Terminator Engine Build Difficulty Level?

Has anyone built their own terminator engine in their garage? How difficult is an engine like this to build oneself? I never built an engine myself but believe I can work my way through it.

I was thinking about building my own engine, and using local machine shops for block and head prep. The build itself is simple:
-Teksid block
-Db/Dc heads
-Stock 03/04 cams, crank, rods
-aftermarket pistons (standard bore size) that put my CR at 8.5-9.0:1
-ARP hardware

The only thing I would be unsure about is getting the right bearing clearances, the right piston ring gap set, and would be unsure on what specs Id need to provide the machine shop for any block/head work.

What other portions of a build like this would be difficult? Is there a handbook/video out there that details, step by step, how to build a 4.6 mod motor?

Why not just have a specialized shop assemble the short block? Then you assemble the rest? Setting up a short block can be time consuming. I've only done a couple and I took my time and was very careful. I prefer paying someone to assemble the short block and then I do the rest.

Curious what the actual labor portion of having a long block assembled is along with having cams degreed.

Even if labor was in the $2500 range, it wouldn’t stop me from paying.

1. I don’t have any experience building one of these. Done a few Toyota engines and SBF. These engines seem a little more finicky and I’d be aiming for at least 25psi

2. If there’s a mishap, the r & r on this is waaaay more work than a Fox or the Windsor in my Jeep.


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Albatross said:

Why not just have a specialized shop assemble the short block? Then you assemble the rest? Setting up a short block can be time consuming. I've only done a couple and I took my time and was very careful. I prefer paying someone to assemble the short block and then I do the rest.

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This is exactly what I did. Cost me about 3k-3500 to have block machined, block and crank magna-fluxed, bearings sized and calico coated, and the short block assembled. I did the rest in my garage. I wanted to make sure all the clearances and gaps were set right.

Too many good reasons to not attempt to do it all yourself, one being lack of experience. Best advice is offered by @03' White Snake and others to have a qualified shop build the short block. The money spent will be a blessing in the end.

I built my big bore stroker set up in my garage. I had a machine shop set up the bores and check the crank, but I double checked all the clearances after I got it back. My previous experience was with a couple small block and big block Fords. In the end it's still an engine. And we all have to start somewhere.

I should probably add that my first big bore set up was built by a machine shop. It lasted about 1000 miles. He didn't put in the rings I requested and didn't deck the block despite being able to see the curve.

I built mine in 2009 and it is still running nicely. Short block costs were: $1080 check, machining, cleaning and balance; $450 ARP mainstuds, headstuds, side bolts, $200 standard main and rod King bearings; $1000 CP 9cc forged .020" over pistons and Total Seal AP chrome rings for a total of $2730. I added a Melling oil pump, Stewart water pump, and IW dampner for good measure. I could have used the originals here, and did not add these improvements in as short block costs.

Be careful selecting your machinist. Mine does a lot of roundy round and drag race engines and is familiar with high performance clearances and engines. It took them a while to get to mine after race season, but I felt it was worth waiting. They need to complete some of the machining and measuring before you can order pistons. Be sure they are good at communication with you or you may be waiting needlessly at one phase or another of the process.

You want to be clear on the clearances you want with your shop and check them when it returns. My main and rod clearances were were just where they needed to be with a polish: not everyone is that lucky. You want to be sure the bores and pistons have the correct clearances and finish. I asked the shop to match the pistons to the bores.

You will want to know how much is needed to square or clean up the deck. This may impact the piston choice and how far down the hole the pistons are. Sizing the big end of the rods and line-boreing/line-honeing will also change the compression distance relative to the deck. Using main studs will require at least a line hone on the mains, but will add strength to the shortblock.

Your ring clearances will depend on usage. I used a hand crank operated grinder for the rings. The rings will come with suggested clearances for type of use and most have a tech line that will help you sort out the best clearance for your application. The chrome top rings take a lot of grinding for a small change in clearance while the second iron rings grind quickly. Just remember that and to take your time when grinding. you can't add material back once removed. Also finish the ends as instructed by the ring manufacture.

