (2) wire configuration vs having all (4) wires being connected. If anyone who connected pins 2 and 3, where did you get your power from and does the Ford wiring to the fuse need to be upgraded if the pump is running at a higher level?
Many thanks to those that have provided all this info. It is what makes this site great.
I have a thread in the How-To section with information on the pump wiring. You would need to open the pdf at the end of the thread for a pin-out. I think you would only use pin 2 with a controller, like the Lingenfelter unit. I've come across other controllers, but none of those come to mind, or were commercially available. I wired pins 3 and 4 together to power to get full pump capacity. Ford only uses pin 1 and 4 on the 13-14, but that's a reduced output for the Pierburg pump.
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If you are asking about the 2013/14 I/C pump on your 2007, on my 2008 I am going to start out with the OE 2-wire connection above the H/E (ahead of the radiator), I have the VMP 2007-2012 I/C pump relocation harness that will plug directly into the original 2008 I/C pump harness plug where the pump was originally located behind the grill and that extension harness will then bring the 12V power to the 2013/14 pump which I mounted in the original 2013/14 location on my 2008 timing cover below the P/S reservoir. At that point I will splice the correct 2013/14 pump harness end onto that VMP relocation/extension harness and it will be a direct plug-n-play install with no mods to my cars original wiring harness and the pump will be turned on and off just as it did originally with the same pump wiring and circuit, the only difference is that I will extend it to the new 2013/14 I/C pump on the timing cover via the VMP harness. It will all blend in as if Ford had installed it there, once I get the OEM bypass hose in place.
Using four wires to feed the 2013/14 pump? I know it has been discussed, but I don't know enough about it.
R
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I'll take a look at the pdf. Where did you pull your power from for pins 3 and 4? Have you noticed any adverse effects from running full power to the pump? (hot/burnt wires etc.)
One more question: Does the Ford pump require the 4-wires to run at full power like the Pierburg? In the Dept of Boost instructions they make it sound like the Ford pump will run at 100% with just the 2-wire setup.
Thanks!
This is close to the plan I had intended to use, other than the pump location. I have the VMP extension harness being shipped and you have confirmed for me the plug and play install. Thanks!
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My power lead is the original power lead to my OEM pump. Amp draw is not that much greater than the Bosch pump. I've not taken my car off the ramps yet, but I've run it at least 30 minutes on more than one occasion with no ill effects. I'm using the 4 wire harness from Ford that I mentioned in my write up. Pin 2 is not connected to anything.
The Bosch pump only has 2 terminals. I've read the DOB writeup, but what he means is that the Bosch pump is running at 100% with the two OEM wires. It's just worded poorly.
Here are the two pumps side by side showing the connectors, Bosch on the left, Pierburg on the right.
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Have mine wired up straight power and ground for over a year now, no issues. My Shelby has been my daily.
I finished up the install this weekend and while working on the electrical side of things and re-reading this post a question came up. I have modded the harness to accept the 4 wire replacement harness from Ford. In the post quoted above "Pin 3 in not connected to anything". I had assumed that Pin 3 and 4 were needed for full power on the pump and the original power wire was "split" and run to pin 3 and 4. I am electrically "challenged" and confused.
Ford only uses pins 1 and 4 on the 13-14. If your harness doesn't have 4 green wires coming from it, you have the wrong harness to run it at full power. The harness I used is Ford part no. CU2Z-14S411-AYA. Many of the "kits" use DR3Z-14A411-C which only has provision for a wire for pin 1 and 4.
I meant pin 2 is not connected to anything. I will edit that post.
I meant pin 2 is not connected to anything. I will edit that post.
Thanks for the reply. The pin 2 comment clears things up for me. I have the 4 wire kit -AYA that I basically patched into the a 2 wire harness. I attached the wire for pin 3 and 4 to power and pin 1 is the ground.
I plan on posting a couple of pics once complete to show the work that you all have helped me thru.
Many thanks!
I was rushing off to a meeting in my first paragraph and realized I was an hour early, so on rereading your post, I knew I had read it wrong. I just added the last part in case you had read it already. I tend to type faster than I think sometimes.
I forget if have I asked this already so sorry if I have.
Would it be a better idea to use a relay to deliver power to the pump and just the car harness to switch the relay on and off? This way you don't worry about the car harness not being able to handle the amp draw. Just a thought.
Would it be a better idea to use a relay to deliver power to the pump and just the car harness to switch the relay on and off? This way you don't worry about the car harness not being able to handle the amp draw. Just a thought.
I've used an extension with 16 ga. wires from OEM pump harness to the Ford pigtail. The original pump wiring on my '12 was of similar size, possibly 18 ga. Lingenfelter shows the Bosch pump having a maximum draw of 5.5 amps. The info I've found on the Pierburg is rated at 6.5 amps. Use a relay if you want, I but don't think it's necessary. I probably don't have more than 5 hours on the pump, but no issues so far. 18 ga. should handle 15 amps up to 10' of wire length. I doubt there's more than 3' of wire from the wire distribution panel to the OEM pump harness.
I wanted to post some pics of progress of upgrading to a 13/14 intercooler pump and adding a by-pass. I still need to clean up the wiring, but I'm almost home.
Big thanks to Catmonkey and Robert M for their replies to my post as well as everyone else who contributed to this thread.
Exactly how I have my hoses routed. Looks very clean sir!
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