Need help with my suspension!

CarEnthusiast05

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Ok so this winter I’m doing the Full FTBR IRS kit and I am looking to do some suspension work as well. I need some help on a few things. Any help would be much appreciated!
My car will be running 18” CCW Sp500s full time with 275/35/18 front and a 305/315/335 street tire in the rear (Ex: toyo tq/r888). Haven’t decided what rear tire yet. I currently have nothing done suspension wise. Not even lowering springs. I do have Steeda x2 ball joints new in box and also already have Welded MM FLSC. Do you recommend I install the Ball joints or wait until I go tubular a arms/ K member and sell the x2s to recoup some cash?
My car will be used for street driving and monthly track days on a crappy pavement track. Maybe some nice track days once or twice a year.
I would like my car to be pretty low and have a great stance. I don’t like big fender gaps.

I have a couple options

Option 1:
Brand new Bilstein HD struts and shocks and H and R race springs with MM cc plates = $1200

Option 2: Full MM coilovers kit front and rear with Mm cc plates = $1700

Option 3: Full Viking coilovers kit front and rear = $1700 plus MM cc plates adds another $200

Option 4: Kw front and rear coilovers kit = $2500 (least favorite option because seems way too pricey for what I’m doing)

Option 5: Bc racing front and rear coilovers kit = $995

Option 6: Leave my front 47k mile front strut and do MM coilovers front and rear with brand new HD shocks out back and MM cc plates = $1300

Option 7: Just some lowering springs and Mm cc plates = $500

If there are any other better options let me know. My car is a coupe sitting at 500rwhp and will most likely be getting a bigger blower and e85 pushing 700-800rwhp next summer. I’m trying to plan ahead and get a suspension that could handle any future power I add. Thanks so much!
 

HuntFishCobra

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Option 1 here. Also did the MM solid rack bushings. Would highly recommend. Handles great and since it’s a street car/crappy surface you’ll retain the strength of the stock K member. You also won’t over stress your shock towers running coilovers
 

CarEnthusiast05

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Option 1 here. Also did the MM solid rack bushings. Would highly recommend. Handles great and since it’s a street car/crappy surface you’ll retain the strength of the stock K member. You also won’t over stress your shock towers running coilovers
Thanks for the advice. I was already planning on doing the alum rack.
 

1Kona_Venom

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lol, ya your roads SUCKKKKKK in wisconsin.

Anywho, I ran FTBR full kit H&R No Isos and R888. The stance was the shit and it did well at 650rwhp

As compared to MM c/o kit...you don't want that for a street car. Had that setup to
 

03yllwguy

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Option 1 here on a daily and love it (solid rack bushings as well). I went with Moog ball joints over the steeda (didn’t want to mess with bump steer).

Had a full Griggs GR40 C/O kit on Koni DAs on my last cobra. Never again on a street car.


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Dave.O

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I have #1 on my 03 with all upgraded bushings up front. Great all around feel on street and road coarse (Cota and others) good mixed use set up. 530 rwp.
I have #2 on my 99 making 400 hp with Griggs kmember, night and day difference. Not sure why others don’t like co on street, mine is tolerable.


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Bdubbs

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I'd vote option 1. Consider running the bilstein b8 rear shocks. They work well with h&r race springs.

Sounds like I should upgrade to solid rack bushings.

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Blkkbgt

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Option 6 for a few reasons.

1. The valving is very similar to the HDs
2. By using the stock strut you'll retain the stronger spindle mount ears/tabs.

There is a problem with the HDs bending under heavy braking because they skimped in this area. Look at your stockers and compare, you'll see what I mean.

Option 5 isn't bad if you replace the BC coilovers with Feal. From my personal research I think they are a superior setup to BC because Feal will customize the valving for you and have tons of spring rate options. This is strictly an opinion as I've never ran them but am looking in that direction later.

I do however have a lot of time running Bilstien HDs on the street in with both H&R springs and MM coilovers. Of the 2 the MM coilovers with 325lb springs were by far the most comfortable.

From my experience the people that hate coilover on the street are doing one of 3 things.

1. Running massive spring rates with shocks/struts valved for the track.

2. Running cheap coilovers on cheap struts that make tons or noise and usually can't handle the chosen spring rate.

3. They buy them to slam the car which reduces the available bump travel. So instead of having 2-3 inches of travel they are running around on an inch or less. Every time they hit a small bump or a pot hole the piston hits the internal stop.

I see #3 more than anything else. People flat out don't understand what they are doing when they slam the car with coilover then blame them.

Definitely get the MM aluminum rack bushings, they are a bad ass mod and really help increase road feal.
 

94 Cobra R

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Option 1 here on a daily and love it (solid rack bushings as well). I went with Moog ball joints over the steeda (didn’t want to mess with bump steer).

Had a full Griggs GR40 C/O kit on Koni DAs on my last cobra. Never again on a street car.


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Interesting you say that about the Griggs. I've got the full GR40 front and rear...anything they had available is on the car. Love it, handles like it is on rails, near-to-nothing wheel hop, just amazing. But IF this was a daily car (it's a weekend toy now), I don't think I'd enjoy it nearly as much. Don't think too many people have the Griggs stuff on their cars now just because they don't advertise like they used to.
 

dazwelding

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Depends on what matters more to you, street or track. I have full delrin all the way around, FTBR in the rear and MM in the front. MM k member, foreword offset control arms, strut tower brace, MM coil overs with Konis DA, solid steering shaft, solid rack bushings. Only thing I would do differently again is just simplify it a little and go with the MM Race Bilsteins. Set up is amazing. I do not have any issues driving my set up on the street, in fact I prefer driving it over my 2020 GT. If you are going coil overs you will definitely want the strut tower brace, and sub frame connectors.
 

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