Ballpark figure for rebuild and from whom ???

Evening guys. I am cracking down on my 67 fastback (Eleanor) build once again after a long hiatus. The build involves transplanting an 04 terminator motor in it and i am at the point where i would like to take the motor somewhere to get it rebuilt and upgraded just for piece of mind. I am looking for recommendations on an engine builder but also wondering if you had an engine rebuilt by the shop you are recommending if you can give me a rough idea of how much your motor cost to rebuild? I live in South Jersey willing to drive a couple hours to drop it off if need be but not opposed to shipping it somewhere for the right builder. The motor has about 46,000 miles on it and my goal on pump gas is 650-700 if possible since E85 does not seem to be an option for me where i live. I can price out the hard parts but i was just wondering what the tear down, machine work and rebuild might run me so i can budget that out. I am thinking about bumping up the compression one oversize just to clean up the cylinders and adding a TVS 2.3 on top. Unfortunately i do not have the budget to do any headwork at this time but i do want to put a set of cams in it just for the sound as crazy as that sounds. Its a show and go car that will not see the strip. I just want it to sound as pissed off and angry as possible. Any recommendations on a build from the veterans of the forums would be greatly appreciated. And if you frequent the forum and feel like helping me out i am sure i will be looking for advice along the way with things like a fuel system, wiring, what i will and wont need in a tune as the install moves forward. Thanks in advance for those of you willing to share your time, experience and advice. Hopefully soon i can join in on some of the shows and cruises and get to know some of you guys personally.

Joe

If it only has 46k I and didn't have issues I would throw a bigger blower on it and call it a day. You're not going to hit 700 on pump gas. Aim for low 600's depending on if you have 91 or 93 octane available.

L&M is on the east coast and I hear great things about them.

You can buy a stout short block with a brand new block for around $6500 from ModMax - 4.6 and 5.4 Modular Experts , https://www.lmengines.com , Modular Head Shop , Excessive Motorsports LLC .

Cams are 2k with supporting parts. I paid $3500 to have my block machined and the short block assembled. I supplied everything. Pistons, rings, all ARP 2000 hardware, gaskets, freeze plugs, dowels ect. I assembled the rest and degreed my cams. Including parts and the short block, it cost me 12k all said and done, but I did 90% of the labor. I upgraded everything I could.

If I were to do it again, I would have ditched my block and went with a brand new built short block vs buying all the parts separately and supplying them. Most engine builders let you choose pistons, CR, rods, hardware ect during the ordering process. It would be much easier and probably cheaper imo.

01yellercobra said:

If it only has 46k I and didn't have issues I would throw a bigger blower on it and call it a day. You're not going to hit 700 on pump gas. Aim for low 600's depending on if you have 91 or 93 octane available.

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It did have some sort of noise/knock coming from down low so i just want a sound mind of knowing whats in the car from day 1. I was hoping to make it as solid as possible with all those "while you have it apart" type of upgrades. I appreciate your feedback.

Joe

03' White Snake said:

L&M is on the east coast and I hear great things about them.

You can buy a stout short block with a brand new block for around $6500 from ModMax - 4.6 and 5.4 Modular Experts , L&M Engines , Modular Head Shop , Excessive Motorsports LLC .

Cams are 2k with supporting parts. I paid $3500 to have my block machined and the short block assembled. I supplied everything. Pistons, rings, all ARP 2000 hardware, gaskets, freeze plugs, dowels ect. I assembled the rest and degreed my cams. Including parts and the short block, it cost me 12k all said and done, but I did 90% of the labor. I upgraded everything I could.

If I were to do it again, I would have ditched my block and went with a brand new built short block vs buying all the parts separately and supplying them. Most engine builders let you choose pistons, CR, rods, hardware ect during the ordering process. It would be much easier and probably cheaper imo.

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03WhiteSnake i appreciate the feedback as that is what i was looking for. I am actually leaning towards L&M for the rebuild after doing a little more research. What pistons, rods, crank and cams did you go with? Do you have any videos of your car running? I would love to hear what your cams sound like. Unfortunately i do not have the experience with these engines to rebuild it myself or i would definitely try to save myself some money going that route.

gawnin60 said:

It did have some sort of noise/knock coming from down low so i just want a sound mind of knowing whats in the car from day 1. I was hoping to make it as solid as possible with all those "while you have it apart" type of upgrades. I appreciate your feedback.

Joe

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Umderstandable then. Let the the machine shop look through it. The stock stuff will handle more power than you're looking for. Maybe you'll be lucky and only need the crank cleaned up and new pistons.

01yellercobra said:

Umderstandable then. Let the the machine shop look through it. The stock stuff will handle more power than you're looking for. Maybe you'll be lucky and only need the crank cleaned up and new pistons.

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Will the machine shop use "used" parts to assemble an engine? I guess i assumed they would not inspect things like a crank or rods and reuse them? That would be great if i can use the rods and crank if they can make sure they are straight and true. I am going to call L&M next week and see what the options are. Thanks again for your time.

Joe

gawnin60 said:

Will the machine shop use "used" parts to assemble an engine? I guess i assumed they would not inspect things like a crank or rods and reuse them? That would be great if i can use the rods and crank if they can make sure they are straight and true. I am going to call L&M next week and see what the options are. Thanks again for your time.

Joe

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Only reasons they wouldn't is if the parts are beyond repair or you don't want them to.

gawnin60 said:

Will the machine shop use "used" parts to assemble an engine? I guess i assumed they would not inspect things like a crank or rods and reuse them? That would be great if i can use the rods and crank if they can make sure they are straight and true. I am going to call L&M next week and see what the options are. Thanks again for your time.

Joe

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Definitely give L&M a call and go over your goals.

A factory Kellogg crank is a stout piece, the stock rods are great too. Good for ~1000rwhp. A good machine shop will clean, magnaflux the crank, block, and rods to check for cracks ect. They will reuse these if the parts are good.

I run hard coat anodized and moly skirt Diamond pistons, stock rods, a new Kellog crank, calico coated bearings, and all ARP 2000 bolts throughout the motor. I had custom cams spec'd by BulletRacingCams, I did not want super aggressive, but you can hear it chop and tell it has cams in it. The exhaust also plays a part in this. I run chambered bassani exhaust on my car. Bullit style mufflers definitely help with the chop.

My CR is calculated out around 10.3:1. I run E85 all the time in my car. On 22 psi through my 2.8h KB, my car made 823hp/767tq. My stock motor, same boost was making 694hp/672tq. So CR and cams made about 130 rwhp on my car.