My 2011 GT is getting a VMP Gen3R!!

Fast_351

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Hello all! I am about to step in the modern boosted/fuel injected world. I have been around Mustangs for 30+ years, drag raced an 89 with a 351 into the 10s, and in 2011 finally stepped into the modern era. I have a 2011 Mustang GT w/Brembo package, and a stick. I've done a handful of suspension mods that really make the car handle, but have always kind of hung back on adding power. I've been toying with the idea of a PD blower for a LONG time, and finally pulled the trigger. I have a VMP Gen3R kit coming my way!

My car is very low miles (<10K). It has never been to the track, although I won't rule out an eventual trip, my goal is for this thing to be a fun street car. I'm not looking to run 8s or even put a rollbar in. I am going to run the 92mm (biggest) pulley. Not sure I'll ever switch. I'll work with VMP to get the tune right.

So questions I have for my new setup I'll be putting in this winter.

1) Is it worth adding a boost-a-pump? I'm getting conflicting answers, so my guess is it's a safety thing only. I don't mind spending the money but unless it's absolutely needed I'd just as soon skip it and spend money elsewhere...

2) OPG/CS (oil pump gear/crank sprocket). I'm not afraid of the work, it doesn't look that bad. I am leaning towards doing it since I'll be halfway there on the teardown anyway. Seems like cheap insurance. Any suggestions? Looking at the MMR kit right now.

3) Clutch. I know the stocker isn't long for this world with a power adder. I don't plan on doing a bunch of clutch dumps on sticky tires, but if I'm going to tear it apart to replace it I might as well stick in something I'll never have to worry about. Looking at McLeod RXT. Yay or overkill?

4) Driveshaft. This one seems easy. That heavy 2 piece looks like a disaster. Any favorites?

LONG TERM:

This is a gen 1 coyote. Will it live with the lowest boost from a Gen3R? I am guessing somewhere in the 550-600 HP range.

If I do end up upgrading it'll probably be a self installed rotating assembly consisting of a boss crank, forged rods and pistons. Anyone have a favorite? Seems like MMR has what I want, any others I should look at?

Thanks in advance! I am looking forward to this winters' project.

Pic for attention:

img_0238.jpg
 

q6543

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Yes on BAP, ID1000'S, and driveshaft.
I skipped opg's and never had a clutch problem.

I hope you enjoy!! I actually sold my blown coyote car a few years ago and bought another fox.
 

WIST2013GT

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Yea it will live. I have a gen1 coyote with a gen 3 (not the R) on a 92mm and I run E85. I'm guessing it makes 650whp or so. Its an auto, so a manual might actually be even stronger. I've been a best of [email protected] and best trap of 138.8 so its making some power. I have a driveshaft, and a dual pump return style fuel system. I wasnt even going to use a BAP, but when it ran out of fuel while tuning I just went straight to the dual pump instead of messing with a BAP.
 

Fast_351

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Yea it will live. I have a gen1 coyote with a gen 3 (not the R) on a 92mm and I run E85. I'm guessing it makes 650whp or so. Its an auto, so a manual might actually be even stronger. I've been a best of [email protected] and best trap of 138.8 so its making some power. I have a driveshaft, and a dual pump return style fuel system. I wasnt even going to use a BAP, but when it ran out of fuel while tuning I just went straight to the dual pump instead of messing with a BAP.

I assume you ran out of fuel with the E85? I plan on running 93 (although E85 is widely available here) for the time being. If I do go to E85 I'll probably do the same and do a full fuel system. I was just thinking that the BAP might be cheap insurance against a voltage drop or if the pressure is marginal at high RPM.
 

13BlackGT

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VMP will know what you need on the fuel if you don’t plan on more boost or E85. I got a dana spicer driveshaft and it has been good. I had opg installed and did upgrade to dual pump fuel system. The stock clutch and lockout sucked so much that I 6r80 swapped it


91 coupe, 93 coupe, 13 Gt
 

Fast_351

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LOL I got two different answers from VMP, that's why I'm asking. One guy said you need to add it, the other said the kit is all you need, except spark plugs. I don't think aside from the cost there is a disadvantage to running one and it's a pretty simple add.

I will probably get the FRPP shaft (made by Dana) since it looks like I can get a better price on the FRPP. I might do that now since it's not a lot of work even in the cold with my lift.

