Clutch/ slipping/ flywheel spacer

Nervouswreck

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Hey gang. I recently upgraded my blower to a KB 2.2 from my ported Eaton , also i had my Tremec T56 overhauled and 26 spline installed while i had it out which means i also picked up a new 26 spline clutch disk and while i had it apart i also grabbed a new flywheel and stock OEM clutch cable. After getting it all together and going to get it retuned the clutch was slipping on the dyno so we had to ease into it to keep from slipping . On top of that since the tune it slips here and there while getting on it hard sometimes as well, not all the time but here and there. It’s a RAM pressure plate that isn’t that old but everything else is new . I picked up on the self adjusting clutch pedal ( OEM quadrant) to have it self adjust and everything.

Now, my tuner said he feels it should have more power with the KB 2.2 with a 3” pulley ( stock lower) and around 14-15 lbs boost. It put down 502 hp on a dyno jet, 19 degrees timing with a safe street tune. He’s tuned literally hundreds of these cars and many others being he’s a professional drag racer and builds cars from ground up so i know he knows what he’s talking about.

So all of this being said that leads me to my questions for you guys. Do you think my car should’ve made better power? Could my clutch have something to do with that? There is zero free play in my clutch pedal but like i said it adjusted as far as it could go.

Also , there is a big “ring” that my flywheel bolts go through on the flywheel and now I’m thinking that maybe i should put that ring behind the flywheel instead sandwiched between the crank and flywheel instead of on the face side to maybe space the wheel back a bit . It seems like my clutch is just on the edge of biting and slipping if you know what i mean. My tuner thinks that my clutch is plenty strong enough and before i go dropping another $1,000 on a twin disk i should try and maybe get a firewall adjuster first.

I hope i explained it all well enough to get the big picture across. Any thoughts ????


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MG0h3

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Well of course any dyno reading would be low with a slipping clutch.

Not really understanding what ring you are talking about.


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01yellercobra

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Did you do any kind of break in on the clutch before you hammered it on the dyno? At the very least you're probably going to have to pull the clutch and get everything machined for a fresh surface.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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Also , there is a big “ring” that my flywheel bolts go through on the flywheel and now I’m thinking that maybe i should put that ring behind the flywheel instead sandwiched between the crank and flywheel instead of on the face side to maybe space the wheel back a bit

really not sure what you're talking about here.

are you saying there's a ring - basically a spacer - between the pressure plate and flywheel? if you've got a brand X clutch and and brand Y pressure plate maybe the spacing is wrong and clutch disc isn't making full contact with the flywheel.

Id also make sure the TOB isn't actually depressing the pressure plate fingers a little bit.
 

Rambro

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My old pro motion clutch had a spacer ring between the pressure plate and flywheel. Only way that could be an issue is if it’s not installed when needed. Sounds like you need an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. The used pressure plate might not jive well with that spacer also. Try an aftermarket adjuster setup with stock cable and and go from there.
 

DCguy

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He's talking about the OEM flywheel spacer which sits between the flywheel and pressure plate on factory setup. I don't think it does anything more than spread the clamping load evenly on the flywheel and prevent it from getting marred up when torquing down the flywheel bolts.

OP, this spacer SHOULD NOT sit in between the crank and flywheel.

If running an OEM flywheel, I would re-use the spacer, but its not going to change anything in terms of clutch stack height or engagement points.

Some aftermarket clutch manufacturers, especially when using their flywheels, may not allow for a spacer as it would create interference between the bolts and pressure plate. ARP for example specifically states not to use any kind of washers/spacers with their flywheel bolts since they are chamfered under the bolt heads.

In summary, i'd say you're ok without the spacer - you likely have something else going on. Perhaps the clutch wasn't broken in properly or there's some binding in the driveline.

Flywheel Spacer.PNG
 
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DSG2003Mach1

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About how much free play should be in these clutches in your opinion?


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with an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster promotion powertrain says there should be about the thickness of a dime slack between the plastic collar and firewall adjuster
 

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