The overheat continues..fan help please !!

notagt

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I am gonna go with the Painless Part # 30104 adjustable electric fan thermostat with relay kit and just go directly to fan, high speed only.
 

notagt

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I could be wrong, but my though is fan is in reality 1 speed ( high), and resistor cuts current to run on low, this kit wired directly to fan should do it, all I'm worried about is with fan disconnected from 3 prong and resistor, is pcm gonna be confused when signal doesn't come back that fan is running from ccrm?
 

DSG2003Mach1

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I could be wrong, but my though is fan is in reality 1 speed ( high), and resistor cuts current to run on low, this kit wired directly to fan should do it, all I'm worried about is with fan disconnected from 3 prong and resistor, is pcm gonna be confused when signal doesn't come back that fan is running from ccrm?

i believe you’re correct about the resistor

the direct control with relay is probably the easiest option. I’m running a mark 8 fan and it only has one speed. Just make sure you size everything for the voltage/amp draw of the fan and have big enough wiring. I had a fire in the engine bay of my lightning from a flexalite controller

the ccrm receives no feedback from the fan. All it’s gonna know is it hit temp to send voltage out
 

notagt

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Good deal, I figured with this kit if I ever do viii upgrade I'm set, Painless comes with 40 A relay and 30 A fuse.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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Good deal, I figured with this kit if I ever do viii upgrade I'm set, Painless comes with 40 A relay and 30 A fuse.

i believe you need more like 80 amp for mark 8. I’m seeing they continuously draw 40 amps or so and can spike to closer to 100 on start up
 

hotcobra03

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Power or ground is getting lost

The 30a circuit breaker in aux box

Check this when fan stops

On ccrm pin 14/17 are triggers from pcm for low speed and high speed


The fan not being big enough to cool is overrated, jmo

I find speaker wire works well to run jumper wires off connector to fan
Strip it long and stick in barrel and connector should still fit back on to hold and still operate normally

Its just to check if power is there
 

notagt

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Well, I have exhausted all I can do so time to visit Kurgan. In addition to all the new components, I put in a 155 degree T stat, wired fan to controller and set to come on at 165 degrees, extended airdam about 4 inches, moved heat exchanger to bottom of crash bar ( was butt up against condenser, now in stock Cobra location though I have a Mach 1), after all this..leave the house, 68 degrees out, 35% humidity, within 5 miles at 60 mph, temp kept climbing and hit 220 degrees, slow down to 20 mph, temp started coming down to 205 before I shut it off..fan was running, radiator changed about 3 years ago but car has had issue for so long it's like new with about 50 total miles ( yea, been 4 long years), Edelbrock water pump, did Blackstone oil analysis, came back negative for blown head gasket, did chemical test, blue turned faint green, system is burped correctly, check crossover and it's full after heat cycle, temp being read off Aeroforce and changed sending unit in crossover tube so I am at the point no idea what I could even try anymore, heck it even passed leakdown I did at 20" vacuum, just wish I could somehow drive car more than 5 miles before I have to turn around and go back home, neighbors probably think I am a drug dealer lol.
 

notagt

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I wanted to add some things may help. I changed plugs, all looked good, no white smoke. I have been using one gallon of 50/50 and plain water and all good. One day out of the blue after a heat cycle, removed crossover plug and coolant was a DARK green, like the color if I was using straight coolant ?? That was only one time. Then, I fill my Moroso expansion tank 3/4 full, run some heat cycles, car cools down, tank full to the top. I take some out for expansion, look later and full to the top. Also, no matter how many times I burp/ heat cycle, seems I am always adding fluid to crossover but I have no leaks anywhere. This last T stat change I filled expansion tank 1/2 full, got to point only had to add about 1/2 oz at crossover, looked in expansion tank (of course with crossover plug reinstalled), and it was now 3/4 full. I also noticed fully burped, I can have funnel in crossover, with car idling, I can bump the throttle and fluid will ruse and explode out the funnel, and it's so weird I am not losing fluid, but it's like car is making coolant, almost like as I pour fluid into crossover it's going into expansion somehow if that makes sense, just some added info to help with any opinions..thanks guys.
 

