Built engine time.

biminiLX said:

I don’t want to answer for Steve but my experience is that a USED 5.8 block must be checked very carefully if you’re going to rebuild.
I used a new 5.8 bought thru JDM as the basis of my JDM 5.8 short block. Mine is stil going strong after 4yrs, currently at 1110rwhp SAE. I check an oil analysis twice a year with the last in November ‘21 and still good.
My tuner built my used block for his personal vehicle after checking the cylinder bore spec (not ‘out of round’) and coating thickness. His survived lots of street abuse finally at 1000rwhp and close to 1100rwhp on spray. Car was sold and still going strong from what we know.
A local friend rebuilt his used 5.8 block after being told it was good without sleeving and had failure during break in ultimately requiring a second rebuild hook with sleeving. Now a badass sleeved and ported longblock that’s going to make big power.

My point would be unless you’re starting with new block or committed to sleeving, you won’t know if you can get away without sleeving until you inspect and measure.
-J

Click to expand...

2011 gtcs said:

How close are you to them? I can tell it was stupid expensive to ship my engine from AZ to NJ. Whenever you're getting ready to do your build I'd call and pay for your engine parts before pulling your engine, it took them almost 5 months to get my cams.

Correct, my engine only had 12k when I pulled it out and everything was in perfect condition. JDM said for my power goal (900 to 1000whp) it wasn't necessary to sleeve the block. They have pushed the aluminum 5.4/5.8s to 1,100whp and revved them to 8k rpms with the factory plasma coating with no issues. It's still trippy reving my engine to 7k now lol.

Side note, I'm curious what Shelby American does when they build the Shelby1000 engine, I'd imagine they sleeve the block.

Click to expand...

2011 gtcs said:

And I still love my super stock cams

Click to expand...

Vinnie_B said:

Truly amazes me how strong that plasma spray bore is, ive read up on the process and technolgy and it is very interesting and has its advantages guys. Anything over 1000 RWHP I would probably sleeve just for a piece of mind thou. Im not sure if the shelby 1000's are sleeved.

Click to expand...

Vinnie_B said:

Bad to bone brother....... One badass shelby!!!

Click to expand...

2011 gtcs said:

The Plasma spray stuff is pretty damn impressive, I know the R35 GTR uses the same plasma coating from the factory.

Thanks man, I appreciate it.

Click to expand...

2011 gtcs said:

How close are you to them? I can tell it was stupid expensive to ship my engine from AZ to NJ. Whenever you're getting ready to do your build I'd call and pay for your engine parts before pulling your engine, it took them almost 5 months to get my cams.

Correct, my engine only had 12k when I pulled it out and everything was in perfect condition. JDM said for my power goal (900 to 1000whp) it wasn't necessary to sleeve the block. They have pushed the aluminum 5.4/5.8s to 1,100whp and revved them to 8k rpms with the factory plasma coating with no issues. It's still trippy reving my engine to 7k now lol.

Side note, I'm curious what Shelby American does when they build the Shelby1000 engine, I'd imagine they sleeve the block.

Click to expand...

Vinnie_B said:

No more than 800- 850 max whp and keep those revs under 5800.

Click to expand...

WicK said:

keep the revs under that RPM with upgraded rods? seems almost pointless to do rods then?

Click to expand...

WicK said:

keep the revs under that RPM with upgraded rods? seems almost pointless to do rods then?

Click to expand...

gimmie11s said:

He meant stock rods. Even that number is conservative. Stocks are good to 6500 or so depending on power level.

Upgraded rods should take you to 7500+rpm with ease -- otherwise the juice aint worth the squeeze.

Click to expand...

gimmie11s said:

He meant stock rods. Even that number is conservative. Stocks are good to 6500 or so depending on power level.

Upgraded rods should take you to 7500+rpm with ease -- otherwise the juice aint worth the squeeze.

Click to expand...

1 Alibi 2 said:

The red-line on my 11 was raised to 6800, my tuner, that used to work for Ford as a calibrator, considered it safe.
I think these motors. ( rods ), are a lot stronger than you think..
.

Click to expand...

gimmie11s said:

You think wrong.

Do some research on rod angle and how it relates to stroke and piston speed on the Condor and Trinity.

The 5.4 and 5.8 are a disasters waiting to happen in stock form if revved too high.

Click to expand...

biminiLX said:

‘13-14 cans make power to 6800 and Ford improved the crank balance on 5.8s but I’d recommend 6500rpm max on modded stock cars at higher levels, maybe 7000rpm in rare controlled conditions.
Once you build the rotator 7200rpm on a stock crank and 7500rpm stock crank on overrev is my routine.
If you really want a max effort 5.4 based mod motor look to Ford GT and guys like Accufab/Mihovetz.
-J

Click to expand...

biminiLX said:

View attachment 1752506
Looks funky with the TB closing then reopening but she definitely pulls clean to 7500rpm on rare occasions
-J

Click to expand...

dale.baker said:

J

You the man. I agree with everything you said. Get these built engine cars into 4th gear ASAP and let them pull like a freight train.

Click to expand...