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Alibi, yeah that's true, but sometimes it doesn't work when you buy from a dealer. As long as the hardware was there and in good shape, which it was, the car was a steal. I paid bone stock GT price (used) for it. If it was from the owner that did the mods, that would be another matter...

Thanks, Chuck. Will do.

Timely thread. I just unloaded my '03 Cobra for a '16 GT/CS. Cobra had a Whipple 2.3 and was really fast. The new car is a whole lot more comfortable. Cobra was my DD as is the 'Stang. Get the late model 'Stang. You'll be a lot more comfortable in it as a DD, and this is from a 12 year...

OK, sounds stupid, but.....just traded my '03 Cobra for a 2016 GT/CS convertible. Came with a VMP S/C installed, but no documentation at all. Got it at a Ford dealer of all places, and the car was priced so the S/C setup was essentially free. Don't have any experience with VMP stuff...

Timely thread. Just traded the Terminator for a '16 GT/CS convertible with VMP supercharger. Had the Terminator for 12 years as my DD and it was past time. Ran perfectly but it was showing its age. If you want a DD, get the later model car, whatever it turns out to be. Just a weekend racer...

Well that would explain it. Thanks for the replies. Alignment check it is!

Just broke the second of two MMS replacement clutch cables in 9 months. Have a 3 hook aluminum quadrant, firewall adjuster and Spec Stage 2+ clutch with reduced pedal pressure; it's nowhere near as hard as a stock clutch. Both times, the cable snapped at the quadrant end. Supposedly the MMS...

Hey thanks for the comment. Yeah, "do more leg presses" is advice given by people who don't use their cars as DDs in heavy city traffic. I'm going with the RST after all the comments made.

This car has all the power it's going to get. Has 118k on it; don't want to blow it up. That said, I have a CF dual friction clutch in another car and it's really good. That one only does 450/450 at the crank. Conservatively, the Cobra does 650/600 at the crank. Not sure the DF is rated to...

These suggestions are what I needed. As it happens the cable is brand new and was lubed before installation. Yes, it's a MM reproduction cable. The pedal effort with the Spec Stage 2+ (low effort plate) is ok. . Regular Stage 2 or Stage 2+, not so much. I don't want to change the clutch to...

OK, this is really helpful... No doubt the HP isn't enough to need a dual disk to hold it. I wasn't sure about the pedal effort on a Centerforce DFX, another Spec or anything similar - I had a Spec Stage 2 in it at one time and that was a real PITA in traffic. So is the factory clutch. It's my...

Thanks for the replies. The Spec 2+ is also lighter peal pressure than stock and it's supposed to hold 650. I'm leaning toward a dual disk for the reasons P49Y-CY says. Any particular brand you prefer? I read good and bad about McLeod RST/RXT but have no info on anyone else's.

Looks like clutch time. Currently has a Spec stage 2+/low pedal effort plate. Spec doesn't seem to make these any more or I'd just replace it; it's an ok street clutch. What do you guys recommend for a DD with the same or lower pedal effort. Dual disk is ok by me if that's the way to go...

Dude, you're giving away your too-young age. The correct expression for us old guys is, "There is no substitute for cubic inches." Having said that, with 15 years of Ford showroom-available boosted cars, yes, there IS a substitute for cubic inches. It's called a blower. The only reason GM is...

Sorry to be so late to the party, but was searching the forum and this tread was really interesting. I had to replace my clutch cable a few days ago and found my release fork almost jammed up against the back of the opening. It was in the correct place (about midway in the opening) when I...

Thanks! That's exactly what I needed to know. The answer seemed intuative, but you can't substitute actual experience. No point in spending the $ if there isn't going to be a noticeable benefit. Just to clear up a couple of things in the thread, if by "braking efficiency" you mean braking...

Don't want to hijack the thread, but what would be a good choice for keeping 13" front rotors so stock SVT wheels will fit? Would any of the 4 or 6 piston aftermarket kits or the Cobra R conversion give a seat of the pants improvement in braking over the stockers?

Those plugs look clean. Too rich leaves "fluffy" black deposits on the ground electrode and on the threads. Don't see anything that looks fluffy on any of your pics.

They're plain NT555s. New back tires it is, then. Thanks, guys. FWIW, I did have NT555 drag radials on it until last year. Tire store told me to wait two weeks before stomping the gas or they'd rotate on the wheels. They were right....lol.

Been 2 years since a full head cleanup put the beast back in shape. Now Im stumped. Lately its been breaking the tires loose at light part throttle in 2nd and even 3rd ( rolling at 50 mph!). Thought the traction loc might be going out but there are two nice, clean, even rear tire marks in my...

Long post - bear with me here...... After 97,000 miles, 25k of which has been Whipple 2.3 blasted, my motor is getting sick. Definitely some exhaust getting into the water - open the reservoir when it's hot and the coolant is foamy and has a distinct exhaust smell. One or two cylinders...

Been having some trouble with one or more cylinders misfiring under load. Idle and light part throttle engine runs perfect. Compression and leakdown tests are good. Ford factory diagnostic tool doesn't find any misfire counts. Running NGK TR6 plugs gapped at .037, they have about 25,000 on...

Just finished my Spec 3+ install and 26-spline input shaft conversion. It's great. Almost like driving a GT, only it's fast....lol. Question: How much slack should I put in the clutch cable? I'd put in a FRPP aluminum quadrant a couple years ago; the factory self adjusting quadrant keeps...

Having a little fun toying with an S197 GT on the way to a client meeting last Friday (just dropped in in 4th and left him in the dust) when suddenly there was a loud "POP" and the motor started running as if a couple of cylinders were misfiring. Immediately backed off the gas, coasted back to...

Have a lash adjuster that leaks down when the engine is off. Gives me a healthy, loud ticking noise at the cam follower until it pumps up (about a minute or so). It's only a matter of time. Any way to get these out without tearing the whole front of the motor off and pulling the cams?