Not to sound facetious, but Optima batteries are AGM. There isn't a 96R AGM but a group 47 or 48 AGM will fit in the battery tray and the positive post is on the right side, You'll need to install a longer hold down strap.
I installed the Advance Auto version on my 2014 last year, I paid 140 ...
Darton and LA Sleeve do offer a straight sleeve for the Coyote but I'd hazard a guess those are the OE sleeve's,,
The Darton flanged sleeve's are what you want and look like this,
Yes the Gen2/3 Coyote's use the Boss 302 connecting rods. They hold a decent amount of power but if you're going over 700 I'd use a better rod since you've already got the motor apart.
It's M10x1.5 thread, Grade 10.9, Make sure whatever you use is 10.9. I swapped the supplied bolts out for ARP stainless 30mm long bolts on all six holes, which makes getting the 2 under the u-joint a beech to get in/out.
Unless they've changed the plate thickness you can likely use a...
You need Gen 2 head gaskets cause some oil holes are different.
You can run Gen 2 cams but you'd need to use the Gen 2 chains, sprockets, and phasers., Gen 1 cams = Gen 1 timing stuff. It's one or the other, the parts don't interchange.
If you'ere getting cams, then keep it simple and get...
Bit late but I have the G-Force D/S on my 18' A10 PP1 package and it's smooth out to 170mph.
One thing about D/S vibration I learned from my old 3v was to make sure you have the correct wheel base so the slip joint is properly aligned. I had to install adjustable control arms to move the rear...
At 1200 rwhp you start having the planetaries explode. A couple years ago a local guy running a twin turbo setup exploded his 6R with 1300+, I was there when it let go and it split the case in half, busted transmission internals went all over the track.
A couple news articles on high powered...
Aldo Welds is the shop Flores was pimping, Fathouse Fab seems to be another kit that people talk up and for 15-grand that thing better come with a timeshare in 'Vegas. That Aldo Welds kit is likely up there also.
Any 15-17 kit should fit the '18's.
The X-pipe isn't the issue, it's the hi-flo cats, Some people have gotten the monitors to go ready by using a non-fouler with the O2 sensor to move it out of the exhaust.
You can google it and see what worked for other people.
Ford Racing never offered that intake new for less than 750 when it first came out.
You'll need to dig around to find somebody selling a used one for $600, lowest retail these days is going to be 850-ish.
There isn't any caster adjustment built into the S197 chassis, it's fixed when the car is built and all chassis are going to be slightly different.
The FORD way to adjust it is to augur out the sub-frame mounting holes and use cam bolts to the correct caster angle.
Ford also tells you to...
While installing the air duct is better than nothing, You really need to close that gap to ensure the air is being forced through the center of the rotor.
Is the car lowered?
Even on stock springs some cars are more prone to the inner shoulder camber wear than others, Unfortunately there's no factory camber adjustment built in so you need camber bolts or plates to dial out some camber.
The Hoosier is a drag slick and will out hook the M/T bias DOT tire every time.
Are you still running the stock traction lock rear? If so you need to think about swapping it before you start running a sticky tire as it wont last long when those tires start hooking.
The top ring gap for the Coyote is spec'd for .006-.010" , Funny thing is Ford used the same ring gaps on the "Aluminator". Seems too tight for running a power adder.
I don't think I've ever seen anyone claim rings butting together caused an engine failure but conventional wisdom is to open...
From personal experience, The first couple things to check are ensure the pads are seated in the slots and clean and re-grease the slide pins.
If that's not it, with the car on jack stands, put the car in gear and make sure the axle isn't bent.
If that doesn't work, host up a video of that...
You want a stiff sidewall slick on these heavy ass Mustangs, they'll also hold air better than a regular sidewall tire.
If you aren't class racing that limits you to a 10.5 tire, and you're set a a M/T, run the M/T 28.0/10.5-15W, the W means its a tad wider than 10.5".
I use the Hoosier...
I'm running the 4" Spicer/FRPP driveshaft, Been to 190 several times with it and no vibrations.
It looks like the Steeda driveshaft is a rebranded Spicer anyway.
Denny's driveshaft has the best pricing w/free shipping on either the 3.5" or 4" Spicer.
The axle itself is a direct swap, however Shelby installed adapter brackets that so they could use a 13" rear rotor on the 13' GT500. So if you're using a 15" drag tire or similar, they won't fit unless you remove the brackets and go back to the 11" rotors.