How do you test a egr switching solenoid? I’m getting a code po401 ( exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient) on my 03 Sable dohc. The egr valve itself is fine and functions properly under vacuum. I’m wondering how to check the solenoid
I used the LMR chart. I have a 4lb lower with a 3 inch upper and a 3.2 inch alt pulley. I removed a motoblue 4 pulley kit and replaced with a UPR double bearing 4 pulley kit. The car also has a new tensioner pulley. The belt that was on the car for about two years and maybe 1k miles was a...
Well I just installed a Gates fleet hd belt. (The green one) Boy did I have to stretch it on. Anyway the noise is gone again. Have to wait and see if it comes back
I flipped it and the noise came back. Took a few days though. And that’s why I can’t track it down. Anytime I touch something the noise doesn’t come back for a few days. It’s hit and miss
The clutch and tob are a year old. I also did a steel retainer while it was out. I thought it was the tob originally because when you touch the pedal the noise gets faster. But if I go under the car while running you can tell it’s coming from the front of the motor.
It doesn’t make the noise...
Ok so the noise is back. Except now it doesn’t do it on startup when cold. Now it waits till the motor has some heat then comes out to play. I just wish my damn pulley set would get here already. Been waiting almost a week now
Ok. I flipped the belt. Had a hard time getting it off the alt pulley so I removed the two lower idlers. I just happened to turn over one of the idler pulley bolts and there was a tiny little pebble ground down on the back of the washer. It was polished so it was definitely rubbing on something...
I’ll try the flip and see what happens. I don’t think it’s the inner belt because when the noise started that was the first thing I changed along with the tensioner pulley( felt a little gritty).
I’m actually guessing that it’s not one of my pullies. I swapped out the stock ones years ago with a moto blue set. But this year the car started to make a loud chirping sound at start up. The sound would go away after about 5 minutes unless it was raining out then the sound wouldn’t stop. I...
Without removing anything else, if I just unbolt the drivers valve cover how much room is there underneath?
Stupid me was working on the car today and noticed the breather wasn’t all the way in the valve cover. When I looked closer I saw that the grommet had split and the inner half was still...
The system takes about 5 min to fully balance out. When I changed the orifice and accumulator I used a a/c flush on the evaporator (reverse flow) and then after letting it sit for a few minutes I used compressed air (also reverse flow) to blow everything out. It didn’t seem like there was any...
With static pressure it get about 1 psi to 1 deg outside temp. When I did this it was 85* out and I had about 83psi high and low sides. When running the high side goes to about 250 and the low side drops to 20psi and the compressor cuts off. The low side pressure then rises to 50psi and the high...
Orifice was changed. The thing that gets me is where did this clog come from? I’ve owned this car for 11 years and never had a problem with the a/c. Suddenly this pops up. I can understand if the compressor shit the bed but it works fine
After doing a new liquid line and orifice valve my a/c still didn’t work right. The high pressure side would spike and suck down the low pressure to 20 psi where the low switch would shut the compressor off. Once the low side rises back to 50 psi the compressor kicks back on and the cycle starts...