Had new PS pump replaced. They also replaced the high pressure line from pump to hydroboost as the old one was leaking badly when they put it back on. It seems like it may still be leaking somewhat. To double check: Should the Teflon seal be visible like this?
It's also whining at high RPMs...
Finally getting around to replacing the PS pump before my next track day. Should I also replace the lines (esp. high-pressure lines), or if they aren't leaking is it better to not mess with them?
Thanks, that's about what I figured. I have no reason to suspect anything is wrong and figured compression would be a quick health check. If something seems wrong I'd have put in the extra effort for a leakdown test.
Decided to do a compression test for a health check and pretty happy with the results. All were 150-152, with 4x 150, 1x151, 3x152. Doesn't seem too bad for a 22 year old car.
Edit: the consistency (which I know is the main thing to look for) seems great, but are the results low overall? All...
Going to try Amsoil Severe Gear 75-110 instead of RP Max Gear 75-90*. I didn't put any friction mod in with the RP, do folks add any with the Severe Gear? I didn't think the amoils had any already in there, but their site does say "Contains friction modifiers for limited-slip applications" My...
thanks. I actually bought a Motive a bit ago but this will be my first time using it, as I need to get fresh fluid in both the Cobra and M5 for track time.
Oof, I have the coolant drained and the stud out but I can not find a way to get it off/over the O-ring for where the coolant comes through the adapter. Anyone done this before and have any tips? I've only seen stuff on the terms, but they seem to have more room to get a small pry bar up there...
Thanks, and good point on the ABS. SS hoses so no clamps. I'll see if I can find an appropriate nut, or maybe just try doing the trick where one has something hold the brake pedal down a bit to stop the flow from the reservoir
Thanks all. So should I try putting (M10×1.0) nuts on the banjo bolts after I remove them from the caliper or just let all the fluid drain? I know I'll have to bleed either way, just not sure if it's better to try and keep most of it in there or let it out.
Continuing my parade of "it's old enough to smoke and taking it on track broke it", I've found my piston dust boots are cracked on the front. Normally I'd just buy some reman Cardones, but I'd be sad (likely) losing the COBRA logo, already own sets of the seals/boots, and the job doesn't look...
Because I do open track with this car I can't donthat without putting in a proper oil cooler. That would be superior, but not sure I want to drop ~$900 on the RoadRace 1 kit.
I'm almost positive its the large oring on the cooler closest to the face, given its leaking coolant from the front. I believe the stud O-rings are on oil and would be leaking towards the middle.
Anyways, liquid cooling is a PITA, but I unfortunately need a cooler as I do open tracking. An...
Looks like they are. LMR also has a kit for significantly cheaper. Doesn't come with the hex socket, but I don't need that. Not sure if there's another reason to do Speed Concepts.
Still don't get why it doesn't leak until the stud is tightened.
Looks like no dice. Curiously it's like when I tried tightening the filter. Didn't seem to leak when the stud is hand tight but when i get it up to spec it starts to leak coolant, though very slowly. I'm wondering if the outer o-ring was damaged when the cooler rotated in the housing. either...
thanks. I'm hoping it stops leaking now that I've tightened it but will let it sit a while before feeling comfortable. the other thing I don't know is if I've caused a problem by having the cooler itself rotate with the filter when it was first coming out.
doing my oil change for 20th time (or whatever) and it was unusually hard to get off. Not sure if it's because it really got stuck on there with the heat from track driving or because I did it with the car cold*. While initially getting it to move I noticed the entire "face" (in blue) was...
Currently have fairly fresh motorcraft plats in. I was going to pull and check the plugs while replacing the boots and springs and figured I'd see if there's a different plug I should switch to.
Is there any performance reason to pick a different plug than the TR55IX for an N/A car with just a JLT and catless exhaust? I know coppers like the regular TR55 and autolite 764 are cheaper, but the price difference isn't a concern for me, so just interested in performance differences.
PS I installed the steeda adjustable, and while it fixed my issue with slack in the cable, everyone is right, it is inferior to stock. I'll get one from MM if they ever get them back in stock.
Nice. i also wonder if Lethal (@Jake@Lethal) or LMR would be interested in picking up some of the rear bars. Between IRS swaps, folks replacing rusted stockers*, and people like us looking to dial out understeer for the track, I think there's opportunity to sell some.
*I know mine is pretty...
Moot point now as I'm not taking the trans off again to put in the associated TOB, but my understanding of hydraulic clutch kits is they didn't work with the DOHCs because they wouldn't fit with the larger head in the way. Besides, it's a good left-leg workout. =)
As far as the TOB being...
I did not do it myself but the person who did has a lot of experience with SN-95/New Edges and foxes. Prior to the install it was pretty far out on the firewall adjuster but hadn't maxed it out. now it's not tight even with it maxed.
I did also replace the pivot stud and clutch fork, but not...
*shrugs* the Q&A on AmericanMuscle seems adamant that it has to be that quadrant. Whether true or not, I won't risk it. The regular Steeda quadrand has two hooks, but unfortunately the "quick release" version I have is only one.
I will say, I was a little surprised that there was more slack...