1" (inlet and outlet) intercooler mod from J2Fab

[Poisonous West]

For those of you who would like to have your existing intercooler (stock or KB Bigun) mod by J2Fab. Make sure you read this first ESPECIALLY for those who is running KB 3.6 / 4.2.

Last year I have my KB Bigun (the early version) IC removed and sent back to KB to have it revised to the newer revision mounting flanges updated. I also decided to have the 1" (inlet and outlet) intercooler mod from J2Fab. The J2Fab IC mod bored out the intercooler inlet and outlet and includes a CNC billet aluminum water manifold machined to accept (2) -16AN caps.

As a result, the J2Fab IC mod will provides more than 2X the cross sectional area than the stock (212% to be exact).

This IC mod from J2Fab ONLY provides HALF of the solution which is on the intercooler side. The other half of the solution which is the plumbing portion really depends on the end user to figure out. And since I have the KB 3.6 LC supercharger with a 3.75" upper pulley and stock lower pulley. Thing does NOT look good. It REQUIES a special solution ESPECISLLY on the upper intercooler outlet in order to provides enough clear for the supercharger belt.

Since the biggest concern is the upper outlet so I decided to tackle that first. I started by using an Earl's -16AN fitting (P/N AT704616ERL) with a 45 degree barb outlet and a 45 degree 16 gage aluminum tubing. I cut off the barb outlet portion and welded in a 45 degree aluminum tubing but the result is NOT something I really like.

So back to the drawing board. I started by utilizing (2) Earl's -16AN caps and taking LOTS of measurements and transfer all those measurements into CAD - I used to be a Catia CAD modeler / designer for more than a decade. Things started to look good as CAD models getting more mature. I sent out the shorter (more cost effective) CAD version to a 3D printing shop and have it printed in aluminum. This shorter (more cost effective) 3D printed aluminum elbow would welds to a 3" long 16 gage aluminum tubing as shown in the below picture.

I then started working on the (2) -16 AN caps. I first drilled out the blocked caps with a final hole size of 7/8". Then 1 of the cap needs to mill down by 3.3mm (my originally calculation only requires 2.5mm) and this milled down cap is used on the upper IC outlet. With all the necessary parts in place including the KB 3.6 installed. The end result is I have 8.5mm of clearance between the outlet fitting and the supercharger belt - remember I am using the 3.75" upper pulley. If I switch to 3.625" upper pulley, the clearance increase to ~ 9.25mm. A 3.5" upper pulley will results in ~10mm clearance.

Things starts to fall into places so I switch attention to the lower IC inlet. I started out a shorter (more cost effective) CAD version and have it 3D printed in aluminum. This shorter (more cost effective) 3D printed aluminum elbow would welds to a ~ 5" long 45 degree 16 gage aluminum tubing and a 1/4" NPT weld bung as shown in the below picture.

These 2 short (more cost effective) printed pieces work out great but I just don't like all these welds. So I re-visit the CAD models and have everything 3D printed in 1 single piece. While revising on the CAD models, I discovered the upper outlet elbow can be moved backward by another 1mm. As a result, I end up having 9.5mm of clearance between the outlet fitting and the supercharger belt - remember I am using the 3.75" upper pulley. If I switch to 3.625" upper pulley, the clearance increase to ~ 10.25mm. A 3.5" upper pulley will results in ~11mm clearance. The below picture shows the 1 piece 3D printed inlet and outlet welded to the -16 AN caps.

Pictures below show everything installed on the engine.

So at the end, it cost me 1K to 3D printed everything (total 4 pieces - 1" lower IC inlet with integrated 1/4" NPT bung, 1" IC upper outlet, 1" T with a 3/4" spout and integrated 1/4" NPT bung and flow restrictor to the IC reservoir, and finally a special 1" T with 1" outlet and 3/4" outlet) and I am doing ALL the CAD modeling myself. The shorter (more cost effective) pieces would still cost ~ $450 to have a complete set (4 pieces). For those who has the KB 3.6 / 4.2 supercharger and wants to do the J2Fab 1" intercooler mod. Better think twice before pulling the trigger. I guarantee you will run into the same problem as encountered. Have fun.

