Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for their input. I ended up with the R1 eLINE front/rear (drilled and slotted) set and their "OEM" pads for $350 after the 15% coupon and free shipping.
Which R1 rotors did you get? The eLINE series, or the carbon GEOMET series? The drilled and slotted eLINE are $327 a set which is pretty good. Pads are $50-$100 depending which you get.
I'm assuming the picture they use showing the 4 rotor set is wrong because it does not show a 13" and 11"...
In regard to powerstop on Ebay, not sure. You can certainly find them there, but you can find stoptech too; or really, anything for that matter. Seems that AM, CJ Pony, and LMR all carry both brands. CJ actually carries a nice selection of Hawk rotors, but man I cannot bring myself to terms...
Hey all, sorry for "another one of those threads" but the search here is killing me. I search for each of those names individually and nothing comes up for Powerstop, and just a handful for baer and stoptech.
Anyway, I just need a front/rear rotor and pad kit for my '03. It sees ~300 miles a...
Hey Grady, beautiful car, GLWS.
Just curious what muscle car from your era you're looking for. Another mustang? My dad is 72 and he bought a little '65 coupe when he got back from Vietnam. He still talks about it to this day. Was far from 'muscle' but meant a lot to him after two years of hell.
Right on fellas, I'm gonna tackle it myself. Two more questions:
1) I still have stock subframe connectors (I know, I know); is the factory steel of those connectors strong enough to put on jack stands?
2) Would you just lift the rear up high and go to town, or put the front up on rhino...
Hmm, this is the first I am reading of this situation. What u-bolts are you referring too? I assume you're talking about the clamps used to hold two connecting pieces together. How does that cause clearance issues? I think Borla uses accuseal clamps for the Ataks. Is clearance due to...
Danny Johnson has a nice video for a cat-back DIY that makes the labor portion of the job easy enough if you don't mind getting under the car jacked that high up. While he didn't show a finished job from the rear end view, he said the Borla stinger kit aligned nicely; for reference, I'm getting...
Yea I suppose as long as the tensioner can apply full pressure, anything will work. Just for reference, where does your marker fall on the tensioner gauge?
So just posting in the event it helps someone later. I bought the Metco 100mm snub, 1-90mm, and 2-100mm aux pulley set. I have a 3" sc pulley, and stock crank pulley. When doing the Metco math, you come to 76.5" with their set and with a 3" sc pulley and stock crank pulley. And doing some...
Hey guys, installing the four piece metco pulley kit. According to the instructions, I'm supposed to route the coolant sensor wire OVER the pipe (pic below as I understand what they're saying). With the limited slack on that wire, I just don't see how this is possible and opted to go behind...
Thanks guys... sounds like you've had good success with the repair and paint route. I just assumed they'd never get those bracket holes filled right to the point of being unable to tell they were there.
Tired of the road rash on my front bumper, in addition to the front license place bracket. Couple questions for those that might have gone through this:
1) American Muscle has, what appears to be, a nice urethane cover that is primed and has the rivets and brackets. But, not so cheap at $745...
Sorry for resurrecting an old(er) thread, but I was searching for something else and came upon this.
So these are factory OEM Ford headlights for $200 a pair from Tasca?
A couple years ago I bought some well reviewed (similarly priced) replica's from AM and they're terrible build quality but...
I was basing (Lethal's) price on the 185A J2FAB that was recommended here (and elsewhere). But yes, there are certainly many brand options out there at various price points.
Thanks fivelitre.
In regards to the alternator upgrade... if I did decide to upgrade to the J2FAB, is the 185A sufficient for folks with minimal upgrades? By the time you get the cable upgrade thats required, you're already at $470ish. At what point do you determine the 270A is needed?
Can you elaborate a little on this. My car just started doing this as well. The first time was under heavy acceleration entering the highway from an onramp, then again just driving on a main road.
My battery is showing 12.7v with engine not running, and 14.4 with engine running. I'm assuming...
Don't need the front plate here in MI but mine has it because it was an Ohio car. I didn't like it, but I wanted the car. I have enough road rash on my bumper that warrants just replacing it, so that's the plan... That plan is also about 5 years old...
Tell me about it. I made a brief effort a couple years ago. I asked a couple places about installing a set of stifflers. One shop said they didn't have the welding equipment for those steel thicknesses; one shop said they only had two post scissor lifts; Livernois Motorsports quoted $1300 for...
Funny you mention this... it's the first thing I thought of looking at the various catback systems. Some systems like the Borla Atak don't have but a couple clamp positions on either side of the muffler. Others like SLP have four clamps throughout the system. Lots of positions for perfect...
Yea, this is my intention. Get it up on ramps, and then crank it up a couple more inches and throw jack stands under the stock (convertible) subframe connectors.
Interesting. I've been listening to the stock sound for 8 years and have never been all that enamored with it. Probably because I came from my 08 GT with no mufflers; just SLP resonators which sounded great. But I get what you're saying; I'll try and keep them in one piece.