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I started off planning to rebuild a leaky oil cooler and the "while I'm in there's" ended with me taking off the timing cover to replace the tensioners (both seals were blown and it only occasionally rattled on start up fyi). Unfortunately the timing cover took the front of the oil pan gasket...

I looked briefly and gave up then did the x2 swap and could not tell a difference in steering resistance. I don't think the factory ones were a significant improvement over a normal ball joint.

Thanks that's good info! I've read innovate has some good features but can be hit an miss with a lot of complaints about sensors going bad. I'll have to check out AEMs widebands.

I hope? According to the LC-2 user guide you can specify a specific voltage and lambda for the min and max of the range which implies it can be set to give 1.1 volts at 1.5 lambda (22.5 AFR) but I haven't found where anyone has actually done it. I looked for people doing it on here and corral...

Yeah I'm worried the ECU would try to make sense of the signal when all I need is a way to track the voltage and I can set up a custom PID to do the rest. Will it do anything other than throw a CEL for an odd voltage from the rear O2?

Looking at adding a wideband to a 2003 Cobra and sending its signal to the ECU. Obviously this doesn't normally work but I would like a relatively easy way to datalog the wideband's output. What I am considering is going with the Innovate LC-2 and sending use one of its analog outputs to send...

If you just want an oem style pump rock Auto has several non bosch made pumps, Delphi which is pretty reputable. They also have aviator and Ford GT pumps as well.

You can do what I did and simply replace the bearings, easy to find those and they're straight forward to replace.

X2 I filled it to the service manual spec and thought I had the cover gasket blow out there was so much fluid leaking.

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/useful-diablo-predator-table.813055/ I used a couple of these for custom pids, i don't remember which as it's been a while. You can import a list of ford specific ones as well but they're mainly for diesels.

They're worth doing. I put the MM aluminum ones on years ago and it gave the steering a noticeably more direct feeling. If the steering rack bushings are showing their age then you may want to take a look at the front control arm bushings and ball joints as well, I found one of mine was shot...

I went through this following a dyno day and it was a vacuum leak. The PCV elbow on the back of the blower had failed, I would check there first as it's a common point of failure.

Did you ever verify the inter-cooler pump was working? I may have missed it earlier, but usually that's the first thing everyone goes to when they start boiling off fluid from the reservoir. If it's the pump its a relatively cheap and easy fix. You may want to do it anyways depending on mileage.

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/attempt-at-a-permanent-alternator-fix.1115584/ 3 Years 10K miles, still getting the same voltage as new on a cheaper V6 alternator. The heat from your exhaust manifold is what kills the alternator. If you don't insulate it or cool it you will eventually...

I'm on a normal single disk, but mine behaved the same when my clutch cable needed adjusting.

If your going to go through the effort you might as well do the FTBR kit. There's no sense in going through hours of work to put in new bushings and then trying to save a couple bucks on it. You will find yourself using Bruce's videos anyways. Although I'm biased...

I work in the industry. The only difference between an expensive and cheap battery is the quality control. The vast majority are made in the same handful of plants.

The Chinese don't hold near as much of our debt as most people think.

Good work! Is the IRS making that big of a difference? I assumed that would be a minimal improvement on race tracks but you guys are obviously doing well.

My rear diff had gear whine. That's why I recommended having the differential checked while it's out. The OEM rubber isolated the diff to the point I had no idea it was whining. It's not bad, I can't hear it with the radio on or ac on high. If you Google 8.8 gear whine there is YouTube video...

Still going strong but its only been 2,500 miles so too soon to tell probably.

I made a heat shield for my alternator. I don't know if it's as effective but its way less work.

If you spend time at the dragstrip you will appreciate it. I've TRIED to make it hop and it won't at my power level (ported and 2.93 pulley).

This is what I did... https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/attempt-at-a-permanent-alternator-fix.1115584/ New build V6 alt converted to our post and pulley.

First of all big thanks to Bruce and the team at FTBR! The kit is well engineered and made, any issues I had during installation were from Ford's "good enough" approach to the IRS. I ordered the FT 5001 kit with the Ford Racing diff cover and I highly recommend anyone else considering replacing...