 

[biminiLX]

Looks good Kam!
I hope it works out well for you man, you have more ingenuity than I do.
-J

 

[RedVenom48]

Very clean solution to you r problem, and very nice. 1k though, ouch. Maybe see if you can get some made to sell to recoup your initial cost?

 

[serickson1]

I've been running this mod for 2 years with no issues using off the shelf AN 16 fittings with a KB 4.2.....this is one of the best mods you can do to a large blower set up.....while the OP did a great job designing a solution don't let this stop you from up sizing your inner cooler lines.

 

[jenkins_1120]

What pump?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[biminiLX]

I've been running this mod for 2 years with no issues using off the shelf AN 16 fittings with a KB 4.2.....this is one of the best mods you can do to a large blower set up.....while the OP did a great job designing a solution don't let this stop you from up sizing your inner cooler lines.

So how’d you do it?
This is the only mod I’m lacking and it looks like a major challenge.
Pics?
-J

 

[serickson1]

I havent posted pics in a long time on this forum but if you want to PM me an email I can send you some and you can post them up if you want....I used a 45 degree elbow for the top fitting and pointed it towards the driver side and slightly up which alowed the AN 16 hose to thread between the accessory and blower belts safely.....the lower fitting is a 90 degree elbow that is pointing slightly down and to the drivers side with a couple hose clamps holding the AN 16 lines tight to the front cover and heads....It wasn't real tricky or difficult and I have had zero issues with the lines touching any pulleys our belts.....not sure if this matters but I do have AC delete and manual steering on the car.....I'm running an EMP external pump in the trunk...the EMP and AN 16 lines keep IAT 2's in the mid 90 degree range @ 26psi....I have run a 4.0, 3.75, and 3.5 pulley.

 

[serickson1]

That IAT # is with 20lbs of ice in the tank at the start of the run....

 

[Poisonous West]

I haven't posted pics in a long time on this forum but if you want to PM me an email I can send you some and you can post them up if you want....I used a 45 degree elbow for the top fitting and pointed it towards the driver side and slightly up which allowed the AN 16 hose to thread between the accessory and blower belts safely.....the lower fitting is a 90 degree elbow that is pointing slightly down and to the drivers side with a couple hose clamps holding the AN 16 lines tight to the front cover and heads....It wasn't real tricky or difficult and I have had zero issues with the lines touching any pulleys our belts.....not sure if this matters but I do have AC delete and manual steering on the car.....I'm running an EMP external pump in the trunk...the EMP and AN 16 lines keep IAT 2's in the mid 90 degree range @ 26psi....I have run a 4.0, 3.75, and 3.5 pulley.

I am not sure which brand of -16AN fitting you are using (Earl's, XRP, etc.).

As I stated at the beginning, my first attempted was to utilize Earl's -16AN fitting with a 45 degree barb end (P/N AT704616ERL) connects to 1" hose as shown in the below picture. But the BIGGEST issue was the outlet ID of the -16AN fitting which is TOTALLY MUCH SMALLER than the J2Fab supplied new cross over tube. That's why I cutout the barb outlet portion and welded in a 45 degree 1" tubing so the ID is always bigger than 20.4mm

• Stock cross over tube ID = 14mm (154mm^2 cross sectional area)
• J2Fab new supplied cross over tube ID = 20.4mm (327mm^2 cross sectional area)
• Earl's -16AN 45 degree 1" barb fitting ID = 17.6 (243mm^2 cross sectional area)

If you are JUST using the Earl's -16 AN fitting without modifying them. You are ONLY utilizing ~ 53% of the J2Fab IC mod. If it's that easy I would NOT have to design this solution and 3D print them in aluminum. All my 3D printed parts are at least 21mm ID. My objective is to utilize FULL 100% of the J2Fab IC mod.