I've pretty much settled on the fact that I am putting in a set of OPG. I think I will eventually build the bottom end, and I'll need them then anyway. Seems like cheap insurance and I'm not afraid of the work.

I am keeping a stick tho :) This is a street car and while I know autos are faster at the strip I love driving a stick on the street. It's just more fun. If I break the MT82 I'll toss in a T56.
 

e85svt

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Your first question will depend on the tuner and how your data logs look but if your plan is to eventually run e85 i would save, as it would be in your best interest to save on a return style fuel system. Many say they have gotten away with running a dw400 and bap but most reputable tuners will not tune on e85 without one. I would definitely opt for the boost a pump if you're running a factory fuel pump for sure. As short term trims can spike and fuel pressure drops at higher rpms. For spark plugs I would recommend ngk 6510s.

Oil pump gears are a good Idea for insurance. However depending on how long you are going to keep the stock bottom end it would be alot easier to do it all at once while the engine is out to save some hassle. If its mainly a street car and you're not revving it high or are subjecting the rotating assembly to excessive harmonics then you may want to reconsider. If you are going to enjoy it on pump gas for a while and reinforcing the bottom end is a long term plan and you want a safety net I would do it.

The stock clutch may hold but if you're planning on taking it to strip and doing hard launches every once in awhile A clutch such as a mantic or Mcleod would be a great choice. If lock out occurs at high rpm then it may be time for a new clutch. And like I said earlier if you can wait when or if you build the bottom end I would hold off and do it all at once. Again thats up to you.

If you plan on running 93 for a while you are limited to about 12-13 psi. After that you'll likely need to go fuel system or e85 unless you spike it with some octane booster.

I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed and you don't have to take my info seriously but that's what I got. Have fun.


LOL I got two different answers from VMP, that's why I'm asking. One guy said you need to add it, the other said the kit is all you need, except spark plugs. I don't think aside from the cost there is a disadvantage to running one and it's a pretty simple add.

I will probably get the FRPP shaft (made by Dana) since it looks like I can get a better price on the FRPP. I might do that now since it's not a lot of work even in the cold with my lift.

I've pretty much settled on the fact that I am putting in a set of OPG. I think I will eventually build the bottom end, and I'll need them then anyway. Seems like cheap insurance and I'm not afraid of the work.

I am keeping a stick tho :) This is a street car and while I know autos are faster at the strip I love driving a stick on the street. It's just more fun. If I break the MT82 I'll toss in a T56.

Sent from my SM-G960U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

WIST2013GT

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I assume you ran out of fuel with the E85? I plan on running 93 (although E85 is widely available here) for the time being. If I do go to E85 I'll probably do the same and do a full fuel system. I was just thinking that the BAP might be cheap insurance against a voltage drop or if the pressure is marginal at high RPM.

I actually ran out of fuel on 93 with no BAP, just VMP rails and ID1000s. My tuner said he thought it could be a weak pump (45k miles) so I could either buy a BAP or a fuel system. Since I wanted to go E85 eventually anyway, I just pulled the trigger on a dual pump return style setup and called it good.
 

Fast_351

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Never mind, went back and reread who posted :) Running out of fuel with a 92mm. I guess those things make some power even turned all the way down.

It looks like the VMP return fuel system is kind of expensive but pretty simple to install. I guess I could drop it in, and not worry about it. That way I'll be ready for the future, or at least give the tuner a fighting chance when it comes to fuel.

I guess to do this right, I should order the FRPP driveshaft, a set of OPG/CS, and a return fuel system, and roll that way. I have to imagine that's safe enough for the stock long block to live until I eventually tear it down to put in a forged rotating assembly.

WIST2013GT, how light is your car? 9.9@138 is pretty fast for 650RW. Must hook like a mofo...
 
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WIST2013GT

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Never mind, went back and reread who posted :) Running out of fuel with a 92mm. I guess those things make some power even turned all the way down.

It looks like the VMP return fuel system is kind of expensive but pretty simple to install. I guess I could drop it in, and not worry about it. That way I'll be ready for the future, or at least give the tuner a fighting chance when it comes to fuel.

I guess to do this right, I should order the FRPP driveshaft, a set of OPG/CS, and a return fuel system, and roll that way. I have to imagine that's safe enough for the stock long block to live until I eventually tear it down to put in a forged rotating assembly.

WIST2013GT, how light is your car? 9.9@138 is pretty fast for 650RW. Must hook like a mofo...

