McLeod RXT or Centerforce DYAD

Chrome98Cobra

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Looking to get some opinions on which clutch to go with for my 03 Cobra that will be making around 800rwhp.

Anyone have experience with one or even both? I was planning on sticking with an aluminum flywheel and it’s looking like the Centerforce comes with a steel flywheel. I like that the McLeod comes with an aluminum flywheel but I’ve read about people having issues with the pivot ball height and that not being an issue with the Centerforce.

Centerforce 413114805 Mustang Twin Disc DYAD Clutch Kit - 26 Spline (1996-2010 Mustang GT / Cobra / Mach-1 / 2007-2009 Shelby GT500)

McLeod Racing 6335807HD RXT 1200 HD Twin Disc Power Pack | Order Your 6335807HD RXT 1200 HD McLeod Twin Disc Power Pack for the 2007-2009 GT500 and the 1996-2000 Mustang GT, Cobra and Mach-1 at Lethal Performance

Thanks!
 
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01yellercobra

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I'm running an RXT. Really you can run whichever flywheel you want. I don't know which flywheel I have as the car came with the clutch in it already. Knowing what I know about the PO it's probably a McLeod piece.

Overall I'm happy with the clutch. Holds fine and isn't a pain in traffic. I'm only around 600hp though and don't hit the track often. IMO, the pivot ball isn't a big deal. You'll probably need to swap in a new one anyway. Checking the height and freeplay isn't bad. But I'm sure a lot of people like that the DYAD is a drop in and go kinda thing. I don't have any experience with that clutch though.
 

Black Gold 380R

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I'm not sure which is better. I run a McLeod in my Cobra and love it. No pivot ball problems at all.

I know the DYAD is a bit more expensive.

I'm trying to get a transmission set up for my 65 build. American Powertrain quoted me with the DYAD. I asked them to remove it from my quote because I'm going to run the McLeod in my 65 as well. Cut my quote by 1/3.

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Albatross

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@Chrome98Cobra, did you ever pull the trigger on one of these clutches? I have been researching clutches for weeks and am stuck between these two or the new Tilton piece. The McLeod seems to be the most popular choice because it is the least expensive. It seems people either love or hate the McLeod. Not a lot of info on the Centerforce. Almost no info on the Tilton. Would like to hear more opinions before these killer holiday sales are over.
 

MG0h3

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Most the info you’ll see about the McLeod is people repeating the ignorance they see on FB. It’s crazy because they’ll defend their nonsense like their life depends on it.

So the issue is that the Mcleod is a bit taller. This puts the PP fingers further back. This causes two issues.

One is the geometry on the clutch fork, hence everyone talking about pivot ball height. I ran a regular RXT on a Fidanza flywheel for 14k miles on the stock pivot ball. It didn’t fully engage until the very top. I actually loved it. Very light pedal. Shortening the pivot ball will make the clutch release sooner. I reduced my pivot ball height by @6mm and it’s fully released @2/3 of pedal out.

I don’t know if some other flywheels are taller which could play into this as well.

Issue 2 is area between the PP fingers and the face of the trans. Obviously you have the TOB and fork in this area as well. As clutches wear, the PP fingers move out or back, reducing the distance between the PP fingers and trans face. Eventually, you will have sandwiched the TOB/fork between the fingers and trans face. You know have constant pressure on the PP and you’ll start to slip.

The fix is clearancing the fork and trans face a little at the contact points.

I’ve since upgraded to the RXT1200. Prob 1000 miles on it. No complaints what so ever.


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Albatross

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@MG0h3, thanks so much for the info. I definitely take everything I read on the internet with a grain of salt. Especially on Facebook. Everyone who can hold a wrench is an expert. Haha.

I understand that the McLeod unit may be taller than the stock unit and this is what requires the adjustable pivot ball. I am seeing so many people guess at how much shorter the pivot ball should be. Is there a way to have a more "educated" guess. For example, could you measure the height of the stock clutch from the back of the block to the point where the release bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers before taking it all the way out. Then bolt up the McLeod and take the same measurement. Say the McLeod unit measures 4mm taller. Would you then need the pivot ball 4mm shorter? Or whatever the difference is. Do you get what I mean?
 

Blkkbgt

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I have never run either of those particular clutches but I'll tell your this. I'll NEVER run another centerforce clutch.

Why? Simple, the weights chatter at idle. Unless you have a loud exhaust you will hear it in every drive through, in your garage, next to larger vehicle like vans at the light. The only way to get rid of it is to hold the clutch pedal on the floor or raise the idle above 1k.

Damn good clutch overall dont get me wrong but the noise is not worth it IMOP. I wish I had listen to people before buying one years ago.
 

MG0h3

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@MG0h3, thanks so much for the info. I definitely take everything I read on the internet with a grain of salt. Especially on Facebook. Everyone who can hold a wrench is an expert. Haha.

I understand that the McLeod unit may be taller than the stock unit and this is what requires the adjustable pivot ball. I am seeing so many people guess at how much shorter the pivot ball should be. Is there a way to have a more "educated" guess. For example, could you measure the height of the stock clutch from the back of the block to the point where the release bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers before taking it all the way out. Then bolt up the McLeod and take the same measurement. Say the McLeod unit measures 4mm taller. Would you then need the pivot ball 4mm shorter? Or whatever the difference is. Do you get what I mean?

Everything else being equal, your theory is correct. Everyone goes somewhere between 5-6mm and reports good results. That’s what I did and no issues.


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Bdubbs

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I'm running the dyad. Probably only around 1k miles on it. Mine grabs about 1" off the floor with a stock pivot ball.

I like it so far and pedal is super light. Zero chatter. I'm around the 700 rwhp range I would guess.



