100th time, what clutch?

[bigwave]

My 03 cobra clutch is starting to slip, it's pullied, CAI, Cat back, may do a little more and get to the 500~ HP range but not much past that. Should I replace the flywheel and the clutch or just the clutch, is their any benefit to getting a lighter weight flywheel? The current clutch in it is not stock, from P.O. ; but it is incredible stiff.
Car is used for occasional burnouts at car shows, and it goes to the 1/8 mile drag strip once a year for 4 or 5 runs. I really don't want to drop 800 or 1000 on one, but I don't want junk and a little easier peddle would be nice. It doesn't bother me too much, but on the occasional car show loop it gets pretty old doing stop and go for a few miles.

 

[BLOWN9646]

Go 26 spline while in there. Spec stage 2+ might be a good option

 

[bigwave]

Ok, going to start assembling the parts for the deed. Do you have a recommendation on the 26 spline input? I will look for instructions, is it difficult to do?

 

[bigwave]

Go 26 spline while in there. Spec stage 2+ might be a good option

Just a curiosity, I am the 2nd owner of this car and the first owner is 1200 miles away. I wonder if there is anyway of telling if the input shaft has already been changed to a 26 spline, without taking it all apart? I can't see how I could but, maybe there is a way??

 

[SID297]

McLeod

 

[BLOWN9646]

Just a curiosity, I am the 2nd owner of this car and the first owner is 1200 miles away. I wonder if there is anyway of telling if the input shaft has already been changed to a 26 spline, without taking it all apart? I can't see how I could but, maybe there is a way??

Nah just pull the trans, doesn't take too long.

Edit: you did say not a stock clutch so, yes quite possible it's already been done but ya never know

 

[geoffmt]

I have a spec stage 3+ single disc( disc only) new in the box. only took it out to look at it, I went with a twin disc instead. 3+ is good for 800+ hp, its a 26 spline 11" it cost me $325 and I would sell it shipped for $300

 

[cj428mach]

It depends on how much you want to spend, what you're willing to deal with, and your end goals.

You said 500 hp so thats not a lot, so most decent clutches should handle that. If you want reduced pedal effort and less harsh engagement I would go twin disc. If you want just a cheap clutch that'll do the job go spec stage 3+.

I personally wanted the best so I went Centerforce DYAD.

 

[bigwave]

It depends on how much you want to spend, what you're willing to deal with, and your end goals.

I personally wanted the best so I went Centerforce DYAD.

First off, thanks a ton guys for tuning in, I know this is a "beat to death" topic. I know the car has a centerforce in it now, or I think it does because I can see that it is orange through the cable cover. And it's SUPER stiff, I drove my buddies 99 Saleen last night and his clutch is 1/3 the peddle pressure, his car is still fully stock and I know not the same HP / engine. Don't take me wrong, I'm not looking to spend $$$ I don't need to, if this clutch wasn't slipping I'd not even consider changing it.
A little back ground for more advice. I replaced the quadrant and added a firewall adjuster (UPR Billet model), and put a new Ford OEM cable on; in an attempt to relieve some of the clutch pressure and it did help, I'm going to say 25% less force. It is fine by me, I'm 6-3 205-lb, but my son is 5-10 150 and he really complains and I'll admit it is hard to press, but doable. After doing that I can't get the clutch to adjust but to outer most hook on quadrant and Firewall adjuster all the way in and clutch is at the very top as opposed to being 2.5-3.5" off the floor.

On another note, my tentative plan is Mcleod RST 26 spline and tremec's input shaft. Not sure I want to take a chance on a less expensive input shaft but, $430 seems high.

 

[BLOWN9646]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustan...ash=item3abfdd3b38:g:8foAAOSw4GVYLJK9&vxp=mtr

 

[bigwave]

I've seen the AMP input shafts 26 spline, anyone use them? Are they a good product??

 

[Bdubbs]

I'm still rocking a promotion custom clutch rated to 550hp. I've had a tvs blower on my car for a few years as well.

Occasionally it would slip, but after backing the tob off the pressure plate a tad, it grabs again. This clutch cost around 325-350 I believe.

I do have a dyad clutch waiting...

