2014 GT - Unsure on how to proceed w/ mods/customization, etc.

Ok, so I've owned my base 2014 GT 6 speed, which I affectionally call the DudeStang, for almost 7 years. I recently had something fixed that was driving me crazy - some paint damage/scratches on the trunk lid and spoiler. The car isn't in perfect shape but it's in pretty good shape. It could definitely use a detail/wax soon though.

The engine is pretty much stock. I just have an AEM dry filter and an airraid intake tube. I've also got GT500 axle backs. Most of the mods I've done are to the suspension - Koni orange shocks and struts and lowering springs. I've also got caster camber plates, an adjustable panhard rod, lower control arms, and relocation brackets. I added the track pack wheels, which I'm pretty happy with appearance wise. The shifter is currently stock but I have used a Barton and Steeda. I didn't hate either one but I also wasn't super impressed with either one. I have a RaceSeng weighted shift knob, which I like a lot, and I'm planning to add the Blowfish bracket soon when I can make some time, and see how that feels. I've also got the Steeda clutch assist spring.

Maintenance wise, it's been pretty solid. I'm at almost 70k miles. I've replaced the front lower control arms, sway bar end links, and tie rod ends; a set of windshield wipers; had the rear axle bearings and brake rotors replaced under warranty; and have had the battery replaced.

Honestly, I love the car. It was my first Mustang and I love the way it looks and enjoy driving it. It's also got a lot of sentimental value for me, as my wife and I have taken it on many road trips, including to Florida and back for our wedding. We've even taken it camping.


My only complaints about the car really are:

• The seats are not that comfortable, and that has become more apparent as I've gotten older and particularly long road trips. I have a lumbar support pillow thing I use because the lumbar support on the stock seats is pretty awful. Finding a set of OEM Recaros seems like an exercise in futility and the other seat "upgrade" options aren't all that desirable. I am leaning towards trying to find a set of S550 seats and making them fit (I've seen at least one thread floating around where someone did that successfully).

• The bluetooth/Ford Sync no longer works with newer phones so the only way to listen to music from my phone is to use the USB cord and even that doesn't always work. The stereo isn't that impressive either, which is even more glaringly obvious since we bought our new Forester Touring, which has an excellent stereo.

I'd like a little bit more power but the "best", most cost-effective way to do this doesn't seem clear. I always thought I'd love to go the supercharger route but I've called a couple of shops and the standard approach seems to be adding a VMP/Roush or Whipple ($10k for parts & install) and tuning for 650-700 horsepower. That sounds fun and all but I'm not trying to get myself arrested or fly into orbit. I think I'd enjoy another 100+ safe, reliable horsepower. I've considered the NA route but it generally seems to be that you spend a lot of money for not a lot of additional power, unless I try to install things like a Boss intake and headers myself, then get a tune. I'm happy to be proven wrong on this particular bias.

Maybe I'm rambling at this point but I'm looking for things to make the car a bit more fun so I'm less tempted to upgrade for something newer/more expensive. Any thoughts or suggestions?

If you want more power, a slightly cheaper alternative is to go with a centrifugal blower such as a Paxton or Vortech.

And that's assuming you are mainly interested in street driving and nota taking it for HPDE or AutoX.

If you're doing street driving, then keep the stock manifold since it is better on the midrange. If you do upgrade then go with the 2018 manifold.

If you go for more power I would also recommend upgrading to the Track Pack 6-piston Brembo brakes.

I can't help you with the seats but don't assume the Recaros will be more comfortable on a long trip.

I've heard that the MGW shifters are the best for the MT-82 trans.

My 14 had a airaid race cai, and 47# injectors and AED flex E85 tune.

Dynoed 430ish and ran 11.3s @122 like clockwork. Soo reliable and fast. For how simple of a setup.

MGW shifter is a must.
I am mostly stock on my 2011 engine wise because the power gains for the price dont really interest me. Lol, even the price of aluminum driveshafts have gone from $550 to $800. I will keep my money and all the vendors can find someone else to get money from......

I put an edlebrock supercharger on mine. Doesn't make huge power and I have not dynoed. Seems fast as hell to me. Got it from Brens0eed with their canned tune. Agqon, not max power, but never any issues. I installed myself and the tune is set so that saved some money. Pit on at 99k but only have maybe 1k on the mods.

I also suggest the mgw shifter. Big difference.

q6543 said:

My 14 had a airaid race cai, and 47# injectors and AED flex E85 tune.

Dynoed 430ish and ran 11.3s @122 like clockwork. Soo reliable and fast. For how simple of a setup.

Click to expand...

Follow this guy's advice, maybe add a 18 intake manifold with a good set of headers in addition to what he did. Should pick up a solid 50-60 hp easy and the car will be so fun to drive.

For seats have you considered purchasing a set of corbeaus, they are priced well and hold up fairly well. I did see a thread somewhere, the person swapped in s550 seats into a s197. If I remember right the back bolts bolted in but he had to modify the front brackets.

