Is there a trans brake for the 6r? Are you planning on taking the car to the drag strip?
04 6r80 swap cobra
- Thread starter paulstang347
- Start date
I plan on taking it to the strip if only mother nature would play nice. Seems every weekend it rains. There is a trand brake put there. Im working on how to make it work with the quick 6. For now i will launch off foot brake.
Sub’ing
Great write up. On my list of things to do once my car is running again. I currently have a Lentech 4r70w and want to switch to the 6r80 eventually.
Looking forward to some track times and vids.
Ken
Great write up. On my list of things to do once my car is running again. I currently have a Lentech 4r70w and want to switch to the 6r80 eventually.
Looking forward to some track times and vids.
Ken
No you need to have a slip joint in it.
SR Performance Mustang Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft 384412 (11-14 GT) - Free Shipping
Notice the joint built into the shaft. The 6r80 does not have splines to put a shaft into..
So what did you do here just swap your U joint and flange on to the 11-14 drive shaft?
Also, did you run without the inspection plate?
Are you running the stock F150 converter? If so how is the stall with the turbo.
No it's a complete set up, no need to switch anything. Here is the Factory ford piece. M-4602-MGTM.
I had a question. What part number is that 2013 backing plate/starter index plate?
I have been looking and it doesn't look like M-7007a or M-6367a.
Edit: I found the backing/starter index/inspection/separator plate. aka someone needs to pick 1 description. It's PA26448.
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The Backing plate and inspection plate are separate pieces. Unless you found an assembly number for both.
The picture in the first page of the thread shows the rear driveshaft flange Paul used and it looks completely different than the 10-14 flange. I'm just guessing there is a reason why the old/new driveshaft pic shows the old driveshaft missing the U joint and flange. Looks like U bolts for a Ford 9"
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Dang these Driveshafts are insanely expensive. I can have a custom DS made for around $400.
Would this work?
Dorman Products - 946-374
Would this work?
Dorman Products - 946-374
It's steel. You get what you pay for.
Yeah the listings of that part is confusing. it's 2 part #'s through Ford.
My eye's aren't what they used to be but I am sure that flange on the Drive shaft is the same as the SR and the ford performance 1's.
Edit: the backing plate #AC3Z-7007-A is the correct 1 for the swap. Sorry about my/the confusion.
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Thanks for clarifying,
I have researched Driveshaft materials and RPM capabilities and it seems that steal is a superior high RPM material. That being said it is Dorman and they are not very good at providing high quality parts.
I have found a shop in MN that will modify my FRPP aluminum DS with the proper forward flange and correct length for $325
Also picked up a 98k mile 4x2 2012 F150 5.0 6R80 for $300 with a 2 year extended warranty. The case needs cleaning and it needs a new filter and pan gasket because the salvage yard I got it from takes the filters out so the customer is forced to put new ones in.
I called a DS shop I normally deal with (proven force in Maple grove) and they won't touch it. Said if it's aluminum it needs to be re-sleeved/whole new tube. I called AN in White bear and was quoted 583$ for the 4602-MGTM.
So probably go that route.
Yeah the trans runs from 300$ and up depending. I have a buddy that runs a tow company and gets free vehicles to scrap all the time. Only problem with that is not to many 2x4's in this state, seems like a lot more 3.5l too.
How do you like it with factory converter what kind of stall are you getting
I have the stock converter in my car with a ported Eaton so I can’t speak for a turbo set up but it is working great so far. A slightly higher stall may be better but as is completely stock the trans is really amazing and works well
What kind of stall do you get out of your setup
Michael, Have you looked at the Shrader mount? I have Kooks 1 7/8 LT and Kooks 3" X pipe. Looks like the Shrader mount has more clearance compared to the Stifflers.
I’d say around 2000 give it take 100. Circle D recommended me one with a 3200-3400 stall
I have seen it but it’s a fair bit more expensive than the stifflers.
Plus the guy I bought it from sent me it without the correct hardware so I had the brackets welded right to the subframe connectors so that may have affected fitment. I would recommend the stifflers anyday just due to price and quality. With the Shrader one you have to buy the isolator from a mustang as well. It didn’t require heavy modification. Just a small bend but with it properly installed you may not need that
Thanks for the reply. I just took an pic of how close my 3" kooks x pipe is to the floor.
And I don't think the Stifflers will clear them. I might have to go with the more expensive Shraders mount to avoid exhaust work. less then 2"
And I don't think the Stifflers will clear them. I might have to go with the more expensive Shraders mount to avoid exhaust work. less then 2"
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