03-04 cobra fuel set up for E85 few ????

Tornbtwentwo

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OK So I am getting ready to run my fuel system. I have a few questions.
My set up is a 2.2 KB with a 3" pulley. thinking of going with a 4# lower.
E85

I have a Div X fuel hat with 2 GSS342 pumps.
KB Bap.
a 2nd FPDM.
#8 fuel line.
#6 return line
I have a new filter and a aeromotive 13105 regulator.
80# injectors

I am going to get new rails. which i don't have yet.

I don't want a big crossover hose from one rail to the other. So what i was thinking was bringing the hose in from the rear of pass side fuel rail all the way to the front and then use a 180* fitting to connect the the front of the pass rail.

On the back side i would do my crossover. probably two 90* fittings.

Then for the return i would take another 180* fitting from the front of the drivers side rail. run it to the back side of the engine where i would mount my regulator somewhere (firewall??) then take that straight to the tank.

Will this work??? Do i need anything else?? How long of hose do i need??
 

sabotage

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Umm I will post pictures of how I did my fuel system for you tomorrow ......and also why are you running a second fpdm if your going return?
 

GodStang

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Yes when you run a Return system get rid of the FPDM and just run simple relays.
 

sabotage

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hope this helps my feed is on the fron passengerside and the return is below the regulator.....
I will post pictures of my fuel pump wiring later today for you ...
 

Tornbtwentwo

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as for the second fpdm. your right i forgot i wont need that anymore.

sabotage. Thanks for the pictures I would be interested in your wiring pictures.
Is it possible to run 90*'s out of the back or do you have to run 45*

is it possible to run 180* fittings in the front of the rails? to hide most of the fuel lines.
 

Z06KILLR

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I have a -8 Feed from filter to a Y adapter behind engine, then Y out -8 to BACK of each rail, -6 180 out front of each rail to Y to -6 to regulator and -6 back to the tank.
 

Blown38

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as for the second fpdm. your right i forgot i wont need that anymore.

sabotage. Thanks for the pictures I would be interested in your wiring pictures.
Is it possible to run 90*'s out of the back or do you have to run 45*

is it possible to run 180* fittings in the front of the rails? to hide most of the fuel lines.

I ran 90's in the back. driver side I used a fitting with the o ring built on so it was shorter and the passenger side put the male to male adapter and a female 90 to hose end. So it just clears the intake and goes straight across(sags a little so it wouldn't be too short). I'll see if I took some pictures. Found some. The driver fitting is an earls and the rest are summit stuff. With aeroquip hose.

fuelcrossover1.jpg


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Couple more how I ran the feed and return.
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sabotage

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I will not work unless you get a bulk head fitting to extend the passengerside fuel rail or shorten the driverside like posted above. I believe that the straighter the fuel system the more it will flow.
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Iam not trying to put down blown38....his engine bay is really nice. But I have never been a big fan of push look fittings they look horrible imo....And also the less fittings the better, less places to leak fuel and catch your car on fire:shrug:
 
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Blown38

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Iam not trying to put down blown38....his engine bay is really nice. But I have never been a big fan of push look fittings they look horrible imo....And also the less fittings the better, less places to leak fuel and catch your car on fire:shrug:

I went with the push lock fittings cause I heard the others were a bear to assemble. Now that I've worked with both I would probably go with the compression clamp ones. Although I found that vaseline works best to assemble the push lock. I do like the push lock cause they are less bulky. I would not worry about the push lock hose leaking on the fitting. Just have to make sure the AN nuts are tight, and that's with any style hose connection.
 

sabotage

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I went with the push lock fittings cause I heard the others were a bear to assemble. Now that I've worked with both I would probably go with the compression clamp ones. Although I found that vaseline works best to assemble the push lock. I do like the push lock cause they are less bulky. I would not worry about the push lock hose leaking on the fitting. Just have to make sure the AN nuts are tight, and that's with any style hose connection.

very true on the bulky part but in the end its preference.........:shrug:
 

Tornbtwentwo

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perfect i see exactly what needs to be done.Thanks.
I would still like to see more feed and return setups. I am concerned that a 180* at the rail would decrease some flow???

As far as push loks go i love them. i use them at work sometimes. we made a machine to help put them together. then we pressurized the hose to see at what pressure the fittings would blow off. but the line split before the ends blew off

I will not work unless you get a bulk head fitting to extend the passengerside fuel rail or shorten the driverside like posted above. I believe that the straighter the fuel system the more it will flow.
 
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sabotage

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perfect i see exactly what needs to be done.Thanks.
I would still like to see more feed and return setups. I am concerned that a 180* at the rail would decrease some flow???

As far as push loks go i love them. i use them at work sometimes. we made a machine to help put them together. then we pressurized the hose to see at what pressure the fittings would blow off. but the line split before the ends blew off

maybe with high pressure bends in a fuel system dont matter but a good theory i guess:shrug:
I WILL POST PICTURES OF MY WIRING TODAY FOR YOU GUYS...
 

sabotage

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Sorry i took so long to to post them....
1. I ran the positive 4gauge(overkill) wire from the battery to the trunk.
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2.I bought a distribution block at the audio store 4gauge in 3 12gauge out.
you are doing two pumps so its super easy. Get one of these
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I did three pumps so this is what i did
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USE THE GREEN YELLOW AS THE TRIGGER FOR THE RELAY!!!!FUEL CUTTOFF SWITCH SHUTS THE PUMPS OFF IF YOU WRECK!!! HOPE THAT HELPS...
 

da28fan

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I mounted the Y-block directly onto the firewall, driver side. No 180 degree fittings. Put the regulator on the passenger side fenderwell, underneath the intake. Return line leaves there and goes down the passenger side back to the rear. i did not want any lines running over the top of the valve covers and certainly did not want the regulator mounted anywhere near the blower or valve covers. Also did an EGR delete. Looks much cleaner this way.

PS - did not need a boost-a-pump, but did put in a boost-a-spark.
 
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Tornbtwentwo

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Do you Tee into the green and yellow wire for the FPDM or just splice into it. if you splice into it which part do you use? the wire coming FROM the FPDM?? Thanks a ton for the wiring pictures it makes it look easy.

I don't see why i would need the KB BAP with that wiring.

Do you have any pictures of wiring in the new hat from the relays?
Also DA28FAN do you have a picture of your regulator mounted?
 

sabotage

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i mounted the y-block directly onto the firewall, driver side. No 180 degree fittings. Put the regulator on the passenger side fenderwell, underneath the intake. Return line leaves there and goes down the passenger side back to the rear. I did not want any lines running over the top of the valve covers and certainly did not want the regulator mounted anywhere near the blower or valve covers. Also did an egr delete. Looks much cleaner this way.

Ps - did not need a boost-a-pump, but did put in a boost-a-spark.

show us pictures.....
 

sabotage

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Looks really good but the only thing I would change is the tee at the fuel pressure regulator...you can run an aeromotive regulator(part # at summit AEI-13101)like mine that has 2 inlets and one return outlet I caped the sencond inlet .......
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This is how I would do it if I wanted to shoot for more power....picture is shitty but you get the idea...
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