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S550 seats in S197
S550 seats in S197

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

Looking over the suggestions above, your original post makes it pretty clear you're more focused on moderate power upgrades to increase the fun factor on the street while avoiding big power mods since you're not interested in going FAST. I'm thinking you're probably not going to be taking it to the track much, if at all. So all of the above suggestions will meet your needs, and they're not expensive. Now you just have to build your mod list and go for it. And....be sure to post updates with pics.

P.S. - Definitely consider the MGW shifter! It's a good one.

Oh man, I didn't get notifications on all these responses for some reason. Thanks all for your inputs! Will respond in more detail shortly when I'm not being bombarded with work emails.

Coz said:

If you want more power, a slightly cheaper alternative is to go with a centrifugal blower such as a Paxton or Vortech.

And that's assuming you are mainly interested in street driving and nota taking it for HPDE or AutoX.

If you're doing street driving, then keep the stock manifold since it is better on the midrange. If you do upgrade then go with the 2018 manifold.

If you go for more power I would also recommend upgrading to the Track Pack 6-piston Brembo brakes.

I can't help you with the seats but don't assume the Recaros will be more comfortable on a long trip.

I've heard that the MGW shifters are the best for the MT-82 trans.

Click to expand...

I asked about going a centrifugal route but one of the shops basically said the costs would only be marginally lower (they were referring to a Procharger setup).

My plan has been to eventually use my 1988 GT for track use, autoX, etc. but I might do the occasional autoX, track cross, etc. with the 2014.

Thanks for the insight on the manifold. I'd love to upgrade brakes but not sure I can swing that any time soon, which is another reason I don't want to go to bananas and have the car end up with 600-700 horsepower.

Fair point on the Recaros - I should have noted that we have a more practical vehicle now (Forester) so the 2014 GT won't be seeing as much road trip use going forward.

I considered the MGW but I've also read that it's more notchy than the Barton and the notchiness is one of the things I didn't love about the Barton.

q6543 said:

My 14 had a airaid race cai, and 47# injectors and AED flex E85 tune.

Dynoed 430ish and ran 11.3s @122 like clockwork. Soo reliable and fast. For how simple of a setup.

Click to expand...

That's crazy. I have been out of the drag racing game for a while but that seems pretty quick.

I'm not too keen on doing E85 because I've read that you have to be really careful about leaving fuel in the tank, it's hard to find sometimes, etc. Feel free to try and convince me otherwise, lol.

Where did you get your tune?

Rb0891 said:

I put an edlebrock supercharger on mine. Doesn't make huge power and I have not dynoed. Seems fast as hell to me. Got it from Brens0eed with their canned tune. Agqon, not max power, but never any issues. I installed myself and the tune is set so that saved some money. Pit on at 99k but only have maybe 1k on the mods.

I also suggest the mgw shifter. Big difference.

Click to expand...

Thanks for chiming in. I'm intrigued by this because I do like the sort of subtle/sleeper look of the Edelbrock kit and I like that it has an option that doesn't automatically put you at 600+ horsepower. I've read that some folks have burned through alternators with that kit though. Have you had any issues with your alternator? How was the installation process and installing/loading the Brenspeed tune?

Riddick said:

Follow this guy's advice, maybe add a 18 intake manifold with a good set of headers in addition to what he did. Should pick up a solid 50-60 hp easy and the car will be so fun to drive.

For seats have you considered purchasing a set of corbeaus, they are priced well and hold up fairly well. I did see a thread somewhere, the person swapped in s550 seats into a s197. If I remember right the back bolts bolted in but he had to modify the front brackets.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestions. I looked at some Corbeaus but it seemed like there isn't an option that doesn't involve losing the side airbags. I would like to keep the safety stuff intact if possible and avoid having any orange lights on my dash. I also looked at some TMI seats that I thought looked really good but my concern with those (as well as with Corbeaus) is not being able to sit in them and see how well I fit before dropping $700-1200 (or more) for seats.

CobraBob said:

Looking over the suggestions above, your original post makes it pretty clear you're more focused on moderate power upgrades to increase the fun factor on the street while avoiding big power mods since you're not interested in going FAST. I'm thinking you're probably not going to be taking it to the track much, if at all. So all of the above suggestions will meet your needs, and they're not expensive. Now you just have to build your mod list and go for it. And....be sure to post updates with pics.
View attachment 1693754
P.S. - Definitely consider the MGW shifter! It's a good one.

Click to expand...

Thanks Bob. Yeah, I mean I'm up for the occasional track day and some spirited driving on backroads but I'm not trying to set any standing mile speed records or anything wild like that.

matt5058 said:

My plan has been to eventually use my 1988 GT for track use, autoX, etc. but I might do the occasional autoX, track cross, etc. with the 2014.

Click to expand...

The installation cost on the centrifugal blowers may be a little less.

Now if you do want to take it to road course tracks and be serious about it, I would recommend not adding a blower of any type. They tend to heat soak after 10-15 minutes. You can mitigate, but probably not eliminate, that by installing a larger intercooler, auxillary oil cooler, grille mods, hood vents etc.