hotcobra03

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I wanted to add some things may help. I changed plugs, all looked good, no white smoke. I have been using one gallon of 50/50 and plain water and all good. One day out of the blue after a heat cycle, removed crossover plug and coolant was a DARK green, like the color if I was using straight coolant ?? That was only one time. Then, I fill my Moroso expansion tank 3/4 full, run some heat cycles, car cools down, tank full to the top. I take some out for expansion, look later and full to the top. Also, no matter how many times I burp/ heat cycle, seems I am always adding fluid to crossover but I have no leaks anywhere. This last T stat change I filled expansion tank 1/2 full, got to point only had to add about 1/2 oz at crossover, looked in expansion tank (of course with crossover plug reinstalled), and it was now 3/4 full. I also noticed fully burped, I can have funnel in crossover, with car idling, I can bump the throttle and fluid will ruse and explode out the funnel, and it's so weird I am not losing fluid, but it's like car is making coolant, almost like as I pour fluid into crossover it's going into expansion somehow if that makes sense, just some added info to help with any opinions..thanks guys.


To me I fill to the top, than fill at cross over till it comes out tank, put cap on than fill at cross over till full.

Put cap on, run car till hot,, shut off

Than repeat,,

Object is to get air out,

So why leave tank not full ,,

Filling this system is so easy, many over think it,

Example,,when doing t-stat,
System holds 4 gallons,

1 gallon should be left in motor give or take,than.
Goal is get 3 gallons into system,

I do not do the funnel and run motor ,
 

notagt

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I used the Reische method. I figured I would take some out of expansion tank to allow for expansion when hot, but heck I've tried everything else. So, uncap tank and crossover, fill tank to top, then fill crossover till what tank starts to overflow? Cap expansion, then fill crossover, cap and run the car? After heat cycle do I leave expansion capped and fill at crossover only? When I mentioned coolant exploding out funnel, it was after multiple heat cycles, I was checking crossover level and for hell of it left funnel in and every time I bumped throttle, level rose and overflowed out of funnel. I thought maybe meant head gasket. Something I was gonna try was hook up leakdown/refiller to expansion tank without air, crank car and see if gage rises if that's possible to see if pressure builds and try my chemical tester again.
 

P49Y-CY

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reading through this i just wanted to point out that 2003 V8 mustangs use a 50amp fuse for the cooling fan (fuse is located in the battery junction box at position F1.1, maxi). that circuit runs to the ccrm which houses the relays.

not sure if this can help your situation, but you mentioned that yours has a 30a.

the wiring manual shows that there is also a serviceable 30amp fuse to the engine cooling fan motor located in the auxilliary fuse box position 31, center slot. (passenger side underhood, near airbox) it's kind of a "weird" looking fuse though, almost looks like a circuit breaker.
 

notagt

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Yea those all good, I tried AGAIN burping, I had expansion tank 3/4 full , with cap off no bubbles, T stat opened and level dropped, capped it and at crossover filled funnel, no bubbles, while I was watching temp gage, temp climbed to 173, fan came on, temp went down to 168, then suddenly started climbing to 185 with fan on high. I have to constantly fill at crossover, but then check expansion tank and it's overflowing on the ground, like air pushing coolant out of engine. With ported Eaton had no issues, after Whipple took 6 months and it started, so wondering if intake gasket issue though losing ZERO fluid. Anyho, I'm DONE, 3 + years, drive car maybe total 25 miles, Sunday it's going on a trailer and being delivered to Injection Engineering in Kennasaw GA to see what they can do with it. If by the grace of God issue is found will update, thanks for your input guys.
 

hotcobra03

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Yea those all good, I tried AGAIN burping, I had expansion tank 3/4 full , with cap off no bubbles, T stat opened and level dropped, capped it and at crossover filled funnel, no bubbles, while I was watching temp gage, temp climbed to 173, fan came on, temp went down to 168, then suddenly started climbing to 185 with fan on high. I have to constantly fill at crossover, but then check expansion tank and it's overflowing on the ground, like air pushing coolant out of engine. With ported Eaton had no issues, after Whipple took 6 months and it started, so wondering if intake gasket issue though losing ZERO fluid. Anyho, I'm DONE, 3 + years, drive car maybe total 25 miles, Sunday it's going on a trailer and being delivered to Injection Engineering in Kennasaw GA to see what they can do with it. If by the grace of God issue is found will update, thanks for your input guys.