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Comp04svt

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Looking to get some opinions on which clutch to go with for my 03 Cobra that will be making around 800rwhp.

Anyone have experience with one or even both? I was planning on sticking with an aluminum flywheel and it’s looking like the Centerforce comes with a steel flywheel. I like that the McLeod comes with an aluminum flywheel but I’ve read about people having issues with the pivot ball height and that not being an issue with the Centerforce.
@MG0h3, thanks so much for the info. I definitely take everything I read on the internet with a grain of salt. Especially on Facebook. Everyone who can hold a wrench is an expert. Haha.

I understand that the McLeod unit may be taller than the stock unit and this is what requires the adjustable pivot ball. I am seeing so many people guess at how much shorter the pivot ball should be. Is there a way to have a more "educated" guess. For example, could you measure the height of the stock clutch from the back of the block to the point where the release bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers before taking it all the way out. Then bolt up the McLeod and take the same measurement. Say the McLeod unit measures 4mm taller. Would you then need the pivot ball 4mm shorter? Or whatever the difference is. Do you get what I mean?

I have the RXT, and was on the fence between the DYAD and the RXT when I was shopping. I went with the RXT, because at the time, Lethal was offering 20% for black Friday. I already had a Fidanza flywheel, so it was super cheap to go with the RXT and just buy a new insert for the flywheel, as opposed to buying the whole DYAD setup. I then set out and did hours of research through facebook and SVTP on how people set them up and what worked and didn't. I made a thread here when I installed mine then goes over how I set mine up: https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/my-rxt-install-adjustment-tips-and-cable-insulation.1159355/

So that link is how I did mine if you want to read it. Cliff notes are that I put the Fidanza/spec3 combo on a flat surface. Measured the overall height. Installed the RXT on the Fidanza and measured the overall height. That difference (11mm) is how much shorter I made the pivot. Using that method had my engagement how it was before with the spec3, and the fork in the same position.

Over the course of my research I found a lot of people just guess at how the pivot is set. Most never cared to actually measure and find out what to properly set the pivot at and just used a random height based on others' installs. 5-6mm shorter is generally a good setting if using stock/Mcloed flywheel, but flywheel choice does make a difference. The RXT/RST is thicker than stock some, but I found the Fidanza/SPEC flywheels seem to be a little thicker than Mcloed/stock. Some people had issues with premature wear. I would say because using the stock pivot, depending on what flywheel used, would lead to the clutch not fully being engaged over time when things wore some.

Overall, the RXT is ok. Light pedal, minimal noise unless lugging in 4th/5th/6th, and I still have some light chatter. The chatter never really bothered me much because the spec3 was the same. The amount of chatter may be because of flywheel choice. I would guess that a lightened steel/steel flywheel would help absorb some if not all of that. When the time comes It'll be a tough one to either go DYAD, or rebuild the RXT and switch to a different flywheel.
 

psycholx

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I never ran a RXT or DYAD, but I do run a centerforce and I love it. I read a lot about noise at idle with the RXT. I
 

01yellercobra

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I never ran a RXT or DYAD, but I do run a centerforce and I love it. I read a lot about noise at idle with the RXT. I
I think a few people had that issue then the internet ran with it. Mine is quiet. I have a hiss that I hear when moving the car in the garage when it starts to engage. Anyone local to me with this clutch doesn't have any odd noises either.
 

psycholx

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I think a few people had that issue then the internet ran with it. Mine is quiet. I have a hiss that I hear when moving the car in the garage when it starts to engage. Anyone local to me with this clutch doesn't have any odd noises either.
Thats probably what happened, most replies probably never experienced that why I said I read. Good to get a honest experienced answer.
 

01yellercobra

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Thats probably what happened, most replies probably never experienced that why I said I read. Good to get a honest experienced answer.
I should add that back when I frequented an S197 forum I saw a few guys complain about noise. I think most, if not all ended up pulling the trans because something was messed up in the install of the clutch.
 

TP03

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I have never run either of those particular clutches but I'll tell your this. I'll NEVER run another centerforce clutch.

Why? Simple, the weights chatter at idle. Unless you have a loud exhaust you will hear it in every drive through, in your garage, next to larger vehicle like vans at the light. The only way to get rid of it is to hold the clutch pedal on the floor or raise the idle above 1k.

Damn good clutch overall dont get me wrong but the noise is not worth it IMOP. I wish I had listen to people before buying one years ago.


I've never heard this before about a DYAD. I have one waiting to go in this spring. I hope you're wrong, because that will annoy me. Anyone else experience this with a DYAD?
 

Blkkbgt

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I've never heard this before about a DYAD. I have one waiting to go in this spring. I hope you're wrong, because that will annoy me. Anyone else experience this with a DYAD?

Again my experience was not with the DYAD but rather the regular centerforce dual friction clutch.

I am certain that me holding the clutch in all the time caused my throw out bearing to die pretty quick, about 25k if I remember correctly. It finally died at the track one night after it started making some squeaking a few weeks prior. I knew it was on its way out and didn't care. I already order a replacement.

I remember trying to track down a noise on the accessories and having my wife sit in the car with the clutch in so I could find it. I couldn't pin it down with the car idling in neutral.

Again I hope this isn't your experience but for me I'll pass on centerforce.
 

cidsamuth

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I've had RST and RXT clutches on both the 3650 and now Magnum XL. Both have light pedal force and high engagement. I was told explicitly by McLeod technical support that the high engagement was deliberate for faster shifts.

My only complaint is that everyone of them have the "marbles in a coffee can" sound when you lug it, especially in 4th where you have the 1:1 ratio. I know this is because of the unsprung dual clutch and that these are "big boy power" sounds, but you'd think a solution could be found.
 

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