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04 6r80 swap cobra

Discussion in 'Driveline' started by paulstang347, Apr 7, 2018.

  1. ShootyMCstabby

    ShootyMCstabby Brownie Hound. Established Member

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    Ok so I was able to get the 6r80 in my car this weekend. I need to fix 2 part #'s I had listed. I will fix above but I will tell you why.

    So the torque converter nuts I received from Ford were the wrong 1's. Was listed as Torque Converter Nuts, 37891*S441. That's wrong. It's -W714689-S437.

    And the Bellhousing to engine block Bolts. W710658*S439-(65mm)Need 2#. Just get all 7# of the N606067*S439-(75mm).

    Ok so after the trans is in. I wouldn't want to try and fit my hand between the trans and LT Kooks header to get those last 6-8 quarts of fluid in when the exhaust is warm/hot. So I am opting to pick up a B&M locking dipstick part #22200.
     
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  2. V3NOMUS03

    V3NOMUS03 New Member Established Member

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    Thanks for the update on the part # .
     
  3. Wings65288

    Wings65288 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Any updates on this?
     
  4. Michael Plackis

    Michael Plackis Active Member Established Member

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    Sorry haven’t been on here in a while. What kind of updates are you looking for?
    The trans is amazing. It’s been mostly problem free. I just got the transbrake firmware update but I haven’t wired a switch in for it so I can’t comment on that yet
     
  5. gap5620

    gap5620 New Member

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    How did y'all get the speedometer to work in the gauge cluster with the quick 6?
     
  6. Ryan2KRedL

    Ryan2KRedL SVT Enthusiast Established Member

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    I put the US Shift controller in my 6R80 conversion for my TTsaleen (98).
    The speedometer signal is right off the US Shift wiring harness, but you have to add the capacitor inline they give you.
    Then you adjust the ratio in the US Shift software to get the speedometer to read properly.

    My controller is working good so far too. Not been to the track yet, but on the street it seems OK. Shifts quickly/early but I can probably play around with the settings on this more. When you mash the throttle, it detects and will drop down from 6th to 3rd for passing gear and go. I like this feature! My transbrake works great.
     
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  7. gap5620

    gap5620 New Member

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    You know by chance what the ratio should be?
     
  8. Ryan2KRedL

    Ryan2KRedL SVT Enthusiast Established Member

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    On my 98 model using 3.55 rear gears, I tapped my Vehicle Speed Sensor wire (back left of transmission) harness - Gry/Blk wire, and attached it to the US Shift harness Pin 12 - Tan wire.
    I had to solder in the supplied 10uF capacitor in line of the tan wire. Without this, I didn't get any signal.
    Open up the US Shift software and select the Speed Sensor & Gearing tab.
    Put your gear ratio and tire diameter size in here.
    Next select the Speedometer Output tab.
    In the drop-down box select the Ratio-Corrected Speedometer Output.
    In the Speedometer Pulse Ratio box, this is where you will put in a number specific to what your car needs.
    Default is 0.250. My car uses 0.080 and my speedometer reads accurately based on my phone GPS.

    Good luck!
    Ryan
     
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  9. One of 101

    One of 101 New Member

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    Denmark
    I’m doing this swab in my 1967 Mustang project.
    Can’t wait to unleash my 850 RWHP from my blown 408 cui stroker Windsor.

    Great info on the Quick6 controller that I can use.

    Question: Is it possible to buy a drive shaft like the M-4602-MGTM but get a version that will fit a Ford 9inch rear end? Or just buy the front part of the shaft (with the flexible part) and get a drive shaft shop to make the rest? I’ll need a custom length anyway.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2019
  10. Wings65288

    Wings65288 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Are you guys using that tach ABS adaptor to make the speedometer work?
     
