Rear control arms

Is it worth it on a weekend warrior to buy them? Car is still relatively stock except the exhaust, subframe connectors and march pulled. Have gears waiting to go in as well. I thought about getting lowers first and then uppers later. Not sure if I should worry about buying adjustable or not either.

I would probably like to upgrade/replace the axel bushings too at some point.

There's also the option of spherical on the lowers too. I don't really care if it makes noises just want what I need for the car not much more.

Suspension isn't really my thing so any help would be appreciated. As for long term I don't see the car going over 350whp for a long time.



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For a street car, I would stay away from solid mount control arms. You'll feel and hear every little thing in the road and it really does take away from your driving enjoyment. Stick with a stock type replacement for the lower with rubber or poly bushings. For the upper, I'd go with an adjustable set with poly mounts on both ends. The adjustable upper will allow you to set pinion angle and center the rearend.

Oem uppers with new bushings, MM LCAs with poly bushings on both ends

I'm planning on keeping my stock UCAs, then doing poly LCAs with a Panhard bar.

98 svt said:

Oem uppers with new bushings, MM LCAs with poly bushings on both ends

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This is good advice. Gives a nice ride on the street.

Thanks for the advice guys. One more question any benefit from boxing in the uppers and the fronts? I plan maintenance and have a full service fab shop for "government work" like this. Could easily be done

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I wouldn’t bother with the uppers. BMR lowers, get new rear shocks, ditch the quads.

98 svt said:

Oem uppers with new bushings, MM LCAs with poly bushings on both ends

Click to expand...

this ^^^^^

But also is the car lowered? Have you replaced the shocks/struts at all?

TaraFirma said:

For a street car, I would stay away from solid mount control arms. You'll feel and hear every little thing in the road and it really does take away from your driving enjoyment. Stick with a stock type replacement for the lower with rubber or poly bushings. For the upper, I'd go with an adjustable set with poly mounts on both ends. The adjustable upper will allow you to set pinion angle and center the rearend.

Click to expand...

I think you have it backwards bud.. Its the UCA that should be a stock replacement. Lower should be aftermarket, whether adjustable or not, with the only option being MM.. Also for the upper, you want rubber, not poly, touching the diff.

While we're talking about upgraded control arms, we should talk about torque box reinforcement, too. My Steeda subframe connectors include torque box reinforcement plates. Is any other reinforcement necessary if I'm using Steeda 4500 series LCAs, stock UCAs, and a Maximum Motorsports Panhard bar?