You can also take it easy on the track or cut your HPDE sessions short by 5-10 minutes.

I'm not sure how it would work on autoX but I'm guessing if you have enough time between runs you'll be ok.

You also have to remember that a the Gen 1 Coyotes don't have forged rods or pistons so you have to be cautious of how much power and how long it will be applied.

If you do decide to go with a blower, a TVS type provides for more instantaneous torque while the centrifugal has a more gradual increase.

A TVS type blower may result in more difficulty in maintaining traction when you're powering out of turns. Of course, this is also affected by your driving style, throttle response of your tune, tires, suspension mods, a rear diff (Traction-Lok vs Torsen).

There's always tradeoffs.

matt5058 said:

Thanks for chiming in. I'm intrigued by this because I do like the sort of subtle/sleeper look of the Edelbrock kit and I like that it has an option that doesn't automatically put you at 600+ horsepower. I've read that some folks have burned through alternators with that kit though. Have you had any issues with your alternator? How was the installation process and installing/loading the Brenspeed tune?



Thanks for the suggestions. I looked at some Corbeaus but it seemed like there isn't an option that doesn't involve losing the side airbags. I would like to keep the safety stuff intact if possible and avoid having any orange lights on my dash. I also looked at some TMI seats that I thought looked really good but my concern with those (as well as with Corbeaus) is not being able to sit in them and see how well I fit before dropping $700-1200 (or more) for seats.

Click to expand...

No problems with alternator but admittedly I have very few miles on it and mine is a sunny weekend car. The kit was very easy to install and load the tune. I did not like the look so much in the pictures but looks pretty clean in person. Boss 302 strut brace will fit over the top. I just put in a new clutch and calimer trans so thinking about bumping up to the 650 hp and putting it on a dyno. I should have done the opg but had a bunch of miles so figured I would just save for a new short block anyways.

And fyi the toyo r888r are awesome at this power level.

E85 sitting in a sealed container stays more stable than gasoline (just have to prevent too much contact with moisture in the air as its hygroscopic.) As long as you have the fuel system for it it's fine, I only run gas when I have a long trip or the temps get well below freezing and I need to drive it. Otherwise it's got a tank full of ethanol year round.

L8APEX said:

E85 sitting in a sealed container stays more stable than gasoline (just have to prevent too much contact with moisture in the air as its hygroscopic.) As long as you have the fuel system for it it's fine, I only run gas when I have a long trip or the temps get well below freezing and I need to drive it. Otherwise it's got a tank full of ethanol year round.

Click to expand...

By fuel system do you just mean the upgraded injectors and tune for E85? Or is there more that is needed?

How does it work if you want to switch from E85 to regular fuel? Do you have to run the E85 tank empty before adding gas?

Upgraded injectors and a dual pump/ return style system as E85 runs really rich, usually under 10:1. I wouldn't trust a boost a pump with forced induction. I'm running basically a GT500 dual pump system, id 1050's and have a turbo so I really dont want to go lean and pop my engine. Most of the fuel systems in newer cars are fine with alcohol though, as it's been used as the primary octane booster the past ~15 years after getting rid of touline. (most Fuel is E10)
Most tuners can give you a flex fuel tune that uses the 02 sensors to sniff the amount of alcohol in the system anytime after you add >3-4 gallons. I dont have one, I just run it down and if I still have several gallons of 91 I'll fill up with E98, or just get it to about a gallon and switch then. Now that I'm daily driving the mustang I'm thinking of going ahead and getting one. With a return style system you can get a line and hook it up to the rail and get a fuel pump tune that you can use to empty the tank fairly quick. I have one but I don't use it as I have the cover on my engine and can't access the rails without taking it and the strut tower brace off.

Coz said:

The installation cost on the centrifugal blowers may be a little less.

Now if you do want to take it to road course tracks and be serious about it, I would recommend not adding a blower of any type. They tend to heat soak after 10-15 minutes. You can mitigate, but probably not eliminate, that by installing a larger intercooler, auxillary oil cooler, grille mods, hood vents etc.

You can also take it easy on the track or cut your HPDE sessions short by 5-10 minutes.

I'm not sure how it would work on autoX but I'm guessing if you have enough time between runs you'll be ok.

You also have to remember that a the Gen 1 Coyotes don't have forged rods or pistons so you have to be cautious of how much power and how long it will be applied.

If you do decide to go with a blower, a TVS type provides for more instantaneous torque while the centrifugal has a more gradual increase.

A TVS type blower may result in more difficulty in maintaining traction when you're powering out of turns. Of course, this is also affected by your driving style, throttle response of your tune, tires, suspension mods, a rear diff (Traction-Lok vs Torsen).

There's always tradeoffs.

Click to expand...

Coz, appreciate your insight, as always. I should learn to be more specific without being too wordy. In the event that I do something like supercharge my 2014, I don't think I'd be doing any serious competitive racing. It's more likely I'd turn to the Fox for track days and other competitive event. Even typing that, I understand it sounds overly ambitious or optimistic, given my very limited seat time to date.