You didn't notice any difference in the way the car handles after removing it? I have the Stifflers Fit System so maybe I will be ok without it. I want my car lower but that brace hangs so low and is a messy pain in the ass with oil changes.
I run Nitto NT-01's that are just like the 888R's. Great when warm on a second gear hit. It's a 100TW tire but I have had them for 4 years/ 7K miles and may need to replace this year. No standing burnout's though or they would be long gone:)
Yes, they should fit without a spacer and not rub assuming you have the low pro bolt from MM or FTBR. I had the NT-05R's on the back before and they looked skinny with 315's compared to the NT-01's. Traction is great in 2nd gear and up even when stabbing the throttle it may slip for a sec and...
Here is mine with F-275/35/18 Nitto N555 G2's and R-315/30/18 Nitto NT-01. I have H&R race springs with iso's and a MM 1/4" spacer. I rolled the fenders due to spacer, but does not rub without the spacer.
Never heard anyone put it that way, but I feel the same way as you, lol. We almost have the same power and close to the same mods with stock shocks and H&R Race springs. I have the Stifflers Fit System and their front strut bar and still feel like it's taking off when under hard acceleration...
Obviously need breathers or catch can, but this will help with crankcase pressure: https://www.c-f-m.com/performanceparts/pc/Valve-Cover-Breathers-c744.htm
CFM Performance valve cover breather is the only breather on the market which incorporates a check ball to keep unmetered air from coming...
Bought the UPR double bearing idler 4pc set last year on Black Friday for around $265. Everything is great so far and I like the black look. Hard to justify spending double on the Metco's when these were on sale .
This reason: AFCO Heat Exchangers are considerably larger than their stock counterparts. This provides a greater surface area and more capacity. AFCO Heat Exchangers reduce supercharger coolant temperatures by more than 40 degrees.
Swapped out all brake pads with Hawk HPS 5.0, bleed the brakes and put in fresh fluid, and installed Stiffler's SS brake lines. Big shout out to SLOWBRA for helping me learn how to do this and offering up his tools and lift!
I did not check as it's a pain in the ass to get to. I should have checked it better while on the lift. It's the same problem as the other guy who just made thread called Front Cover Leak under terminator talk. They were saying it's probably the oil filter adapter gasket.. I hope as that is...
I have an oil leak and it appears to start around this bolt. It always has oil on it about to drip. I tried to tighten it but it was not moving. I don't know if it's a front cover leak or something else.
It on the drivers side above oil filter
Any help is appreciated.
If you use that Delrin bushing you need the FRPP "NOTCHED" diff cover. This will also line up the pinion angle better. My car had the clunk bad and I put in the FTBR aluminum diff bushings, FRPP notched cover, the bushing above, and cradle bolts. Clunk is gone! I have no other FTBR bushings...