Use a Ford control pack for simplicity.
Gotta make some decisions early…
what transmission you’re going to use?
Power steering & brakes or manual?
Air conditioning?
Staying NA or boost in the future?
The belt shrapnel destroyed the front cover crank seal
Put the OEM harmonic balancer back on and the HD belt fit. Taught, but not too tight. Runs smooth, no belt drive noise.
Curious to see if this has any impact on the belt slip issue I’ve been battling forever.
Gates no longer manufactures a heavy duty 82-1/2” belt or anything close. I found a Gates HD 81-3/4 but it’s too small and pulls the tensioner into the harmonic balancer.
I’m going to try reinstalling the OE balancer in lieu of the 10% OD Innovation West one I have now.
Pulled the IW HB off...
I got on the freeway, it was wide open, so I went WOT but it felt sluggish. Peeked at the gauge, no boost. AC wasn’t cold anymore and the voltage dropped. I knew I belt shredded. No one ever tries to race me. As soon as the belt broke I got over to get off the next exit when a Firebird pulls up...
Also tried a couple more things to address the belt slip issue.
I noticed the HD tensioner was touching the alternator. Little grinding fixed that.
Swapped out the pulley with a Griptec
The intercooler bricks are weak, so most people reinforce them.
I had an 2011 for 3 years, would still have it if I didn’t get hit, and it was an amazing car. Had a few mods (pulley, tune, E85 & headers) and it still drove like stock unless you got into it. Really comfortable and reliable...
With a $8,000 budget, OP would have to get real creative and do the swap himself. The engine, control pack, fuel system, exhaust and k-member is going to take up most of the budget and leave him with a transmission that can’t handle then power. I don’t think a Coyote swap is his best option...
I had a serious buyer lined up. They were planning to fly out to Las Vegas and drive the car back to Georgia.
They asked if I could get the AC working, so I called a guy out to charge the system.
Got the Freon added, but the condenser wasn’t kicking on, so I bypassed the high pressure...
Had the new Victory Wheels wrapped with some fresh Nittos. NT555 upfront, NT01 rear.
Man, the car has never been better! Power, handling and braking all on point. I’m very happy with the current all-around performance of this car.
IG: @does_not_listen
This 6-piston caliper, 14” 2- piece rotor kit from Reaper Brakes is really nice. Comes with everything you need to install. No modifications needed, bolt-on kit.
Stock v. Reaper
For bleeding, I tried the vacuum kit from Harbor Freight, no luck.
Motive Pressure Bleeder kit seemed...
Grabbed some rear calipers from a Taurus with the 43mm piston.
Cleaned, rebuilt with new seals, gaskets & slide pins. Advanced Auto’s Paint Department was able to mix some paint to match my front calipers and put it in a can.
When I put them next to the old Cobra calipers for this photo...
The idle wasn’t completely smooth while stopped. Found out there’s a thing called “fan washout” where the radiator fan messes with the MAF since the sensor is really close to the filter. Trimmed the JLT filter shroud to fit, now the idle is smooth as glass.
IG: @does_not_listen