The exhaust system should all bolt together and you could just use your existing O2 sensors. It is still possible to add a WB sensor if needed just like you did with the stock exhaust.
2010 Dyno numbers - somewhat disappointed
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He hasn't added a wide band yet. It's not that hard. Any decent shop can do it. They just need a mount location for the gauge, and to drill a new bung at the correct angle. I did an AEM and mounted it in the AC vent to the right of the steering wheel with a mount I found on ETSY believe it or not. The same guy sells them on eBay too, but it was $10 cheaper on ETSY. As for not noticing much difference in power with the Gen2R over your stock M122 with a smaller pulley, you probably haven't went WOT in it yet in 3rd and 4th, because it SHOULD pull much much different then it did. I mean DRASTICALLY different. I went from stock M122, HE and injectors, with a METCO pulley and JLT123 (which was probably 530ish at the wheels), to the Gen2R, BAP, 52'S and got 656 at the wheels and it gets up 9n the limiter in 1st really quick, I can blow the tires away in 2nd, and in 3rd at 70 miles an hour with Nitro 555's in 285/40/18'S and I still could on MT's 305"s. I just picked up some NT05's in a 315/40/18 so we'll see if they are any better once I get this new crap, I am dealing with, ironed out.
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If I get the replacement exhaust pipes that Black05Shelby suggested I can weld it in myself before mounting.....I did not want to yank my existing exhaust off...lot of work plus safety loop on now too and only have jack stands and ramps.
I looked at welding the bun in on my back with exhaust in the car but without a high lift it would have been a cob job.
If I replace the pipes with upgraded 11-14 exhaust and replace the MAF like the tuner suggested, I suspect I need another tune for it in the spring. HE will get installed if I find one sale this winter. After that I am done unless I do the MGW shifter....??? not sure I need it really. I have no 2nd gear grind in my car.
HKusp -- did you change from 19's to 18's for tire fitment purposes or do you have a convertible? I thought stock they were 19 on the coupes. I installed the Ford brake 6 piston kit and I think the 19s were required. I also see you are getting 25more HP than me.
I looked at welding the bun in on my back with exhaust in the car but without a high lift it would have been a cob job.
If I replace the pipes with upgraded 11-14 exhaust and replace the MAF like the tuner suggested, I suspect I need another tune for it in the spring. HE will get installed if I find one sale this winter. After that I am done unless I do the MGW shifter....??? not sure I need it really. I have no 2nd gear grind in my car.
HKusp -- did you change from 19's to 18's for tire fitment purposes or do you have a convertible? I thought stock they were 19 on the coupes. I installed the Ford brake 6 piston kit and I think the 19s were required. I also see you are getting 25more HP than me.
this is just a thought, that the hangar locations for the entire exhaust are configured different on the 2010s than all other model years? Maybe I am wrong.
But I have seen people pass up on used parts because of this
But I have seen people pass up on used parts because of this
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640 to the wheels is nothing to sneeze at, especially since your car made around 440 to the wheels stock! You added 200 hp with some simple bolt ons you did yourself. Throw on a one piece driveshaft and taller gears and go have fun!
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I am getting pictures from the manuals to see if the counting brackets on the pipes are in different locations. I can weld steel brackets on if I have to,,, just don't know how accurate some of the pictures really are in the manuals.
I just don't want to attract tickets from NY troopers with a loud exhaust.
Boost is pretty high for pump gas. If you’re still on the stock cats, I’d be personally very worried about them.
Even if you don’t want to do headers, a mid pipe and full exhaust would drop the boost and pick up good power. Definitely consider the free flowing exhaust
You may not even need a retune but I’m not as familiar with the 2010s.
-J
Even if you don’t want to do headers, a mid pipe and full exhaust would drop the boost and pick up good power. Definitely consider the free flowing exhaust
You may not even need a retune but I’m not as familiar with the 2010s.
-J
I won’t swear this works because I never went ahead and did it, but I did a pretty deep dive on researching it. Everything I found is that yes the hanger brackets themselves are different between my 2010 and the ‘11-‘14 cars, BUT the hanger brackets between the different years have all the same bolt hole locations and should bolt right up. The least expensive way to test this would be to just get the brackets (even for only one side) that the mufflers hang from and if they do bolt right in you’re good to go with the conversion. Below are the rear hanger brackets from ‘11-‘14 cars. Everything I could see under my 2010 looked like the same hole locations in the chassis.
