My 2013 GT build thread *pic heavy*

crjackson

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Really cool build thread. And I also turn to @Riddick when I have questions or problems too. He’s probably annoyed with my old a$$, but never lets-on.

This sight is a real treasure for guys like me...
 

7Lemons

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Really cool build thread. And I also turn to @Riddick when I have questions or problems too. He’s probably annoyed with my old a$$, but never lets-on.

This sight is a real treasure for guys like me...

You're not kidding... I have no idea where I'd be without these forums and guys like Riddick who are willing to help with some key advice here and there!
 

7Lemons

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BMR rad support installed along with adjustable sway:

20210128_174928 (Large).jpg


Got my gen 2 heads resurfaced by Ron @ Foxlake Power in OH, what a great guy... recommended to me by Tim @ Rodeheaver's hot rod shop out of Masontown, PA.

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Ready to install the head gaskets and heads!

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My "AED1003" stamp on my block from Shaun:
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I cleaned the heck out of the washer spot faces inside the heads with degreaser, before installing the washers and the ARP2000 head stud kit.

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Man did my son get a kick outta using the big torque wrench and going through the sequence and putting a little of his new weightlifting hobby to some use! lol
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Next for the cams and timing components!! I have all the parts except I forgot to order some VCT oil filters! :( And it's been really freaking cold so I'm waiting for a tad warmer weather!!
 

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7Lemons

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So I'm proceeding to the cams and timing components and have run into some confusion and I was wondering if anyone has some insight on camshaft part numbers? I purchased the heads and cams used from a guy in CA who had them installed by Shaun @ AED, so I know they're the right cams and all. The L&M intake cams are clearly marked LI and RI, unmistakably. But the other 2 cams (exhaust camshafts) have the Ford part numbers but aren't labeled at all Left or Right? Also, I tried looking up the part numbers that are etched on the shafts and they don't come up no matter where I look. The numbers on them are FR3E-6A272-FA and FR3E-6A273-FA Anyone have any ideas how to figure them out? lol

My 2nd point of confusion is the orientation of the camshafts when installing them relative to the crank position. I have the 2013 and the 2015 Mustang assembly manuals from Ford. The 2013 calls for the crank being at 9 o'clock and then 12 o'clock, and shows how the cams should be installed with the "D" slot and all. The 2015 manual calls for 5 o'clock and 12 o'clock for the crank and a different cam D slot orientation. So, the question is, since I have gen 2 block and heads, but with gen 1 timing components, gen 1 L&M intake only cams, and gen 2 exhaust cams... which manual should I follow for the crank and cam orientation (relative to one another)... the 2013 or the 2015? Or does it matter? I might have to call Shaun @ AED for some help, but does anyone have some insight?
 

Riddick

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Did you figure this out, I searched for the cam part numbers you provided and came up with nothing. Normally they end with a letter to determine which side, in your case you have different part numbers. Since the cams are keyed to match up with the timing gears is it possible to install them on the wrong side?

As for your timing question I would follow the gen 1 manual since you are using Gen 1 timing components. If I remember correctly you place the crank at 9 o clock and install the chain on the passenger side only. Then rotate 90 degrees to TDC and install the drivers side. As you mentioned the manual shows you exactly where to place the cams and the timing gears / phasers will only go on one way. Once you have the drivers side on everything should line up correctly (Crank at TDC, all timing marks aligned, data matrix on cams all facing up).
 

7Lemons

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Did you figure this out, I searched for the cam part numbers you provided and came up with nothing. Normally they end with a letter to determine which side, in your case you have different part numbers. Since the cams are keyed to match up with the timing gears is it possible to install them on the wrong side?

As for your timing question I would follow the gen 1 manual since you are using Gen 1 timing components. If I remember correctly you place the crank at 9 o clock and install the chain on the passenger side only. Then rotate 90 degrees to TDC and install the drivers side. As you mentioned the manual shows you exactly where to place the cams and the timing gears / phasers will only go on one way. Once you have the drivers side on everything should line up correctly (Crank at TDC, all timing marks aligned, data matrix on cams all facing up).

Thanks for the reply Riddick. First, the manuals do both agree to start with the LH side (driver's side) and there is a note that it's critical, for whatever reason. So... make note of that. I talked to Shaun @ AED just a little bit ago. For starters he said the Exhaust cams won't go in the wrong side physically. I didn't notice how they're keyed, I'll have to look at that as I sure didn't notice it. ALSO - he said that given the firing order, you should see that the cam lobes for 8-6 (driver's side ...LH) should be 90 deg out of phase from each other since they fire one after the other, and those cylinders are both on the LH side so you just look at that and you know you're good!