 

[bigwave]

I've seen the AMP input shafts 26 spline, anyone use them? Are they a good product??

Well we will see, I have both the AMP 26 spline input shaft and the AMP TOB guide tube, to be installed. I will say the input shaft "looks" really nice and of quality. But, that means little, we will see.

 

[bigwave]

I'm still rocking a promotion custom clutch rated to 550hp. I've had a tvs blower on my car for a few years as well.

Occasionally it would slip, but after backing the tob off the pressure plate a tad, it grabs again. This clutch cost around 325-350 I believe.

I do have a dyad clutch waiting...

I can say, I never looked at that one (promo), just didn't run across it. The CF Dyad looks insane and strong, but, I'm thinking that's overkill for me at this time. That being said two Mcleod RST would = one dyad if a person owns and drives their car long enough. You'll have to let us all know how that installs and works, do you DD the car or ??? It would be interesting to hear how that clutch works on the street in traffic.

 

[Roots-type]

Call pro-motion and let wally set you up. There's no need for a $1k clutch. Mine is rated for 520rwhp and is MUCH easier to push than stock. Has never slipped in 20k miles. Id buy another one again and again.

 

[Bdubbs]

I can say, I never looked at that one (promo), just didn't run across it. The CF Dyad looks insane and strong, but, I'm thinking that's overkill for me at this time. That being said two Mcleod RST would = one dyad if a person owns and drives their car long enough. You'll have to let us all know how that installs and works, do you DD the car or ??? It would be interesting to hear how that clutch works on the street in traffic.

I don't daily drive mine, just a toy lol.

 

[cj428mach]

I can say, I never looked at that one (promo), just didn't run across it. The CF Dyad looks insane and strong, but, I'm thinking that's overkill for me at this time. That being said two Mcleod RST would = one dyad if a person owns and drives their car long enough. You'll have to let us all know how that installs and works, do you DD the car or ??? It would be interesting to hear how that clutch works on the street in traffic.

Some things to consider with the DYAD when comparing costs to the RST/RXT

1. The DYAD comes with a flywheel. (Most at the very least rebuild their stock flywheel or buy a new one)
2. The DYAD comes with all new ARP mounting hardware. Buying this stuff for the McLeods adds to the cost.
3. The DYAD comes pre-tested with a report on how well your individual clutch did. It also comes balanced as a package with the flywheel and all of it is marked to help make sure everything is right when installed and balance is maintained.
4. The DYAD is a Sprung Hub so noise and drivetrain rattle is reduced.
5. The DYAD is also virtually stock height so no pivot ball issues, and it allows a Magnum t56 to bolt right up with no clutch fork clearance issues.

The DYAD does cost more up front but in my opinion you're really getting more bang for your buck once you add it all up. It is a harsh clutch once its first installed but as it breaks in it gets better and better. I have over 3000 miles and this clutch is amazing and I'm glad I spent the money to do it right.

The RST will probably serve you fine if you stay under 600rwhp, lots of people complain about tearing them up before switching to the RXT.

 

[jblood37]

If going McLeod, bypass the RST and do RXT.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[tt335ci03cobra]

Have some extra meat in the clutch load range.

If you run 50-100tq higher than the load range, you'll run into small but significant exacerbated wear on the drivetrain components.

The clutch should carry most of the load. Better to spend $250 extra and get a 750-1000tq rated clutch with nice feel than a less expensive but stiffer or weaker clutch.

When you drive, the clutch is one of the most used parts of the car. Get one that is very easy to use.

I had a bitch of a time heel toe down shifting my spec stage 3+ rated at iirc 650tq, but my expensive albeit awesome McLeod rxt is a jem and makes canyon driving or even just putting in rush hour a breeze.

 

[bigwave]

All good info, it's amazing how a project that started as a $200-500 has already exceeded 1000 with; new input shaft, clutch, flywheel, TOB sleeve, head cooling fittings, and more. This started as a new clutch for $200 bucks and having the flywheel resurfaced for $40. If you want to play you got to pay...... I guess. I did order the McLeod RST and a new flywheel to mate with it at install. I'm hoping it is not disappointing and holds up long term. I do enjoy all the good info and hearing others thoughts and experiences!