You don't need any relays.
12v feed from battery
Ground to chassis
Trigger wire goes to FPDM (There are two wires people tap, one is key-on, one is a prime and stop. Purple/Green for key-on, I believe Yellow/Silver for stock operation)
One side of Hobbs Switch connects to the same terminal as...
Run some Torco/Lucas fuel addtive and a tune from your tuner where the KS can add an additional +2 degrees of timing for when you want a little extra oomph.
In general WOT in OD gears is bad news, and I'd say if you don't cook up the smaller set of clutches, you may put your motor at risk. I'd consider taller rear tires as a stop gap here if you don't want to go down in rear gear ratio.
Take a datalog and see if it's actually flaring, or if it's commanding first gear for a brief moment instead of fourth. There's a TSB for this related to the leadframe.
Have used the HF bar a few times, works fine. Only issue I can complain about at all is the paint chipping on the bar where the washer/hooks are as you lift against the motor.
Being able to raise and lower the engine is nice when doing headers, gives you more angles to get to different bolts.
Don't use the O2 extensions. Once you peel back the tape and loom there's only one wire that has to be extended, it's the purple wire. I used a high quality crimp here.
Dustin/CPR supplies pushlok style hose that works there. If you prefer to move to a steel braided line, you will need a different drain connect for the turbo housing.
Here's a short order of operations that help you not go back and forth removing to reinstall pieces in order.
0. Install headers
1. Install K-Member
2. Install turbo support
3. Install crossover pipe
4. Install down pipe, leave hanging
5. Install turbo
6. Install waste gate
Also ditch the...
Well you already know that dynojet numbers will be higher, what you won't be able to measure is any gains from the work you performed going to a different dyno.
Yeah, dropping the pipes is doable for track use or hero dyno pulls, but the cutouts would do the same thing and by just pressing a button from the comfort of the cabin.
Definitely not a concern for now. I don't think there's any issue pushing toward 1100rwhp with the full exhaust in place.
Thanks! I haven't been to any cruises, just hit up the track and drive around when it's decent out. If there's a local get together I'd be game to check it out though.
Thanks! Yes, this is on e85 fuel. I'm running the MBRP Race Catback for mufflers.
I don't think there's much restriction (you could probably roll a tennis ball from the downpipe out the rear tail pipes) but who knows. I may re-run the car in the future with the mid pipes disconnected just to...
Made it out to the dyno to finally get some sort of measurement since the tracks are closed. Here's a graph showing Wastegate pressure (7-8psi) and 21 psi through the full exhaust. I maxed my fuel system(2x 465s) during the last pull so it went pretty lean around 5800rpm and above. Third pump...
It seems pretty good as it is honestly. I'm sure gains are possible but even as is on WG pressure only it can barely hold regular street tires from a 60 roll so it's making some steam.
I only have these on until after the dyno though, street duty is usually MT 275/60s, track duty goes for the...
Well, I didn't really see a need for changing up cams it seems the stockers can do just fine even over 1200rwhp so to me I just didn't feel the need.
One of the best attributes from PD blower to turbo is being able to change power level to suit environment by pushing a few buttons.
Driving...