Need Info: Low friction ball joint replacement

What is everyone using to replace our OEM low friction ball joints, besides the Steeda X2? The Steeda X2's are a metal on metal design I believe.

Ford OEM Low-Friction Ball Joint, 1979-2004 Mustang P/N F4ZZ-3050-B

SN95 Low Friction Ball Joints Extinct??!

I found the following possible replacements:

WHITELINE W53558
Front Ball joint - lower
These are not sealed but are engineered "Synthetic Elastomer" bushings.

TRW Automotive JBJ875 Suspension Ball Joint
These are manufactured using forged or cold-formed steel, they have low friction polymer bearings that enhance damping and reliability.

T3RM1N8R_18 said:

What is everyone using to replace our OEM low friction ball joints, besides the Steeda X2? The Steeda X2's are a metal on metal design I believe.

Ford OEM Low-Friction Ball Joint, 1979-2004 Mustang P/N F4ZZ-3050-B

SN95 Low Friction Ball Joints Extinct??!

I found the following possible replacements:

WHITELINE W53558
Front Ball joint - lower
These are not sealed but are engineered "Synthetic Elastomer" bushings.

TRW Automotive JBJ875 Suspension Ball Joint
These are manufactured using forged or cold-formed steel, they have low friction polymer bearings that enhance damping and reliability.

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I looked briefly and gave up then did the x2 swap and could not tell a difference in steering resistance. I don't think the factory ones were a significant improvement over a normal ball joint.

What about replacing the entire A-arm with the BMRs? Don't know if your goal is just to replace the originals due to age/wear or if you're looking to clean up the steering and suspension. I'm also not sure what type of ball joint they use specifically, but you get a choice of standard length or extended. I've been considering doing these over winter. Probably easier to just swap the whole arm versus pressing new joints in and out. Plus they're pretty. lol

TerminatoRS said:

What about replacing the entire A-arm with the BMRs? Don't know if your goal is just to replace the originals due to age/wear or if you're looking to clean up the steering and suspension. I'm also not sure what type of ball joint they use specifically, but you get a choice of standard length or extended. I've been considering doing these over winter. Probably easier to just swap the whole arm versus pressing new joints in and out. Plus they're pretty. lol

Click to expand...

This was the exact other option I was considering. Can't decide if I want to go that route or just stick with stock. I'm hoping to pick up a Steeda K-member with this second group buy that is going on right now. The review below I found on the BMR front control arms has me a little worried as they seem to have a slight design flaw with either their bushing material or how the A-arm holds and retains the bushing. Keep in mind, this is with an autocross car that did 15 events. A streetcar shouldn't have any issues but I'm still slightly concerned.

Proforged makes an x2 as well.
Kit comes with spring spacers too.
I switched to them from the Steedas.
You can get them on amazon.

shurur said:

Proforged makes an x2 as well.
Kit comes with spring spacers too.
I switched to them from the Steedas.
You can get them on amazon.

Click to expand...

Yes, I believe that is what BMR uses for their tall ball joint option on their A-arms.

TerminatoRS said:

What about replacing the entire A-arm with the BMRs? Don't know if your goal is just to replace the originals due to age/wear or if you're looking to clean up the steering and suspension. I'm also not sure what type of ball joint they use specifically, but you get a choice of standard length or extended. I've been considering doing these over winter. Probably easier to just swap the whole arm versus pressing new joints in and out. Plus they're pretty. lol

Click to expand...

FYI, talked to Maximum motorsports today think this makes my decision:

There is zero point in installing tubular FCAs which have spring mounts on them. They will be much more flexible than the stock FCAs. If you want improved bushings, just install stiffer bushings in your existing FCAs. Much cheaper. If you are going to install coilovers, then use a tubular FCA. Tubular FCAs are much more flexible than stock FCAs when looking at their bending stiffness from spring loads. Once you remove the spring load from them by moving the spring to the strut, you can then make the FCA much lighter by going to a tubular design. The tubular design has very high stiffness to cornering and braking loads.

Nothing fancy here, just replacing with moog


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