Definitely tight in some spots. Heat protection will be needed in some areas to protect wires and hoses.
Build thread: Project "Exterminator". Twin turbo 2018 F150 RCSB 5.0 A10 4x4.
- Thread starter olympic
- Start date
Definitely tight in some spots. Heat protection will be needed in some areas to protect wires and hoses.
So bad ass.
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Yeah it's a mess...lol. Every time I work on it another 10lb of dirt falls off! I didn't realize just how bad it was underneath until I had started pulling parts off and it was too late to do anything about it. I'll get it cleaned up once it can move under it's own power again.
Todays progress: suspension work consisting of a Vas Fabrication 3/5 drop kit and traction bars along with Viking adjustable shocks and coilovers.
Rear axle flip kit and shock relocationkit.
Rear shocks
Traction bars.
Front coilover kit
I have Vas Fab tubular adjustable upper control arms in transit but they're still a good week away so this is as far as I could go with the front suspension.
This is how it sits with the rear flip kit installed. It's lower than I imagined and of course looks goofy with the stock wheels but should look killer with 22's!
Rear axle flip kit and shock relocationkit.
Rear shocks
Traction bars.
Front coilover kit
I have Vas Fab tubular adjustable upper control arms in transit but they're still a good week away so this is as far as I could go with the front suspension.
This is how it sits with the rear flip kit installed. It's lower than I imagined and of course looks goofy with the stock wheels but should look killer with 22's!
Please provide feedback on the suspension once you get the truck moving. I have the same kit on mine and honestly, the ride kind of sucks in the rear. Im thinking of swapping the rear Vikings for some bilsteins in the near future.
Only difference is I’m running SPC arms in the front.
Loving this build! Keep up the good work!
Fuel rails showed up! I chose Radium because they are completely billet including the mounting tabs, they have ports built-in for the fuel pressure sensor and high pressure direct-injection pump, and the price is very reasonable. I also picked up a fuel pulse damper, probably not necessary but it can't hurt. Fuel injectors are Fuel Injector Clinic 1000cc.
Cold side piping and BOV. Very nicely built, very light. Bead rolling at all joints.
Intercooler. Nice looking, very well built, integrated flange for the BOV. The mounting system is kind of sketchy though. 2
brackets hold up the IC from the bottom and the rest just kind of leans against the AC condensor.
I had to trim the fan assembly a tiny bit to clear the charge pipe but nothing serious. The drivers side turbo outlet pipe is up against the lower rad hose but since they both move with the engine is shouldn't matter. Other than that it all went together perfectly.
Cold side piping and BOV. Very nicely built, very light. Bead rolling at all joints.
Intercooler. Nice looking, very well built, integrated flange for the BOV. The mounting system is kind of sketchy though. 2
brackets hold up the IC from the bottom and the rest just kind of leans against the AC condensor.
I had to trim the fan assembly a tiny bit to clear the charge pipe but nothing serious. The drivers side turbo outlet pipe is up against the lower rad hose but since they both move with the engine is shouldn't matter. Other than that it all went together perfectly.
Looking good!
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Can't wait to see it run.
Twin noisy boys up top. Will the hood clear? Gonna be a beast! Looks dope!
Update time! Unfortunately I'm waiting on a lot of parts so I've ben keeping busy with stuff I have on hand. First up is an On3 catch can system. Very nice quality kit! I decided to mount it on the drivers side where the air box used to be. I attached the -10 hose to the valve covers with the factory 90 degree quick connects. The PCV valve on the passenger side was hollowed out.
The highest trim level available in a regular cab is the XLT, which means no leather seats. I shopped around for used leather seats but all of them had blown air bags and I didn't want to deal with that. After a lot of research I settled on Katzkin leather replacements. These are not traditional seat covers, you actually have to remove your old upholstery and install the Katzkin replacements which attach to the seat frame exactly like factory. The material is high quality top grain genuine leather. There are hundreds of colors and designs to choose from, I decided to go with a simple black with red stitching combination.
I ended up buying a kit for an XLT crew cab because it was cheaper than ordering a kit for a single cab..lol! It comes packed in a single large box.
First seat stripped down. If you decide to attempt this, I highly suggest you watch some youtube videos on the procedure. There are some parts that will ruin the seat if not one correctly.
Upper half installed. As stated everything fits just like factory and has provisions for the air bag.
Installing the seat cushion. factory style clips are used throughout.
Clips installed.
The highest trim level available in a regular cab is the XLT, which means no leather seats. I shopped around for used leather seats but all of them had blown air bags and I didn't want to deal with that. After a lot of research I settled on Katzkin leather replacements. These are not traditional seat covers, you actually have to remove your old upholstery and install the Katzkin replacements which attach to the seat frame exactly like factory. The material is high quality top grain genuine leather. There are hundreds of colors and designs to choose from, I decided to go with a simple black with red stitching combination.