Now - for setting the timing this was confusing. Shaun said he only works and does everything from 12 o'clock and never turns the crank, so I guess he then rotates the cams to compensate? He said he's never gone off any manuals (since he's been doing them so long and before they had the manuals). This kind of stinks as it's yet a 3rd way to do it and I'm not sure what to do? I DID install the LH cams, and I followed the 15 manual, which puts the keyway at 5 o'clock and then 12. And the data matrix's are NOT both pointed up (the L & M cams don't have a matrix and the exhaust one is slightly clockwise). Shoot!! I'll have to take it back apart if it's wrong.
 

BuckChoklit

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This is total conjecture based on how Ford part numbers work, and some old forum posts I found.

I'd wager to bet that:

FR3E-6A272-FA - right exhaust
FR3E-6A273-FA - left exhaust

The first digit (F) in the part number is the year (2015) the part was released.
Digit places 2 and 3 are the "Product Line Code". R3 being "Mustang".
The 4th digit (E) is the Design Responsibility Code. In this case E is "Engine Engineering, Engine Product and Manufacturing Engerineering.

The next 5 x digits are the "Part Number".
Lastly, the last two digits (FA) being the revision. This works through the alphabet, starting with A, and each revision works through the alphabet until, in this case, you get to "FA".

That's a really long way of saying, theoretically, "part numbers" 6A272/6A273 can be the same thing across multiple years/models. And if this is true, then based on this forum post, you get my conjecture above.
 

7Lemons

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This is total conjecture based on how Ford part numbers work, and some old forum posts I found.

I'd wager to bet that:

FR3E-6A272-FA - right exhaust
FR3E-6A273-FA - left exhaust

The first digit (F) in the part number is the year (2015) the part was released.
Digit places 2 and 3 are the "Product Line Code". R3 being "Mustang".
The 4th digit (E) is the Design Responsibility Code. In this case E is "Engine Engineering, Engine Product and Manufacturing Engerineering.

The next 5 x digits are the "Part Number".
Lastly, the last two digits (FA) being the revision. This works through the alphabet, starting with A, and each revision works through the alphabet until, in this case, you get to "FA".

That's a really long way of saying, theoretically, "part numbers" 6A272/6A273 can be the same thing across multiple years/models. And if this is true, then based on this forum post, you get my conjecture above.

thanks for the detailed information! I ultimately found that you can't physically install the left/right exhaust cams incorrectly (swapped) as they just don't line up as the spacing to the lobes/journals simply don't line up if you have the wrong one from side to side. And you're correct about teh 273 being the left-hand side... good call!! Thanks!
 

7Lemons

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But I'm still baffled by the crankshaft orientation and cam initial position per the Ford service assembly manuals. As I was saying above, the 15-17 instructions call for the 5 o'clock crank keyway position, then 12 o'clock. whereas for the 13 manual it was 9 o'clock and then 12. Maybe it results in the same timing ultimately, but I think I will uninstall the LH cams I put in and follow the 13 instructions instead. Here are the cam orientation screenshots for '15 vs '13:

Here's the 2013 LH cam install position:
caminstall-LH.jpg



Here's the 2015 LH cam install position:
caminstall-LH_15.jpg



Here's the 2013 RH cam install position:
caminstall-RH.jpg



Here's the 2015 RH cam install position:
caminstall-RH_15.jpg
 

Riddick

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Follow the gen 1 procedures and she'll be ready to drop in.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

7Lemons

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Follow the gen 1 procedures and she'll be ready to drop in.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

Yeah that's exactly what I'm going to do. The L&M intake camshafts have an extra "groove" on the front as far as the markings, but I'll just go by the "D slot" and should be good. I'm waiting for the VCT filters which seem really hard to find in stock somewhere. I ordered them quite a while ago from MMR and still no indication they even shipped. :(

Here's a pic of the front of the LH camshafts (note the L&M intake shaft on the left):
20210206_214429 (Large).jpg
 

7Lemons

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I haven't posted in a while but have been chipping away at this build slowly but steadily. After this last post I ran into a ton of confusion over setting the cam timing and gen 1 vs gen 2 parts and installation instructions (gen 1 / gen 2 Ford manual procedures). So, I'll give the abridged version! In full disclosure here, I purchased the lightly used gen 2 heads, and all timing components (as stated before) from a guy in CA who was running it on his '14 GT, and was setup and tuned by Shaun@AED. This was a source of much confusion as the guy was not completely certain which parts were gen 1 vs gen 2 and when to follow gen 1 timing procedures vs gen 2 (not all that unexpectedly), as his car was setup by Shaun. After a couple key conversations first hand with Shaun, I was able to figure out what I have and what needed to be done (thanks Shaun).

