One really nice thing about the Vert is it is much easier to work on the interior with the top down. Taking the seats out for example.
I don't drive with the top down very much due to bad allergies. Something I did not think about when I bought the car.
I have not seen any evidence of a leak on the garage floor, but I have not looked under the car lately. When I have a chance I will take a look and let you know.
I decided to change both belts as a preventive maintenance measure. My car is stock. I got the Continental belts for both. The new inner belt was just a bit too small and I could not get it on. Perhaps if I had another set of hands? I got the Motorcraft belt and it was just a tad bit longer...
If you look at the photos of the hubs on Rockauto for both the Timken and Motorcraft the bearing and the hub are stamped "Koyo". Pics are not always representative but it makes you wonder. Another Amazon selection that has a pair of Timken hubs shows the same Koyo stamps.
I saw the problems posted about the stock shifter. I put in a Tick Shifter on day one. For seals I found the SKF 16725 and the TIMKEN 7300S. They both have the spring, metal housing, and the boot. Not sure if they are the correct ones.
Yikes, brand new transmission came with bad seal. Very small leak that I just noticed when under the car. No leak on the garage floor. Probably only 100 miles or less of driving on it. Sigh!
You can google "transmission rollover noise" and/or "transmission box of rocks". It is quite normal to hear it on some T56s but my question is why it does it more when the A/C is on.
I finally got my car running again and I am trying to get used to it and the Tick Shifter. The Shifter is quite stiff making the 1 to 2 shift a bit different since one has to put a lot of pressure to keep it in the 1-2 gate. I read that the shifter loosens up after a while. The other shifts...
I have a MG Vert 29K miles mostly stock. Transmission was replaced with a T56 Magnum. I am not sure how to price it since the Magnum, Tick shifter, driveshaft, and related parts cost about $6K. Some issues with the driver side front and rear windows that I am going to fix before posting for sale.
Tip: If the cap can't be removed easily then try warming up the engine first. It does not take much. When warm try to just break it loose a bit and then you should be able to take it off when after it cools down.
As others have said the o-ring seals the cap and it just needs to be snug when...
I went through the rebuilt vs new Magnum decision and the cost of two way shipping and repair cost vs the Lethal kit and I decided to go wit the Magnum kit. I am still working on my Magnum install. I am using a single disc clutch, but I am still having to grind the fork and such so don't under...
Check the gasket on the cap and pressure test the cap. You can also use the same pressure tester to see if the system holds pressure.
I do this every oil change as you never know when the cap starts to not hold the correct pressure. You can also do the same procedure on the intercooler.
Good points regrind the pivot ball, clutch stack height, etc. I said this in another post that the pivot ball height should be checked anytime you change flywheel and/or clutch package. I had the wrong release point happen to me and I did not like driving the car that way.
I had a cap that would not hold pressure. It tightened with a click OK. Turns out that the rubber seal inside was warped just slightly but enough not to seal properly. I just bought a new cap.
Thanks for all the input so far. I will add the shifter leaking issue, the pivot ball, and the case clearance (I already had clutch fork clearance on my list). I did not want to mention specific brands on my list, but I can add suggested part brands later. I want to get more replies before I...
Since I already have the cover off my stock T-56 I can try that. Then put that same adjustment on the Magnum. Hopefully it will be a better starting point and I would not need to pull the cover off a brand new Magnum.