Sorry I didnt see this until now. My car is 3540 with a full tank. I'm 200ish so I'm guessing on race day it was shy of 3700 with a 1/2 tank. It hooks well, 1.51 60 foot and I was still dialing it in. I added an ARB since then and a catback (my 9.9 was with stock OAP and mufflers lol). I have the slip if you are interested.

AED is my tuner and he said the logs from my car looked similar to a VMP Gen2R on the 82mm pulley, which is what VMP said it would look like (3 pulley sizes for the same boost). Shaun said its probably towards the limits of safe, and based on weight and MPH I'd say its making ~675whp.
 

Fast_351

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All done:

img_4257.jpg


Uploaded all the pics and a couple movies of my blower install. 11GT Supercharger Install I did the VMP Gen3R budget kit. I also upgraded the oil pump gears and timing gear with MMR pieces while I had it halfway apart. Here are some of my observations:
• The instructions that come with the kit are decent but not complete. Watch videos. You will still need to do some analyzing on your own to figure things out. Don’t do this install if you’re not mechanically inclined.
• Tearing the engine apart goes pretty quick. I had the oil pump out of the car within 8 hours of popping the hood.
• When you get the intake off, TAPE OFF THE HOLE AT THE BACK OF THE VALLEY! Anything dropped here gets stuck behind the flywheel. I got lucky and avoided pulling the transmission. You might not be. I figure the tape will eventually let go with a few heat cycles.
• Pull the battery and tray to make valve cover removal easier. Not sure you can even do it without pulling the tray.
• Watch videos on Youtube for how to take the timing chains off. It’s different per generation.
• Buy or have a 10mm wrench you can bend up. Put a “Z” in the wrench so the bar is parallel to the box end. Just adding more angle to the box end will not allow you to put enough torque on the bolt to get it out.
• Drain the oil, and stuff a paper towel behind the pickup tube so if you do drop a bolt, it doesn’t go to the back of the oil pan.
• When you put your new pump gears in, use assembly lube so the engine will prime faster. Engine oil is too thin to prime it on the starter.
• I used a piece of cardboard with a hole in it and a slit to the edge to hold the pickup tube bolt and get it started in the oil pump. Then removed cardboard. This worked well.
• Spin the engine over a couple times with the oil pump bolts finger tight to center the pump. The bolts don’t locate the pump accurately. The engine will have all the valves closed so turning it over by hand isn’t an issue.
• When you put the timing chains back in, take a picture with your cell phone camera to see the blue marks on the chain to make sure they align. My inner chain was off a tooth. This is a much better time to catch this then when the car throws an error code and you have to tear it apart again.
• When you grind the cover, make sure you grind the entire rib off the cover. The manual picture shows it only going so far, but when I fit the spider I realized I had interference and had to grind the cover more in the car (I did it outside the car for the bulk of the work). Speaking of that, probably a good idea to test fit the spider and FEAD bracket before reinstalling the timing cover.
• Buy a real balancer installer. I bought the longer bolt from MMR and almost stripped my crank. Speaking of that, install the balancer with a ratchet instead of an impact.
• The fuel injector instructions in the manual are wrong. The fuel rail instructions are correct. You also have to rotate the injectors so the connectors are almost under the rail. They will hit the head if you try to go 90 degrees out like the instructions say.
• Before dropping the blower on, wire the intercooler pump radio intercept plug, the EGR and throttle body extension harnesses, and attach the brake vacuum to the blower. Getting at them will be difficult with the blower installed. I ended up removing the blower to run these after trying to sneak them under the elbow.
• Mount the intercooler at as much of a forward angle as you can get. This pushes the bottom towards the AC condenser. BTW, don’t bother removing the radiator, it gains you nothing.
• The bumper at least on my car needed to be trimmed a LOT. I have a GT/CS valence which didn’t help. Basically had to remove the vertical struts for both the valence and the bumper cover. I also had to cut a fair amount of material to get the bottom hose to clear. Plan on 2-3 hours for this. I had the bumper on and off a dozen times checking clearance.
• It is a good idea to prime the oil system on the starter before turning the fuel pumps back on. It took 20-25 seconds of cranking but I knew I had oil pressure before first startup.
• You will need some specialty tools for this job you may not have. They are not optional: 50-250 in.lb torque wrench, 3 jaw harmonic balancer puller if you’re doing OPGs, wobble extensions to reach hard to get to fasteners, small jewelers screwdriver or Exacto knife to depin the ECU harness and add the IAT wire.
• You SHOULD get a vacuum pump to refill your cooling and intercooler systems. Even though I used one, the car still sucked up a quart or two of coolant after the first drive. Between the spillage when I pulled the water pump and the intercooler system, I needed about 2.5 gallons of additional coolant. BTW, Prestone Dexcool is the correct coolant for anything that takes Motorcraft VC-3B. Advanced Auto has the concentrate for $20/gal.
• A hoist may not be required if you’re in your 20s and don’t mind laying on the ground, but I’m not and I would definitely not do this job without one.
• The VMP kit had a disturbing amount of extra bolts that don’t get used. It also had an extra molded hose which I assume is for different model years for the IC system.
• The VMP startup tune was right on. It idles and drives fine, no CELs, and my tuner said it’s good enough to go WOT if everything is installed right, which I did. I’m just waiting for some warmer weather to fine tune it.
• The only things that sucked is the dropped 6mm hex bit between the engine and transmission, and I didn’t discover the missing MAF extension harness until the last day. I ended up just extending the harness myself instead of waiting two days to start the car.
Total time to do the entire install was about 25 hours. 8 of that was the oil pump gears and extra time to do that disassembly/reassembly.
 

