Coilovers

Anyone have any words on a Coilover setup for aggressive street? Mainly Handling.
Please let me know what you combos you have.
Kmember ?
Control arms ?
Coilovers ?
Anything else... components needed ?
Pulling the trigger on something.

Appreciate it.
I know its been asked in the prior posts but wanted setups also.
Bunky

Sent from my SM-G955U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

Maximum Motorsports coilovers with 300lb/in front springs and 475lb/in in the rear. Bilstein shocks/struts.

MM k member with all the goodies and FTBR bushing kit. I can hang with most imports around here. Even shut a guy up with a Golf R32.

01yellercobra said:

Maximum Motorsports coilovers with 300lb/in front springs and 475lb/in in the rear. Bilstein shocks/struts.

MM k member with all the goodies and FTBR bushing kit. I can hang with most imports around here. Even shut a guy up with a Golf R32.

Click to expand...

I've got pretty much the same as 01Yeller, MM and FTBR
Maximum Motorsports K Member
MM OC-7 Oil Filter relocation kit
MM Tubular Front Control Arms
MM Ceramic Coated Solid Steering Shaft
MM Spherical Rack AL Bushings
MM Bump Steer Kit
MM Front Swaybar Bushings
MM Adjustable Tie Rod End Kit
MM Full-length Subframe Connectors
MM Front and Rear Coilover Kit
MM Caster Camber Plates
MM Revalved Sport Series Damper Package for IRS
Hypercoil 375lbs Front Springs
Hypercoil 575lbs Rear Springs
Energy Suspension Polyurethane Motor Mounts
Energy Suspension Sway Bar End Link Set
AutoPower Race Roll Bar with Optional Bolt in Cross Bar and Harness Tube
Full Tilt Boogie Racing FT5001 IRS Bushing Kit
FTBR FT1350M Milled Ford Racing Rear Diff Cover
FTBR FT1860 Deluxe Bumpsteer Toe Link Kit
FTBR FT1900 Adjustable Swaybar End Link

Thanks for the inout
Running a Vert so not too much different

Sent from my SM-G955U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

Dont forget tires, probably more important than most of the other items.

Several options for coilovers that you dont have to do all the other stuff with that will get you 80+% of the same benefit. MM is a good choice though.

Also, dont think you need coilovers for good handling, a good shock and spring combo (with camber plates) and the right alignment is also a good option and probably more capable than what can really be used on the street.

With the age of the cars, the FTBR rear bushing upgrade, checking front suspension bushing and upgrade to MM rack bushings and solid steering shaft will make a big difference in feel and be more confidence inspring during 95% of your driving.

I think I went with the FTBR rear sway bar end links when I replaced mine. The stock ones were thrashed. I just changed the front sway bar bushings and end links to poly when I swapped in the K member.

FWIW, I never had complaints about how the car rode and handled with the H&R Race springs. I wanted the coilovers for the adjustability. To me the car rides the same as it did with the H&R's. But it feels...tighter. I guess that's how to put it. Plus I'm lower than with the H&R's. This set up with R888R's is a lot of fun. I'm actually looking forward to going back to them once these TQ's are done.

01yellercobra said:

I think I went with the FTBR rear sway bar end links when I replaced mine. The stock ones were thrashed. I just changed the front sway bar bushings and end links to poly when I swapped in the K member.

FWIW, I never had complaints about how the car rode and handled with the H&R Race springs. I wanted the coilovers for the adjustability. To me the car rides the same as it did with the H&R's. But it feels...tighter. I guess that's how to put it. Plus I'm lower than with the H&R's. This set up with R888R's is a lot of fun. I'm actually looking forward to going back to them once these TQ's are done.

Click to expand...

Couple sets of TQ, hook nice but was DDing it and buddy in the rain... R888/Rs are so much more confidence inspiring in turns and wet.

Based purely on geometry going coilover makes sense. Think about the pivot point. If it were me and doing the labor:
MM CC
MM Coil overs
MM steering shaft
Bumpsteer and (one of the few I outsource) proper alignment.
All new bushings all around, at least poly and see how you like it. "Cheap" test and really no down side or unnecessary cost If you decide you want to go full tubular minus alignment again.

Essentially stock++

Redfire03 said:

Dont forget tires, probably more important than most of the other items.

Several options for coilovers that you dont have to do all the other stuff with that will get you 80+% of the same benefit. MM is a good choice though.

Also, dont think you need coilovers for good handling, a good shock and spring combo (with camber plates) and the right alignment is also a good option and probably more capable than what can really be used on the street.

With the age of the cars, the FTBR rear bushing upgrade, checking front suspension bushing and upgrade to MM rack bushings and solid steering shaft will make a big difference in feel and be more confidence inspring during 95% of your driving.

Click to expand...

Agree. I do like coilovers though. I live in the land of potholes, speed bumps, stupidly steep driveways, etc. Nice to be able to get it as low as usable and tweak it.

HPLouis said:

Hypercoil 375lbs Front Springs
Hypercoil 575lbs Rear Springs

Click to expand...

How does the car ride with those spring rates and sport dampers?

I ask because eventually I plan on a similar setup but was thinking more along the lines of a 400lb spring up front.

Op my last setup before I tore my car apart was

MM coilovers with 325lb Springs
Stock K
Stock A arms with Delrin bushings
IRS with FTBR bushings
H&R Red Springs.
Full length sub frames
Aluminum steering rack bushings

Obviously my spring rates weren't matched but the car handled very well and was fun on the twisty road by my old house.

One thing I always mention when coilovers threads come up is DON'T slam the car.

A lot of people use them to adjust their ride height down to the the point where their tires are tucked then claim coilovers suck.

What they don't understand is they've removed most if not all of the bump travel and are riding on the internal stops.

Yes you can lower the car with them but going to far is actually detrimental to handling as well.

Blkkbgt said:

How does the car ride with those spring rates and sport dampers?

I ask because eventually I plan on a similar setup but was thinking more along the lines of a 400lb spring up front.

Op my last setup before I tore my car apart was

MM coilovers with 325lb Springs
Stock K
Stock A arms with Delrin bushings
IRS with FTBR bushings
H&R Red Springs.
Full length sub frames
Aluminum steering rack bushings

Obviously my spring rates weren't matched but the car handled very well and was fun on the twisty road by my old house.

One thing I always mention when coilovers threads come up is DON'T slam the car.

A lot of people use them to adjust their ride height down to the the point where their tires are tucked then claim coilovers suck.

What they don't understand is they've removed most if not all of the bump travel and are riding on the internal stops.

Yes you can lower the car with them but going to far is actually detrimental to handling as well.

Click to expand...

It's a firm ride but not harsh. I actually like it more than the sport setting on my GT500. It also handles the bad roads out here in NYC but I didn't lower the car with the coilovers since I need the additional ride height out here.

Whatever you choose make sure your shocks/struts are valved to the spring rate you're using and also that you can select what spring rate you want (or at least that it says the spring rate in the description).

If those two things aren't listed, you're likely buying junk and would pass.

Kmember, MM is the best there is in terms of strength but it is a larger, beefier piece. If you want less weight, more tubular design than UPR, BMR, etc will work.

I have a black car so the MM stuff being black almost looks OEM on mine.

Hard to say what spring rates will work for you as its also based on your use, weight of the car, etc, but typically anything beyond a 400lb spring in the front is crossing the line of what is comfortable to drive on the street. If its just a weekend car who cares, but you'll be fine with 400 in the front. Rear you can go as stiff as you like as the IRS is more forgiving.....600ish. If you intend to run the car low, a sitffer rate will better prevent any rubbing.