03 Cobra Voltage spike

MachR1

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03 Cobra Battery issue.


I recently bought the car and on the drive home after a quick WOT pull, (1-3) getting in the highway, the battery light flickered and then steadied. It stayed that way for about 3 out of the 4 hour trip. The next morning the battery was 0% dead but had some fluid on top so I figured it was just a bad battery. So I replaced it with a motocraft battery.


The car sat for a week, and when I went to start it she fired right up and drove well without any issues for about a week. Then one morning I went outside and she was dead again. So I thought maybe it was a bad battery. Ford replaced it and everything was good.


Soon after I installed the aeroforce gauges and monitored my volts just incase. Again, she sat for a few days then I drove her around, she says again for a few days. This went on for about a week maybe two.


On the way home last week I was driving and noticed my battery light come on as well as the ABS light. I immediately look at my volt gauge and it's at 15.7 (that's the higher I remember it going) it lasted maybe 5 minutes and then dropped to normal. I drove it 20 minutes from that point home at about 70mph, parked the car and left. The next day I came out and the car was dead. I took the battery to autozone and let it charge for 2 hours, came back and they said it was toast.


My initial thought is the voltage regulator on the alternator or the entire thing in general. Maybe a diode..? I have no idea. The only thread I found was shot a fox body with similar issues jumping to 18v.


Mods are basic, CAI, Upper, exhaust and a tune. I don't believe it has a lower but I still need to check. Does anyone have any other possible causes?
 

5.0stang95

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I have seen a lot of people say if your have a different pulley set up but the alternator pulley is stock it could over spin the alternator and fry it. They sell a different pulley for alternator.
 

01yellercobra

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Get your alternator checked. It is possible for the voltage regulator to go out. My buddy just had it go out on his 67 GTO. He shut it down when the DMM showed 18vdc and was still climbing.
 

John M

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Alternator failed internally, IMO get a new one and batt and put in the car might even check after you install them that nothing is draining the batt, to me sounds like your just overcharging the batt, I have a friend with the same mods and he didn't have to change his alt pulley it should regulate itself
 

Bdubbs

u even lift bro?
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I have seen a lot of people say if your have a different pulley set up but the alternator pulley is stock it could over spin the alternator and fry it. They sell a different pulley for alternator.

Typically yes when running a upper/lower pulley setup. But not when only running a upper on blower.
 

Black02GT

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I was over spinning mine and had the regulator fail. Hooked up my SCT tuner was making 14+ at idle and would go up proportional to RPM. Had all the same symptoms as you without the battery fluid but I was running an Optima so it's sealed. It's all one unit (alt and reg), I'd be willing to bet that's your issue.
 
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mrose75

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What is the recommended charging voltage? I'm having alternator issues as well, but in the opposite direction with a brand new Mechman.
 

big dad

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What is the recommended charging voltage? I'm having alternator issues as well, but in the opposite direction with a brand new Mechman.

Rule of thumb is normal charging volts should be between 13.5-14.8v.
 

I'D WIN

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With these upgraded alternators, if you are seeing less than 14.0v, you more than likely have an insufficient power cable size or grounding issue ... Sometimes both!
 

mrose75

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I'm running zero gauge upgrade wires. I'm thinking its a ground issue. I'm reaching out to Mechman for some insight.
 

MachR1

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So I tested the alternator and it would seem the voltage regulator went bad and was over charging my battery. The test showed actual colts at 28v :eek::eek::eek:
 

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