 

[Catmonkey]

So what are the i.d.s for your printed pieces?

 

[GodStang]

Really cool and great work. I have a 3.6L on an 03 Cobra and have been debating doing the J2Fab for our car. 3.25" upper and stock lower.

 

[Poisonous West]

So what are the i.d.s for your printed pieces?

My 3D printed parts has minimum 21mm ID. The Earl's -16AN caps has 7/8" (22.2mm) drilled hole so the smallest ID is always the J2Fab supplied cross over tube which has 20.4mm ID.

 

[serickson1]

I am not sure which brand of -16AN fitting you are using (Earl's, XRP, etc.).

As I stated at the beginning, my first attempted was to utilize Earl's -16AN fitting with a 45 degree barb end (P/N AT704616ERL) connects to 1" hose as shown in the below picture. But the BIGGEST issue was the outlet ID of the -16AN fitting which is TOTALLY MUCH SMALLER than the J2Fab supplied new cross over tube. That's why I cutout the barb outlet portion and welded in a 45 degree 1" tubing so the ID is always bigger than 20.4mm

• Stock cross over tube ID = 14mm (154mm^2 cross sectional area)
• J2Fab new supplied cross over tube ID = 20.4mm (327mm^2 cross sectional area)
• Earl's -16AN 45 degree 1" barb fitting ID = 17.6 (243mm^2 cross sectional area)

View attachment 1549982


View attachment 1549983

If you are JUST using the Earl's -16 AN fitting without modifying them. You are ONLY utilizing ~ 53% of the J2Fab IC mod. If it's that easy I would NOT have to design this solution and 3D print them in aluminum. All my 3D printed parts are at least 21mm ID. My objective is to utilize FULL 100% of the J2Fab IC mod.

As I stated in my post you came up with a great solution to your problem......however it dosen't need to be so expensive or complicated.....the ID of a Summit AN16 fitting...not hose barb....is over 24mm....I used 2 fittings and AN 16 hose....no restrictions and the combination of the AN 16 Hose and EMP pump moves more ice water then the IC can handle...If you are just running a Rule in tank pump this mod won't make much difference in IAT 2's any way and wouldn't be worth it.....I didn't see any significant drop in IAT's until I changed pumps....

 

[Snoopy49]

What is the I.D. of the tubing inside the charge air cooler under the blower?

 

[Catmonkey]

What is the I.D. of the tubing inside the charge air cooler under the blower?

• J2Fab new supplied cross over tube ID = 20.4mm (327mm^2 cross sectional area)

Stock cross over tube on the left, J2Fab on the right.

 

[Snoopy49]

Does the charge air cooler under the blower support the added flow from a 1" fitting or is the CAC going to be the limiting factor?

 

[Catmonkey]

Does the charge air cooler under the blower support the added flow from a 1" fitting or is the CAC going to be the limiting factor?

That's the $64,000 question. I've never seen it answered. I have to think there's a point of diminishing returns in the OEM intercooler. Obviously there's room for improvement in the stock sized .55" cross over tubes.

 

[Snoopy49]

I guess the only way to answer the question is to measure the back pressure at the inlet side of CAC and compare stock to modified.

 

[serickson1]

The question is really does this mod lower IAT2's under boost....I ran a trunk mount tank with a Rule 2000 in tank pump and AN12 lines for years and saw IAT2's in the 120-125 range under WOT during a 1/4 mile pass with ice in the tank....made the J2Fab change with AN16 lines and saw about a 5-10 degree improvement....switched to the EMP external pump and saw another 20 degree drop in IAT's.....the mod flat works when coupled with AN16 lines and the EMP pump regardless of the tubing size inside the IC....I would think you would only do this mod to an aftermarket IC...

 

[biminiLX]

So many forget the pump and core. The pump must be capable of flow despite restriction, similar to factory design but greater, and unlike a bilge design like Rule. My Bigun core and 1” line with ice tank and two stock ‘13-14 pumps kept temps under 100 on the strip. I’ll get screenshots of datalogs this season.
-J