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Went with BMR bolt-in relo brackets and added noticeably more NVH. Tried re-adjusting, torquing bolts, etc and could never dial it in. Almost seemed like there was still some flex/pivoting/movement under load. Didn't notice any benefit to having them on the street or road course, so i ditched...

For what it's worth, I found the LCA re-lo bracket to be the source of lots of unpleasant noises, so I removed them. Poly-end LCA alone shouldn't make too much noise, if installed properly.

Agree with what several others stated - This is an aesthetic mod, not a functional one. I have been using the brackets for about 4.5 Years and about 40K miles. DD + 2-3 HPDE days per year and they work great. You get a little bit of advantage of extra area for heat dissipation with the...

Any recommendations on brands? Most of my forum (SVTP and others) research pointed to using factory cats if you don't go down the long-tube route. Sounds like a lot of bad experiences with 'hi-flow' and other aftermarket cat options.

I have a 2011. Also, pulled the cats today and did a visual inspection and the look pretty good. No melted gunk, honeycomb looks in tact, just some light debris. Debating cleaning them and just replacing the four O2 sensors and calling it good.

Not interested in headers. Considered OR pipe, but since I track at places with 96db limit and commute to work (not wanting to smell like gas), couldn't really go that route. From doing some research, very few options on catted mid with stock manifolds...and those who went down this path gave...

Hi All Went for a short mountain drive last weekend and threw a coil pack/ignition CEL. Then I noticed i was getting about 50-miles per 1/4 tank (much less than normal). Also had a rattle that I thought was a loose side pipe bolt. Finally, started pulling coil packs to replace them this...

I couldn't stand my RXT and my mechanic said the same things as yours. Chatter, harsh engagement, vibration...Almost got rid of the car I was so disappointed in the drivability. I finally dumped it and went with a stock '13/'14 kit and couldn't be happier. I can't speak to HP ability on this...

You can buy new brake hardware kits (anti-rattle clips, boots, bolts) at Autozone, the dealership or online. They are not terribly expensive. I'd recommend cleaning the rear pistons with a lot of brake cleaner and lightly lube up the dust seals and grease the pad contact points (edges). Are...

Very limited 'hard shifts' for me durning events. Sometime a few quick heal-toe downshifts, but nothing crazy.

I've been happy with Mobil1 for the diff and trans...DD with 2-3 HPDE days per year.

How many miles on the clutch? My TOB exploded at 75K and had to get towed to the dealership.

I purchased the 2011-12 specific FRPP kit and bolted them on. Had to cut the existing OTA pipes (with a sawzall) and clamp it in place, but not that hard of a job on jack stands.

I have them on my 2011...All other components are stock. Sounds amazing!

The billet aluminum bracket on the top right...Purchased it off a forum member a few years back.

Brake upgrade for the street are a tricky topic because there is a perception vs reality phenomena going on. Most upgrade you hear or read about don't do much for normal street driving. For example, you will not get any 'feel' difference by upgrading to FRPP lines...They will take heat...

Looks like there was plenty of life left from the pict...I squeezed 75K out of the original stock clutch. The slave (throw out bearing) broke so I proactively replace the clutch.

They fit on my '11 with the inexpensive gasket kit from AM to fill a small gap...I believe the '11 and '12 have the same rear bumper\tail light setup.

Want one!

I run a square setup on 18x9.5 (non-stock) wheels on the track - 275/40/18. Rides great and handles great for HPDE, so I'd assume the setup would work well for the street too.

If you do enough HPDE you will get a separate setup of rim\tires just for the track (i resisted as long as I could)...Let the garage clean-out begin :-)

I live in AZ, so 'cold' around here is in the 50's. I notice some rear wheel spin with temps in the mid-50's...much more pronounced then the Connis, but better than the OEM GYs. The 555G2's are very drivable, but any aggressive move (punch it on a ramp, quick pass, etc) and I feel them break...

Been running 555 G2 for about a year now (street only) and they are a solid value, but can get squirrelly quick (wet or cold). I prefer the Continentals, but the G2's were an economical choice at the time.

I did mine on jack-stands a few years ago (cant find my write up on the site anymore :-( ). The job is not easy, but I took my time and got it done. Few suggestions: Disconnect the shock and sway bar to lower the rear suspension (jack at the rear pinch welds). Access into the upper rear is...