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You could have made the same calculation in one step. You multiply 617 x 1.15 to get the same number. The 1.15 is 15%. Get it? The other thing I'll say is no one cares about crank HP. The only thing that matters is what you're putting down to the ground.

No it will not. The headers fit through the kmember. It must be the old qa1. The thp kit is off the table unless they include the right kmember that was sold with the kit. That's all I'm gonna say about it. If you choose to not listen it will be a very costly mistake.

It cannot be purchased new, it needs to be from the time period the kits were made and sold. Ask the seller to include it with the kit. Yes the battery needs to goto the trunk.

I have one of the original THP kits still on my car. It's been modified somewhat, but still the same for the most part. Solid buy there, but make sure it comes with the original period correct (early-mid 2000's) QA1 k-member or it's not going to fit. The new style QA1's are different.

Something that needs to be considered is packaging size. The Borg based turbos are considerably larger than Precisions offerings. If they are going in between the engine and radiator, it's something that needs to be considered. Chances are CG has a menu of what turbos fit best with their kit.

Precision 6062 Gen2 or 6266 Next Gen. The thing with turbos is the top end power will suck you in to wanting more. So 900 today, tomorrow 1100, it never stops.

For the price of those, you would be WAY better off getting custom cams from Todd Warren. He will spec them to your combo and make em any way you want em. Ones you can use with stock valve springs, big cam chop or whatever else you may want. They will make more power than any off the shelf...

My best dragy runs from the last summer. This was on rolling anti-lag with a 200lb passenger, 120lbs of ballast in the trunk and full tank. So about 4100lbs I'd guess. I think I could get into the 3.6x/2.8x range if I spent some more time on it and got some weight out of the car.

What do you do with your car? Do you just cruise around and go to car shows, or do you hit up Mexico on the weekends and want to maybe win once in awhile? If it's the latter, here is what I would do. Go to e85 without a doubt, so invest in a fuel system. Why stop at a 50 shot? I had a 200...

This is why you don't fix things that aren't broken.

My buddy has a company called Street Car Injection. Can find on Facebook

Bosch 210's gum up, that's why I got rid of em. They can stick open, stick shut or anything in between. They are an awesome injector for the price, but they require maintenance. I used to send mine in yearly to get cleaned after sitting in winter. Now I have Deka 220's which are stainless...

I would recommend not reusing your pistons and do a custom size with a minimal overbore. The block will hold up, but when you need a rebuild you're already at the end of the line with it. Your money, do what you want. I'm on my 2nd hone job on my current engine and there is room for one more...

Did you go .020" over on both blocks? You can see in your pic how thin the liner is on an iron block. The recipe for 'big' power on mod motors has been the same for quite a long time now. Aluminum block with a minimal overbore and a custom sized piston. Your power level, any of the aluminum...

I don't know what the fascination with the stock cluster is personally. It's really just a bunch of dumb gauges. The only things of value are RPM, Speed and gas level. But you can do all that with a Holley dash and step into modern times. To each their own though!

You can use the stock cluster with Holley too. I know a guy who modifies the harness so it's a plug n play deal, his name is Nate Hensley. https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100075901610919

You can still get factory OE Carlite glass. Any glass installer can get it, or you can order the windshield from the dealer. My suggestions is use an independent local glass installer. https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-windshield-yr3z6303100aa

How up is she on the market for these cars? I would hit her at $27k and see what she says.

That crankshaft is easily repaired by a competent crank shop. They will weld and grind it .010" so you will use oversize bearings. You will also be able to reuse your rods. The block I would recommend doing a minimal overbore to make the cylinders true and do a custom sized piston. 9.5...

Switch to Nitto nt555r2's. Way more consistently fast street tire and doesn't ball up like junk mickeys do. I've had my 325/50/15's on for 3 seasons now.

I'd like to do this on my car. Would probably drop 40-50lbs.

If you were truly interested in 'reliability' as your main goal, then you would be making the switch to e85. I also agree with the others that you are making a mistake going right to .020 over. The price for a custom piston is barely different and so what if you can get pistons next week...

Your best bet dollars wise is you and a few buddies pull the motor and disassemble. This would be a good time to move to an aluminum block and drop 85lbs. Find a good one that just needs a minor hone to clean it up and you will order a custom piston then. You will be able to reuse your crank...

I got the MOOG one on Rock Auto last year. Nice quality and working fine so far, been 175mph with it.

If you are overshooting boost, you have something else going on. You can sure re-plumb it and switch to option 1 and see if something changes.