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Agree. I replaced my IRS subframe bushings as well as the diff bushings (front & rear) to include the IRS front brace (Paul’s). I didn’t do the rear upper & lower control arm bushings. But I did replace the front lower control arm bushings with Steeda’s as well as their lower ball joint. There...

I’ve had the Eibach springs on my ‘99 Cobra almost since the car was new. They work great on the track or daily driven. Have the Koni adjustable Yellow shocks all around. They also work great. The car has over 60,000 miles and I have no complaints. BTW: Still have the stock sway bars front &...

From the other thread regarding identifying lower intake manifolds that have been modified on the ‘99s: “...the first ~100 intakes were extrude honed and are identified with a blue dot on front left side of lower intake...the other intakes were made from an acid dipped core & and are marked with...

The ‘99 (and I think ‘01) blocks have the first version of the spray-bore technology. So I don’t think you will be boring this block. That also means sleeving may not be possible (although I’m not an expert on that aspect). Good luck.

There was also a recall for a strange sound in the rear end that occurred when turning while going over a hump of some kind. Turned out, the sway bar was shifting left or right and hitting something. So that recall installed a small collar on each side of the sway bar bushings to keep the bar...

I think the new rear knuckles have a different color insert. I don’t have a pix right now. But I think that’s how you can tell. The first recall was for “The Vibe”. I picked up my car in Jacksonville, FL and drove it home to TX. When I got above about 70 mph, the inside rear view mirror...

The belt tensioner fix was a separate recall. Some folks were having their belts jump off the pulleys, so they came up with a bracket to keep the tensioner tight. See Pix. If you have this extra black bracket, you have the tensioner recall completed as well.

Maybe I missed it in the OP, but the original article from Lincoln about this new platform stated one of the reasons to turn the engine 90 degrees was to make it easier for all-wheel drive. Put that in the mix as well.

Yes, the 1999’s got the fix and the 2001’s came already fixed. My ‘99 got all the mods noted and has colored dots on the lower intake. I won’t be near the car to take pictures for another week or so. Sorry about that. Not sure what the part number is for the lower intake for the 2001’s. But...

I use the BMR bolts and Maximum Motorsports cambe/caster plates. And I track a lot. Together, I can get 3 degrees camber. works great.

The driver’s should not have any oil in it unless you have serious blow-by inside the engine creating an over pressure the passenger side can’t ventilate. It won’t hurt anything to install it. But if you ever find oil in it, there is probably something wrong inside the engine.

My ‘99 Cobra aluminum block has the same process. Teksid (SP?) made the blocks back then. That car has 66K miles and dozens of track events. At the last several events, it was shared by my two boys. So it was used 8-10 sessions/day. No oil use at all. I’m beginning to lose track of the...

Sorry. I thought we were talking about bump steer. The stabilizer bar has nothing to do with that. I left that component stock and have had no issues.

I think he meant to say the “steering tie rods” should be parallel to the ground.

Whew!

If you are collecting oil on the driver’s side, you have crankcase blow by blowing into the intake tract. That is not good. Should not have crankcase over-pressure unless things (rings, valve stem seals, etc.) are leaking. Or maybe a big blower? Burning excess oil?

Its a very easy install. No gauge required. Just use all the spacers to make the tie rod end link as low as possible, then get an alignment. You will find that after you lower the car, that bump steer is so bad, it takes all of the adjustment you can get to bring it back to close. Hence the...

Ford Performance on passenger side only. Works great and simple to install & use. You should never get any oil on the drivers side. If you do, something has gone terribly wrong inside the engine. Don’t waste your money on that one.

Once I lowered my ‘99 Cobra, I had massive bump steer issues. I raised the rack (with offset bushings) and installed the end-link bump steer kit to get it all back under control.

Sorry to hear about yours. Mine have been installed since mid-2001, and the car has over 60K miles. About 1/2 of that as a daily driver; the rest to/from, or on a track. So they are pretty tough.

I have the Eibach Pro-Kit. Part # 3590.140 The brake ducts were made by Mid-Continent Mustangs. Not sure they are still around: https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/brake-cooling-ducts.295546/ I see on the last page of that blog a new provider...

Mine doesn’t seem to use any at all. It always shows as full on the dipstick. Car has over 3K miles, nearly all of that on the track or to & from a track. My experience is that those who use the engine for braking use more oil than the rest. Never do that: Use the brakes for slowing, engine...

I’ve had Eibachs on my ‘99 Cobra for a very long time (almost since the car was new). They work great and I would never remove them. Have Koni Yellow adjustable shocks all around. Also work great for the street and the track. I use Hawk HP+ Brake pads with Dot 5 fluid. If you are going to...