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I put the accufab on when my motor was out. Been since August of last year and no issues so far.

Just to save some weight and more room to work on things, like the starter.

They do. I’ve had zero quality issues with mine and idk if it’s better but definitely has its advantages. The only issue I’ve had is if you don’t put the motor in at the right angle the bigger oil filters won’t fit and have to use a super tech filter.

You can use a upr without going coilovers. I had the upr with stock a arms for years. I managed to force some BMR a arms in but don’t recommend doing it as I had to cut some of the bushing out.

I have kooks and have no problems doing clutch jobs. Have to unbolt and remove the trans from the bell housing first then unbolt the bell from the motor.

Even though they made it more of a pita to pull and install the motor (went from the top) I have never had regrets. Love the long tube sound.

Yeah maf counts were still rising. Thanks

Pulled up the last log when tuning. Looks like load is dropping. This is rpm(thick line) and load(thin line)

I have the cloyes gears as well. Also have the secondary gear set from L&M

Yeah the bassani 3” was probably the hardest catback to get fitment how i wanted. I would’ve polished that bad boy up before installing!!

Custom spec’d set from Todd Warren. Had a machine shop (phase 2) in St. Louis do it. I tried doing it myself but couldn’t. He said he did them per the cam card but he said he couldn’t get the lobe seperation to spec. Was supposed to be 116 and the closest he got was 117.5

I’ll try that. Wasn’t tuning it on the dyno. Car was tuned on the street and was just curious of the numbers

3.00 that’s all I’ve ever used on any of my whipples

Yeah my boost gauge pegs max which is around 25-26lbs and I start losing boost just after 5000rpm and steadily drops to 21lbs at 6500rpm. I’m gonna try a tighter belt. Might go back to a 2lb lower over the 4lb. Want to try everything I can that way I can blame the boost loss on the way the cams...

He said it was pegging and bleeding off on the top end. We went off the gauge in the car. I was in the trunk to help it get traction. 1st pull just lit the tires up on the rollers. I was looking at a video from when I was doing pulls for tuning and it looks like it’s losing more than 1-2lbs...

To take a breath and not react out of frustration. I’m not too happy about it. I’m not sure. Could be how the cams were degreed, other than that I’m not sure.

Welp definitely didn’t get the results on the dyno that I wanted or expected. Some how a motor with ported heads, custom cams and more boost made less power. We did notice it was losing boost around 5500rpm and up but I think even if it held boost it still wouldn’t have broken 800. First graph...

Standard.

Pegs the gauge

Gen 4 2.9 whipple, 3.00/4lb, e85, ported head, custom cams, jlt rai, accufab tb, 105lb inj, kooks headers, o/r x, 23* timing, about 9.8:1 compression

Turbo connection. If it makes under 800 I’ll be disappointed. It made close to that without cams and head work. Yep

Tomorrow I’ll be going to a local shop to put the car on the dyno. It was tuned on the street and I’m curious what the numbers are. If anyone wants to play the guessing game I’ll list the mods…

Rear passenger side caliper sprung a leak where the e brake spring is so replaced both sides with a set from LMR. Had the factory ones powdered coated red and didn’t want mismatched calipers, that’s why I did both sides. Probably have the lmr set coated this winter. After putting the mishimoto...

I appreciate it but I have one. I used it for the first fill when I put the motor in but didn’t know if it can be used if there’s coolant in the system already. I just used a funnel and burped it that way.

I haven’t looked into that yet. Mine is pretty banged up. I’ve been burping the system with the mishimoto for the past 2 days. Haven’t driven it yet but just idling it went from 210* to 176* so hopefully I just had air in the system when I put it in the first time and had high temps. I’ll find...