Im looking to go co sometime over the next couple months and was wondering what parts were required and how to do it so I can figure out how much it will cost me. Also what the cons are for going co (if any).
Thanks
Thanks
01 IRS Coilover Conversion
- Thread starter Carbon Driven
- Start date
Look at some of the websites like Maximum Motorsports and Modular Mustang Racing, they have complete coilover kits for front and back. The back is a ton simpler than the front, usually very easy to install. I think the way to go with the front is to get a tubular k-member kit as well. Several companies sell Tubular K-Member kits that include the coilovers. You're probably also going to need the bumpsteer kits and caster/camber plates to set the suspension up properly after you go CO.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Ok Thanks. I see that MM has two different types of IRS coilover sets. Which are the better shocks to go with?
Well, I think it really depends on what you want to do with the car. I bought coilovers from MMR with Comp Engineering 3-way adjustable shocks because my car is a daily driver, as well as a strip car, and an autocross car. If you just want to do one thing, you can buy shocks that are optimized for that purpose. 3-way adjustable shocks are not worth the extra $$$ if you are just using it to cruise around town on the weekends!
:beer:
:beer:
I have the MM coilover kit and tubular front end. I have 350 or 375# front springs and 550# rears. I got the Bilsteins too. I like them. I see no downside to them. Body roll is gone, handling improved and I noticed the car shifts nicer now since the K member install. I run a T56. I would do it again in a second.
I have c/c plates, bumpsteer kit, FLSFC, STB and a rear STB. Car rides fine and handles awesome. I have a nice stance on the car now that allows for some suspension travel w/o rubbing tires.
I have c/c plates, bumpsteer kit, FLSFC, STB and a rear STB. Car rides fine and handles awesome. I have a nice stance on the car now that allows for some suspension travel w/o rubbing tires.
Aren't the rears usually softer then the front? Or does the fact that it's a coilover mean you need stiffer springs?
What rear brace are you running?
The coilover allows for a higher spring rate. I went with what MM suggested for a street car. I spoke to Jason when I ordered.
The Hans Racecraft one. Nice piece. Welds into place and comes with braces you weld to the floor/shock tower joint to add strength. I noticed a difference when driving to and from the chassis shop. I took the same road that I could feel the rear roll a bit, even after coilovers, and it was gone.
I will be using my car as a part time DD, lots of drag and maybe some track racing.
Ive already put over $10K into my engine and tranny build so whats a few more for the rear suspension lol
Tell me more about the adjustibles please. Also if not addjustibles which would be the next choice?
Thanks
The higher spring rate in the rear is because of the location of the shock on the rear control arm.
The front strut/coilover spring are mounted out on the end of the control arm, the rear shocks/coilovers are close to being located in the middle of the rear control arm.
To get the same wheel rate the rear spring rates have to be higher to compensate for their lack of leverage.
If the rear shock/coil spring was further outboard on the control arm more like the front then you'd see more similar spring rates used.
The front strut/coilover spring are mounted out on the end of the control arm, the rear shocks/coilovers are close to being located in the middle of the rear control arm.
To get the same wheel rate the rear spring rates have to be higher to compensate for their lack of leverage.
If the rear shock/coil spring was further outboard on the control arm more like the front then you'd see more similar spring rates used.
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