View attachment 1673556
View attachment 1673557
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-pJWgZDv/0/df977e2e/L/i-pJWgZDv-L.jpg
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You can use your stock exhaust as a template to see exactly where the brackets should go to match, and as far as loud exhaust goes don't forget your using Stock exhaust pieces which have been approved in all 50 states already. The cops will not even question it .
He never discussed the setup details in great length...but when I told him I had BAMA tunes previously he said they were usually over advanced in the timing and that may be why I had some intermittent issues (noises - pinging possibly ?? could never tell). I do not think the 2010 had knock sensors like the 2011 and up. I think the tuner is more conservative in his timing and he also knew I did not want to detonate this engine. He had a 2009 Shelby himself.
My CAI was only two years old and it is almost identical to the one VMP includes with their budget kit. The only difference I noticed was that the newer JLT plastic tube is slightly thicker than the old one (probably due to the overtightening issues) and it was also slightly shorter by abou tan inch. Both were the 123mm style. My tuner is in NY Speidell Supercars.
Boost is pretty high for pump gas. If you’re still on the stock cats, I’d be personally very worried about them.
Even if you don’t want to do headers, a mid pipe and full exhaust would drop the boost and pick up good power. Definitely consider the free flowing exhaust
You may not even need a retune but I’m not as familiar with the 2010s.
-J
Thanks,
I noticed that too and expected a maximum boost of about 17lbs based on what VMP recommends and my height above sea level. That's why I went with the 2.5 pulley on stock crank. I think two things may account for the higher boost. The day of the dyno it was probably between 45 and 50 degrees outside when he started his runs and they keep their garage doors open during many of their dyno tests from what I saw in the past. I think the cooler air dense outside and in the dyno area may cause a slight increase in the overall boost displayed by the dyno. I asked about that before and was told he accounts for that during his tuning process. The second thing that may be increasing the boost is the back pressure in the exhaust like you suggested. I read that this usually shows up as a bump up in the very high rpm levels which is what I see right before it reaches the 6000 mark. I think that bump up is my exhaust pressure but I am guessing. That's why I considering looking for the 13/14 and 11 exhaust pieces to swap out but keep my car somewhat quiet.
I believe the '07-'09's were 18 inch stock, that being said, I bought mine used and it came with 18's and relocation brackets so I can run a 15 inch drag radial if need be.
Can u give me the name of the guy on etsy or ebay selling the ac vent mounts?
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I'll look and see if I can find it.
3dspecialtyUS on Etsy
That's the link to the company I got mine from. I saw somebody had one for the N-gauge too. Not sure if it's the same guy/company.
That's the link to the company I got mine from. I saw somebody had one for the N-gauge too. Not sure if it's the same guy/company.
Good old Bob. Tuned my 03 Cobra back in the day when he was in the Chicagoland area. Solid numbers for the set up!!
OP - I know a few already said this, but I would toss on an O/R H pipe at a minimum. They are cheap and now that your making some good power those cats might not be to happy down the road. Nice set up you got there!!
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Ya man. He been tuning my stuff since 2010. Met him by dumb luck in California during one of his spring tuning visits to GTR.
Left SoCal, moved to Georgia to be closer to him. Lol
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Left SoCal, moved to Georgia to be closer to him. Lol
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Wide band install.....Which of the AEM sensors / gauges should be used on the 2010 GT500? I notice they have several models and some appear to be analogue and some digital. I also see only one sensor with gauges so is only one W/B sensor installed and if so which side gets the bung? I'll add it this winter and install the ETSY vent mount which looks pretty nice on the drivers side.
Here is the only pre-cat location with proper wideband O2 sensor orientation and clearance that I have found on a 2007-2010, drivers side. It remains accessible for replacement if necessary, but must be removed for mid-pipe removal and installation. Please don't critique the weld blob... Joe the rag man at Midas welded the bung in for me in a rush job; it is air tight though. My wideband O2 sensor has been trouble free for over 6 years.
Okay..thanks!!
I should be able to do that myself but it does look like a tight fit. I'll mark it up before I pull the pipe. My welding skills will suffice.
Does these kits usually come with a bung or do I have to find one myself with the proper threads?
I should be able to do that myself but it does look like a tight fit. I'll mark it up before I pull the pipe. My welding skills will suffice.
Does these kits usually come with a bung or do I have to find one myself with the proper threads?
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