  11. ShootyMCstabby

    ShootyMCstabby Brownie Hound. Established Member

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    Sounds like too much hassle. I would get everything in and measure it. Any good drive shaft shop near you should be able to order both end flanges and keep them both 1350 so you don't have to worry about u-joint conversions.


    lol, no the tach. it's in the name.. Ryan2KRedL explains how to wire up the speedometer
     
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  12. biminiLX

    biminiLX never stock Established Member

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    Anyone having problems at all with the Quick 6 controller?
    I see the 6R80 being a very popular conversion and even bought one myself for a serious drag build.
    Several have recommended staying with stock electronics for the ability to control both engine and trans.
    They seem to think the factory control is superior, but I’d like to hear from guys actually running this US Shift Quick 6 in a powerful project
    Any input appreciated.
    -J
     
  13. One of 101

    One of 101 New Member

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    So I guess the trick is to find a U joint that fits the M4602MGTM and the 1350 yoke

    m4602mgtm_7035.jpg

    0002351_60-1350fcm-1350-forged-chromoly-yoke-rockjock-6070-dana-60-29-spline.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2019
  14. biminiLX

    biminiLX never stock Established Member

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    Not sure but who have you talked to?
    I would think a quality shop would be used to making this application work.
    I’ve had success with these 2 companies:
    P.S.T.
    Precision Shaft Technologies
    and
    Dynotech
    DYNOTECH ENGINEERING
    Most recently PST made me an SFI slicked Carbon fiber shaft for a Magnum XL and Strange 9” in an S197.
    Ordered and received in 4 days.
    Not bad.
    -J
     
  15. Michael Plackis

    Michael Plackis Active Member Established Member

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    I’ve had one issue with my controller. It had a flash memory problem but I sent it back and had a new one in under a week. From what I gathered it isn’t a common issue. That was the only issue I’ve had with it. Besides that I absolutely love it. I have since day one. I always tell everyone even thinking about doing a trans swap that I’d go with the 6R80 if I were them. Stock they’re good for like 800 reliably. There aren’t many other stock transmissions that can keep up with that and they’re not expensive if you get one from a truck which actually have the extra friction plate potentially making them stronger for higher hp builds. Even if you do build the trans it’s not terribly expensive and will still be cheaper than buying a built 4R70. The controller itself is very easy to use however the tunes that come predownloaded with the software aren’t perfect and do require the slightest bit of knowledge to set up but I went into this with zero knowledge and managed the make it work pretty good and with time I slowly adjust and make it better.
    I thought about going with the coyote computer to control it and my engine but it’s a lot more work and I don’t want that going on right now. If I swap everything from my car into the foxbody I have I might go for it but I think I’d rather have the trans controller and a stand-alone ECU(Holley or MS3). I prefer the controller because it is easier for me to go in and tune it myself versus having the stock ecu.
    The coyote computer could potentially make it smoother and more like stock but I would trade that for the ability to adjust stuff on the fly with ease.
     
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  16. Wings65288

    Wings65288 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Cool thanks Shooty I see now lol. I go back and forth between this and a Magnum. When it comes time I think this is the way I need to go. It just seems like a no brainer I need to stop talking myself out of it.
     
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  17. ShootyMCstabby

    ShootyMCstabby Brownie Hound. Established Member

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    No problem Wings65288. I too am dyslectic at times.

    I had a magnum and I couldn't do it. Highway sure but from a dig, maybe 1 out of 5 runs were clean.
    But it ain't cheap. Close to 5k into my 6r80 swap.. But I guess if you bought a new magnum, a clutch and flywheel package. And drive shaft you would be at 5k too so.
    If you decide to go auto for sure go this route. But the magnum is no slouch either. Just depends what you want to do with your car.


    That's what I was thinking. The cost and possible headache of getting it tuned as well. The langue from US shift is easy to follow.
    I am looking forward to using my accelerate and decelerate cruise control buttons. On the steering wheel as the upshift and down shift options. While in " Manutronic " mode.
     
  18. Michael Plackis

    Michael Plackis Active Member Established Member

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    The only reason I genuinely want to do the coyote computer is for the push to start. I’m notorious for forgetting my keys in my car and never having to take them out of my pocket sounds great. I also really want flex fuel but that’s possible with most stand alones
     
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  19. Wings65288

    Wings65288 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Yeah about $5K is what I figured for both swaps. I can sell my T56 for at least a grand and the clutch for $500
     
  20. holiks03cobra

    holiks03cobra Active Member Established Member

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    Damn, wish I would've known this before I turned my front abs sensor into the speedo. My speedo is off by about 10mph. Can I fix that with my handheld? Or I may just wire it up like you explained.
     

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