Search results

Sure, this is the model that I installed in the Cobra back when I swapped the factory seats out. I think they have newer styles available too if you're looking for something a little different.

Also, I'm partial to black Cobras :)

Honestly, if the roller is nice and rust free, the amount of time you'd spend trying to make a beat up body look straight would probably be better invested in taking your running gear from the current car and swapping it over. Just my 2 cents, but body work usually goes down the rabbit hole...

Honestly, parts like that I pretty much exclusively just rely on junkyards at this point. The good thing is that it should just be a standard SN95 part, and there's plenty of dead 6 bangers out there to grab parts from.

That's the supply for the heater core, it's probably leaking from the rubber hose. The later blocks have a nipple with o-rings that slides on, but we have a rubber hose connection onto a fixed nipple with the Teksid blocks.

Just spot checked my 97 FSM, looks like those specs are accurate: 15-22 lb-ft for the adapter to block bolts, and 41-53 lb-ft for the center stud.

I'll second Corbeaus, I replaced my seats with the Trailcats and never looked back. I would 100% recommend using their seat brackets, I tried the adapters and they just didn't work.

If it's just the adjusters, you can buy a set of them from LMR, especially if you have a decent set of headlights. No need to swap them out for a new set that may or may not have decent build quality. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-13032A/1994-98-Mustang-Headlight-Pivot...

100% agree, the factory shop manuals are a wealth of knowledge. I scored a used FSM from a bulk reseller on Ebay about 5 years ago, they must not have known the true value because I got it for a steal.

If you want to go the Terminator thicker steering wheel route, I did it to my car about 3 years ago, dyed it the correct black for our interiors, and it still looks just as good as the day I installed it: Terminator Double Wrapped Wheel Install

I don't believe so, they're still visible on mobile and on desktop.

Yeah, I'm sure if I had done some prep work we'd have been able to save some money, but I'm happy with the price for driving it to the shop and then picking it up. I'm just excited to get the motor gone through!

Not at all! So, we provided replacement bumpers, belt moldings, cowl panel, emblems, door handles, and hinges. With those parts taken out of the equation, we ended up at 8700. That included front and rear glass removal and replacement. Honestly, the car was pretty straight from the get go, there...

So, I've posted on here before that the paint on my 97 was pretty terrible, as most factory paint jobs are now 24 years on. We delivered the car on 09/01 to the painters after waiting over a year for a spot, and we just picked it up yesterday. I have to say, I'm in love with this car all over...

Might want to do some more research, since yes in fact mid year 98 Ford moved to a returnless style fuel system. As far as why you have braided line? Who knows, most likely parts availability. Regardless, if it isn't leaking, and you aren't experiencing fuel issues, no point getting worked up...

I'd defer to some of the more knowledgeable members, since I own a 97, but wasn't 98 the first year of the returnless fuel systems for Mustangs?

Here's the bleeding procedure from the 97 FSM, hopefully that will help diagnosing/repairing your issues.

I would tend to agree that the whine is most likely either the throw out bearing or the pilot bearing going bad. Do you know if the steering shaft is in good shape? If the rubber coupler was rotting away, that could cause some looseness. Otherwise, I'd totally attribute the brakes/steering to...

With it going away after idling, I'd look towards the timing components, or lash adjusters. My engine had a similar noise on startup and stayed around until it idled for a few minutes and the oil pumped up the adjusters.

MAJOR UPDATE: So, after getting it reassembled, it was running great. I had it holding at around 2500 rpm, waiting to come up to temp, when I heard a loud snap, and the car started running like crap. I shut it off immediately, and freaked the #$%^ out. After pulling the valve covers and cranking...

One more adjuster to go. As an aside, the driver's side exhaust valve train is nearly impossible to access. Add in the fact that I definitely wasnt pulling the hydroboost and it gets tight. I think I spent around 20 minutes on the rear most valve. You have zero room for error, especially with...

Thanks, it has 165000 indicated, probably more since the odometer gear was broken. I installed a JLT catch can around 15000 miles ago, and I get a pretty decent amount of oil from it.

Well, with the paint shop appointment rapidly approaching on Wednesday, I decided to finally bite the bullet and fix the tap at startup, as well as install the MMR IMRC delete plates I've had sitting around for a while. I spent around 6 hours today, and I'm on the home stretch. Every secondary...

Search for Four Seasons part number 26781. Should have all of the pieces you need, including some spare shrader valves that you won't use.

So, the port itself will unscrew from the line, but in my experience they can be stubborn if it's been on there a while. Unfortunately, this design didn't use standard Schrader valves, leading to the leaky rubber variants we have on our cars. If you want, you could buy the kit that has new...