I ended up buying a kit for an XLT crew cab because it was cheaper than ordering a kit for a single cab..lol! It comes packed in a single large box.
First seat stripped down. If you decide to attempt this, I highly suggest you watch some youtube videos on the procedure. There are some parts that will ruin the seat if not one correctly.
Upper half installed. As stated everything fits just like factory and has provisions for the air bag.
Installing the seat cushion. factory style clips are used throughout.
Clips installed.
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Finished product. I probably spent 6 hours on the first seat between watching videos and the actual install. The second seat probably took 2 hours. They're a little wrinkly right now but they'll smooth out after a while.
Next I'll be replacing the factory screen and climate controls with a Linkswell T-Style 12" touch screen head unit.
The head unit is plug and play but there are a ton of connections and it comes with basically zero instructions so youtube to the rescue again!
Anyone who followed my Terminator build knows that no build is complete without a sound system!
I chose Alpines X series components to fit in the factory locations. I'll also be adding a sub and amp later on once I get the interior re-installed and have an idea of how much space there is behind the seats.
Next I'll be replacing the factory screen and climate controls with a Linkswell T-Style 12" touch screen head unit.
The head unit is plug and play but there are a ton of connections and it comes with basically zero instructions so youtube to the rescue again!
Anyone who followed my Terminator build knows that no build is complete without a sound system!
I chose Alpines X series components to fit in the factory locations. I'll also be adding a sub and amp later on once I get the interior re-installed and have an idea of how much space there is behind the seats.Routing the 4ga power cable through a factory firewall grommet using a wire insertion tool. I've had these for years, very handy if you do automotive wiring.
This is the factory tweeter in the A-pillar.
I made a simple bracket out of aluminum to attach the Alpine tweeter to the A-pillar.
The drivers side A-pillar will be replaced with an Autometer single gauge pod. It has provisions for a factory style tweeter.
This is the factory tweeter in the A-pillar.
I made a simple bracket out of aluminum to attach the Alpine tweeter to the A-pillar.
The drivers side A-pillar will be replaced with an Autometer single gauge pod. It has provisions for a factory style tweeter.
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AEM boost/air fuel failsafe gauge. I can't show installed pics for the seats/interior as I'm waiting on some other important stuff that needs to go in first.
Vas Fab adjustable upper control arms. These are designed specifically for lowered trucks to correct caster, camber and ball joint angle.
Ride height adjusted and wheel alignment completed. The truck measures perfectly level at the wheel arches. I may lower the front slightly for a bit of rake but 4x4's are limited by CV joint angle.
Caster/camber/toe plates, highly recommended for DIY alignemnts.
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Measuring camber is extremely easy.
I was aiming for somewhere between -.25 and -0.5 degrees. Close enough.
Measuring toe is also very easy. Lean the plates against the wheels and measure total toe with the tape measures. It's hard to show caster on camera but I measured 6 degrees on the right and 5.5 on the left.
It takes about 30 seconds to pop the door glass out once the door panels are removed so I had a local shop apply some 18% tint.
Door speakers installed. Running new speaker wire through the grommets into the doors is impossible so I re-used the factory wire in the door and tapped into these wires at the head unit to supply power from the amp.
All wiring routed behind the seat for amp/sub installation. I haven't decided on the exact configuration.
We're getting close now! Things left to do:
1) Install return fuel system
2) Plumb turbo oil drains
3) wrap merge pipe and install w/cut-outs.
4)Install heat protection on various wiring and hoses.
All 4 above are awaiting parts from Summit Racing, should be here next week.
4)Install interior. Awaiting a shifter cable from Ford. Local dealer is having trouble getting one due to it being involved in a recall. Also awaiting interior paint to change some panels from beige to black.
I was aiming for somewhere between -.25 and -0.5 degrees. Close enough.
Measuring toe is also very easy. Lean the plates against the wheels and measure total toe with the tape measures. It's hard to show caster on camera but I measured 6 degrees on the right and 5.5 on the left.
It takes about 30 seconds to pop the door glass out once the door panels are removed so I had a local shop apply some 18% tint.
Door speakers installed. Running new speaker wire through the grommets into the doors is impossible so I re-used the factory wire in the door and tapped into these wires at the head unit to supply power from the amp.
All wiring routed behind the seat for amp/sub installation. I haven't decided on the exact configuration.
We're getting close now! Things left to do:
1) Install return fuel system
2) Plumb turbo oil drains
3) wrap merge pipe and install w/cut-outs.
4)Install heat protection on various wiring and hoses.
All 4 above are awaiting parts from Summit Racing, should be here next week.
4)Install interior. Awaiting a shifter cable from Ford. Local dealer is having trouble getting one due to it being involved in a recall. Also awaiting interior paint to change some panels from beige to black.
Moving along!
Coworker just got his Odin installed on his 20 Single cab. Also did the big touch dash and a raptor steering wheel.
Coworker just got his Odin installed on his 20 Single cab. Also did the big touch dash and a raptor steering wheel.
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