The other advice that come to mind is to have your clutch plate 0 balanced to the rotating assembly after your assembly has been balanced. My Spec 3+ took a small piece of iron welded to the plate to balance. I am sure this would have had a vibration if not balanced even though it was supposed to be balanced from Spec.

I have been building performance and race engines for myself over a long period for time. It helps to have a basic understanding of what is needed from the machine shop and how to check their work as you assemble. This was my first Ford and ford engine, but it was not that different from assembling any other shortblock. The most daunting thing about this rebuild was degreeing the four cams. Even that was not that hard after understanding the procedure. That was time consuming but not that difficult.

Forgot the other issue for me personally is time. Pretty full work schedule and my free time tends to go towards my rental properties.

We’ll see when the time comes.

I don’t think I’ve ever heard anything bad about BES or Livernois.

Think there’s another one but can’t recall right now.


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I built mine in the garage and didn't know a damn thing when i started. Lots of YouTube, reading, and patience. Ask lots of questions too. My advice is figure out your goals first and go from there. If it involves E85 don't cheap out on fuel, Fore all the way.

I went Teksid with 9.5:1 Gibtecs. Kinda wish id done 11:1 or around there. But when i started my build my goals changed midway and so did my knowledge. Since this build i have started on a setup with 22 pounds of boost on a 2.3 VMP and now currently on a 3.4 Crusher at nearly 30 pounds.

Sean Hylands 4.6 Ford book is solid.

All good points. Having the short block preassembled by a pro seems to be the way to go then. I believe it is going to depend on what deal I find out there to determine which direction I want to go. I got a quote for a fully assemble long block with ARP hardware for $8300.

Im wondering how much could I sell my used 297 stroker, with cams and upgrade valvetrain components, with 10k miles on its rebuild.

Do it yourself. The knowledge gained will literally be invaluable. Not to mention you'll save yourself several THOUSAND dollars.

However, as mentioned above, time can be a real concern. Sure wish i had more of it.

gimmie11s said:

Do it yourself. The knowledge gained will literally be invaluable. Not to mention you'll save yourself several THOUSAND dollars.

However, as mentioned above, time can be a real concern. Sure wish i had more of it.

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I haven’t even had time to put new flooring down in my spare bedroom after a leak. Course I skipped that to go boating on the lake this weekend so……self inflicted lol.


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Go over to modularfords and peruse through the TToC thread in the 03/04 section. There's a ton of very informative threads on every aspect of the modular including a few full builds. Sean Hylands book is helpful and does a pretty basic step by step of a build as well. I rebuilt mine about 6 years ago and did everything from measuring mains, honing the block, doing the valve job, porting the heads and degreeing the cams. At the time I was working at Sunnen Products so I had the help of some very knowledgeable people but the bulk of the assembly I did on my own and the first time I had done anything beyond a single cylinder engine. It is manageable you just have to take your time and do the research.

MG0h3 said:

I haven’t even had time to put new flooring down in my spare bedroom after a leak. Course I skipped that to go boating on the lake this weekend so……self inflicted lol.


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100%. Ive got more projects lined up than I can count... yet every weekend i seem to find a way to not contribute to any of them lmao

Plenty of good points in here. My 2 pennies is this, what is your time worth to you? If you plan on running her hard and cranking up the boost, you better know what tolerances and ring gaps you need or want. I'll probably just have one of the shops do mine when the time comes, but that's due to having a terrible back. Already loaded with titanium and needs more. That is my limitation. If my back wasnt in bad shape, I'd build the shortblock with a friend of mine who races in stick shift classes and has built a bunch of motors over the years for himself and others with great results.

I bought a junkyard engine for a little over $2k. It turns out to be one of those remanu engines, with the DC heads, and that remanu plate. I figure this is a good starting point for an engine, and from what I heard, these have some of the best parts. I will probably just rebuild this engine.

I have time to do a build, but I dont have all the tools and experience. Im trying to think of all the tools and parts I'd need to do a rebuild. I will also be on the lookout for a shop that can rebuild just the shortblock.