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Driveline
03-04 Differential Girdle Cover
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<blockquote data-quote="Savn4Mods" data-source="post: 7797074" data-attributes="member: 76580"><p>First of all I just want to say I'll be the first to tell you I don't know everything and really enjoy learning. I enjoy these kinds of discussions and I have nothing to prove. I don't work for any parts company and only want the best parts for my car. I could really care less if they said Tonka on them. Hey Pistolwhip....thanks to your previous post I rode 45 minutes home from work yesterday and didn't even turn on the radio.....I just pondered your comments <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>We established earlier that there is a force on the bearing caps toward the rear AND drivers side of the car right? The ring gear is pushed back AND toward the drivers side. If we were able to look at the vector forces we would probably have a resultant force that would be directed more toward the drivers side exhaust tip, but for the ease of this conversation just know that there is a force exerted on the bearing caps toward the rear of the car. The only thing holding that carrier in the housing (excluding the axles here) is those 4 bearing cap bolts, which are taking the full brunt of that force.....right? If I add ANY mechanism (like the pre load bolts) to take some of the load off these 4 bolts, haven't I DEcreased the chances of those 4 bolts failing? Kinda like this.....if you are exerting a force to move a disabled car and a buddy comes along and adds ANY amount of force in the same direction as you, doesn't that make your job easier? Another thing that these pre load bolts help with is stabilizing the bearing caps. In reality they move around ever so slightly and these bolts make them act more as one piece with the rear end. In essence they are now more like one whole piece. For my car I would also like to put billet steel bearing caps and replace the stock diff cap bolts with studs just to add another degree of strength.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>You are correct in your statements about the stock IRS cover. I would agree that most likely the #1 cause of the IRS cover failures is due to torsional (rotational) forces on the housing coupled with the mounting location on the rear cover. I'll buy that. The center section is trying to turn due to being hooked up to the driveshaff and that stock rear mount is trying to stand up and say "OH no you don't." That equals broken diff cover at some HP and traction level. Also, diff bushings other than rubber will keep the housing from moving as much and putting as much load on the rear cover mounting point.</p><p></p><p>On to the brace setup you are running. With your setup, where does all that torsional load we just discussed go now with that steel brace on the rear mount? The force mostly goes into the 5 or 6 bolts (depending on brand) that attach the brace. This setup is a definate improvment over stock no doubt, but wouldn't it be better to spread that load over all 10 of the rear diff cover bolts? You are correct about the rear mounting point....if it is hollowed out it might not be as strong and that could become your weakest link. To hollow out that mount point would not be wise engineering. The solid Billet diff cover, done correctly, will spread the load of the torsional forces created by the rear IRS subframe mount over all 10 of the rear bolts (pre load bolts will also take some of this load) which is better than the 5 or 6 used in the steel brace/stock cover setup. Think of the shear (or cross) loading on the these bolts as the cover TRIES to spin off of the diff housing as the housing TRIES to rotate with the driveshaft. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I think these guys are having this problem with the steel brace setup because, the other half of the diff housing is still in stock form (i.e. aluminum cover & bolts) and can still move and deform more than the passenger side with the steel IRS brace. The forces I talked about before are still at work. The ring gear and diff are still trying to exit the rearend somewhere out the back toward the drivers side. As they exert force toward the drivers side carrier bearing on the aluminum diff housing, it will deform. I would be interested to see what is breaking and where they are leaking. I would also be interested in their whole car setup, such as HP levels, tires, gears, etc.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Savn4Mods, post: 7797074, member: 76580"] First of all I just want to say I'll be the first to tell you I don't know everything and really enjoy learning. I enjoy these kinds of discussions and I have nothing to prove. I don't work for any parts company and only want the best parts for my car. I could really care less if they said Tonka on them. Hey Pistolwhip....thanks to your previous post I rode 45 minutes home from work yesterday and didn't even turn on the radio.....I just pondered your comments :D We established earlier that there is a force on the bearing caps toward the rear AND drivers side of the car right? The ring gear is pushed back AND toward the drivers side. If we were able to look at the vector forces we would probably have a resultant force that would be directed more toward the drivers side exhaust tip, but for the ease of this conversation just know that there is a force exerted on the bearing caps toward the rear of the car. The only thing holding that carrier in the housing (excluding the axles here) is those 4 bearing cap bolts, which are taking the full brunt of that force.....right? If I add ANY mechanism (like the pre load bolts) to take some of the load off these 4 bolts, haven't I DEcreased the chances of those 4 bolts failing? Kinda like this.....if you are exerting a force to move a disabled car and a buddy comes along and adds ANY amount of force in the same direction as you, doesn't that make your job easier? Another thing that these pre load bolts help with is stabilizing the bearing caps. In reality they move around ever so slightly and these bolts make them act more as one piece with the rear end. In essence they are now more like one whole piece. For my car I would also like to put billet steel bearing caps and replace the stock diff cap bolts with studs just to add another degree of strength. You are correct in your statements about the stock IRS cover. I would agree that most likely the #1 cause of the IRS cover failures is due to torsional (rotational) forces on the housing coupled with the mounting location on the rear cover. I'll buy that. The center section is trying to turn due to being hooked up to the driveshaff and that stock rear mount is trying to stand up and say "OH no you don't." That equals broken diff cover at some HP and traction level. Also, diff bushings other than rubber will keep the housing from moving as much and putting as much load on the rear cover mounting point. On to the brace setup you are running. With your setup, where does all that torsional load we just discussed go now with that steel brace on the rear mount? The force mostly goes into the 5 or 6 bolts (depending on brand) that attach the brace. This setup is a definate improvment over stock no doubt, but wouldn't it be better to spread that load over all 10 of the rear diff cover bolts? You are correct about the rear mounting point....if it is hollowed out it might not be as strong and that could become your weakest link. To hollow out that mount point would not be wise engineering. The solid Billet diff cover, done correctly, will spread the load of the torsional forces created by the rear IRS subframe mount over all 10 of the rear bolts (pre load bolts will also take some of this load) which is better than the 5 or 6 used in the steel brace/stock cover setup. Think of the shear (or cross) loading on the these bolts as the cover TRIES to spin off of the diff housing as the housing TRIES to rotate with the driveshaft. I think these guys are having this problem with the steel brace setup because, the other half of the diff housing is still in stock form (i.e. aluminum cover & bolts) and can still move and deform more than the passenger side with the steel IRS brace. The forces I talked about before are still at work. The ring gear and diff are still trying to exit the rearend somewhere out the back toward the drivers side. As they exert force toward the drivers side carrier bearing on the aluminum diff housing, it will deform. I would be interested to see what is breaking and where they are leaking. I would also be interested in their whole car setup, such as HP levels, tires, gears, etc. [/QUOTE]
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03-04 Differential Girdle Cover
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