Fast_351

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One question though.

Feels a little slow. Best Dragy run is 12.8@121. Granted that's zero traction in first and second, but I was expecting more.

Overall it drives great though.
 

WIST2013GT

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One question though.

Feels a little slow. Best Dragy run is 12.8@121. Granted that's zero traction in first and second, but I was expecting more.

Overall it drives great though.

Do a 60-130 where you will have traction and that could give a better power indication.
 

WIST2013GT

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In my experience weight doesnt affect it too much as you are already moving fast enough. I can tell you my car went 5.96 and trapped 138 at ~3700 pounds.

This is the general consensus I have found:

whp 60-130 s
400 10
450 9
500 8
550 7.5
600 7
650 6.5
700 6
750 5.5
800 5
900 4.5

I think my car is slightly under 700whp but you kinda get the idea. Gearing will make a difference if there is an extra shift in there. On 93 pump my car went 6.84 so that seems accurate as well.
 

Riddick

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One question though.

Feels a little slow. Best Dragy run is 12.8@121. Granted that's zero traction in first and second, but I was expecting more.

Overall it drives great though.

Zero traction is the main factor here. Although you have the 3R blower its extremely choked and cant breathe. The Roush intakes are a huge restriction and it appears your running a GT500 twin 60mm throttle body which is also limiting air flow. The TVS rotor pack needs all the air it can get, even the VMP Twin 67mm throttle bodies are a restriction on these set ups. What's your exhaust set up, if you are on stock exhaust (headers / mid pipe) you have another restriction there.

A Gen 3R blower with a good air intake, throttle body, and exhaust should put down between 650-700 all day and easily trap low to mid 130s in the 1/4. I cant think of his name at the moment but there is a member on here who recently put down 700 on a 92mm pulley on pump gas with the VMP tune.

Once you free everything up the car will wake up tremendously.
 

Fast_351

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Yeah this is the Gen3R budget kit they have. Basically everything to get the car boosted but nothing more than that. I had already looked at exhaust, and you're right, I asked VMP and they said first thing is to open up the intake side. At the end of the day my goal for this car is a fun street toy, and I am mostly there already. A set of stickier tires and I think I can get it to at least hook somewhat in 2nd. I gave up 1/4 racing a long time ago, although I'm curious what it would run on slicks, I am not willing to grenade the MT82 to do it.

Glad to hear that 700 WHP is possible on pump 93 though. That seems like a decent goal for me.
 

00Whitey

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After getting mine back together with a new Gen 2 SB, I put down 640 at the wheels with a VMP Gen 3 on a mustang dyno, that's running an 88 mm pulley, the VMP twin 67 tb and long tubes no cats on 93 octane. Like said above, you may want to get rid of that GT500 tb and open up the exhaust.
 

Fast_351

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Is the JLT 123mm CAI worth it over the Roush CAI? Don't mind spending the money but it seems like the Roush would draw better cold air as it's using the stock air box inlet in front of the radiator.

I assume that the VMP 69 would just be a bolt in swap (with tune of course) for that setup.
 

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