My daughter helping me install the roller followers and hydraulic lash adjuster assemblies:
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Here is where the mass confusion started. I order a billet crank sprocket from MMR along with the OPGs. I installed the sprocket and went to install my primary chain on the LH side... and NOPE! The teeth on the sprocket were not the same pitch as the chain!!??
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Turns out my chain is a gen 2 chain and requires a gen 2 sprocket... but I thought I had to run all gen 1 timing components??!! Nope. Certain things MUST be gen 1 (on a gen 1 car) - such as the intake cams and the phasers for those intake cams. The gen 2 exhaust cams are essentially Boss exhaust cams, and they can be run in a gen 1 car but the phaser MUST match and is therefore a gen 2 phaser. SO, this means my phasers are gen 1 (intake) and gen 2 (exhaust). But how can they be different? Well, the secondary chain that connects the two is identical and same pitch, and the primary chain then must follow the exhaust cam/phaser, so I had a gen 2 chain and ordered a gen 2 forged billet crank sprocket from FPP, which can be seen here:
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I was also horribly confused on lining the timing marks up as the gen 2 procedure is totally different than the gen 1. So, I followed the gen 1 procedure, but my intake cams are L&M intake only cams, and the exhaust cams are gen 2, so the markings of the "D-slots" are different. L&M and Shaun@AED recommended setting the timing with never turning the crank, leaving the keyway at 12 o'clock. But this requires compensating with the chain for the LH side and it was very confusing. SO - I set it all up and installed the tensioners and everything per the gen 1 manual... 5 o'clock (LH) then 12 o'clock (RH). Then I did the final timing check per this pic in the Ford gen 1 manual:


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Note that all the marks on the back of the phasers are also lined up with the secondary chains as per the manual:
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7Lemons

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the final timing all set and verified:
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I then installed my timing cover and.... CRACK!! There was not enough clearance for one or two of the dowel pins?!! So I checked and they certainly seemed bottomed out when I tapped them with a hammer. This led to some serious head scratching!!
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Many thanks, as always, to Riddick who helped me through this one as we both measured our pins with calipers and it turns out two of my pins were not pounded in all the way! I had to apply some heat very carefully behind the tensioners to the block and tap with a hammer, and voila!!! They went in an extra 0.250".
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So... I ordered a new cover, ..... .... annnnnddd this happened (it came damaged):
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I had to return and order a replacement... which also the box came damaged, but the cover was not cracked. Ready for the new seal:
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7Lemons

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I then re-installed the cover and the water pump and crank pulley. For the crank pulley I just used the longer crank install bolt from MMR to get the crank started going on the shaft. It went on pretty easily. I also installed my Procharger pulley inside the OEM crank pulley:
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Re-installed the Kooks headers onto brand new exhaust gaskets, using the Kooks hardware (bolts instead of studs with nuts).
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Re-installed the valve covers... then realized my oil tube top "hat" was still in the LH side cover :( Uggghhh take it back off to remove as it must be released from the inside. I re-installed the lift bracket - ready to lift off the stand!
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For my clutch I purchased a lightly used Exedy Hyper twin 1200HP clutch and flywheel. Also installed the new high load pilot bearing:
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7Lemons

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And... finally ready to drop her back in there! My two boys have helped me a lot!!
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This grease monkey installing my motor mount bushings... haha!
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MT-82 heading back in there:
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Lowering her into place!! This is where you start to wonder... Hmmmm what am I forgetting!!! I think I need a fire extinguisher for the first start. lol Speaking of that - the fuel system install was just completed...more to come on that.
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Almost in there!
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7Lemons

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Just to back up for a minute, before re-installing the new engine, I installed the VMP plug n play return fuel system. It uses twin walbro 274's, a VMP billet fuel rail, an Aero regulator, and uses the factory line as the return. Installation was fairly easy except for working in the tight area in the back of the car under the seat, and getting those little clips on and off the fuel lines, etc.
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7Lemons

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Good call man - I have slacked on keeping up with this thread from being so busy! Here's an update...which is most likely the final one ;-)
 

7Lemons

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After lowering the motor in place, everything went together pretty well but I had a couple setbacks where I had to order and wait for more parts. Specifically, the coolant was leaking out of the coupling to the water pump, so I had to order a new top rad hose and a new coupling that attaches to the water pump from the top hose. The nylon and silicon(or whatever material it is) can't be re-used from old hoses and I was unsure about what to replace there as far as the o-rings and the tapered nylon rings - so I just ordered new stuff! Once I got that all installed - no more leaks!

Bolting up the trans!
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Installing the Procharger head unit:
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Installing the ignition coils:
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Loading the base E85 tune from Shaun @ AED!!
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