If you can get car hot sitting still.

You can do another test,,

Water hose running on front of radiator,,

I had issues with this issue of can't drive because it over heats,,

Started same way,, air damn,check for leaks ,cleaned all areas under hoses where clamped,


Compression test first,,

Failed before,,causing over heating but was loosening coolant

This time passed but still blew coolant after few minutes out tank cap,


Tried fans blowing air,,no luck

But water hose dropped temperature like a rock and was fine as long as water was running.

Replacement radiator fixed it

3 core, 170 t stat with hole drilled on each half
 

notagt

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When I first had this issue, I actually had a 3 core aluminum rad (brand new), a Reische 170 T stat (new) and it still did it, but that WAS before I found lower hose kinked and I sold it and went with a new stock rad. I am able to get it to run hot here in the garage since I put in manual controller on fan and can keep it off. Guess I can try that today and see what happens.
 

notagt

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Ok hotcobra03, just for you. I shut off fan, car hit 195, I put hose with head on shower in grille opening held by our horsey, temp climbed to 203, unscrewed head and placed hose running across top of radiator, temp hit 206, this is all within 10 minutes, I then turned on fan (high speed), temp came down to 203, locked for couple minutes, after awhile, whole time idling, temp hit 179, then started climbing to 181 when I shut it down. Also, best way I can describe this...you know how when your car is idling and fan comes on you get that slight bog in the engine? Well, while idling, intermittently it was doing that while fan was running on high, like a rough idle/ bog, then smooth right out again...yea, gonna drop it off before I throw a grenade in it, want to enjoy a nice ride before I pass to a place where everyone drives a Ford and beer keg never runs dry :)
 

hotcobra03

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Damn,,

Your thermostat housing?

Is this also hanging on lower hose like the cobra?

The t stat ,,another problem area,

Size and shape.

Wrong shape/style will cause no flow even when t stat is open.

Recall a few threads,, with side by side photos to show the difference,

Buying this used anything is possible

Any link to the one you installed?
 

notagt

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Yea, hanging, over the 3 year period, had stock, 170 Stant I bought off dude on here with the notch, Reische 170, Motorad 170, now 155 Mishmoto, all have been tried drilling 1 to 3 holes..yea , I think you are FINALLY getting it that this car is like Amityville horror, everytime I think fixed where I go for a ride and temp is perfect, stoplight max 176, after 2 good rides, 3rd ride she says F you Larry, you think you fixed me, I am gonna break your heart. :(
 

notagt

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Car was bought NEW in 2003, one owner, had P1SC with stick Mach 1, this had Ported Eaton, no issues, went with Whipple, friends installed, about 6 months later, this all started, there is no longer any part I haven't tried, that's why I am leaning towards since no coolant loss, intake gasket leaking directly into intake causing air in system no matter how many times I burp, burp so much I dream about burping :(
 

delvin.a

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Is nobody going to mention it is supposed to run at 190-210? That lower t-stat isn’t helping anything, but an Motorcraft RT-1110 oe unit back in.
 

notagt

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Yea that's been brought up..BUT, on a 68 degree day, 35 % humidity, 155 T stat with fan on high speed at 165 degrees, should not drive down the road doing steady 60 mph, temp goes from a start of 170, to 215 degrees and climbing within 5 miles, and once I slow down, tries to start dropping, but then in garage with fan running wide open, I am lucky if 30 minutes later temp may drop to 181, then once completely cool, expansion tank overflowing but have to add water to crossover after burping more times than a baby on a turnip high..I could understand those temps with a stock T stat, but when you have my combo and ypu can hit 230 to 240 WITH fan running on high speed, something wrong, tried stock and tuner had fan settings for it and a 170, no improvement. I live in SE GA, so imagine if this is happening at 68 outside temp, imagine typical 90 + day, time for my backyard, wallet light for parts throwing to bow out and give to a shop.
 

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