2010 Dyno numbers - somewhat disappointed

XP900

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Installed the VMP Gen2R Budget kit with 2.5 pulley, VMP 67TB, 1000cc DW injectors along with the dual pump boosters, along with existing JLT CAI. Tuner sad he could only get 640 peak HP and slightly lower torque at the rear and said the boost was really maxed out and at the limit for 93 octane. He said the MAF was maxing out at 5v and for more power I would need to replace the MAF and get pipes (stock exhaust still on.) I have not seen the actual dyno printout yet - didn't pick up the car.

So with pipes and a new MAF, how much more power would I really expect to get? I would need to keep it legal for yearly NYS inspection every year so cats have to stay on too. Price wise it may not be economical to go any further. Stock HE still on but may upgrade that at least.
 

Klaus

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Do "pipes" include headers? You should expect 660-680 if so.
 

GNBRETT

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Better question which dyno did u use? If thats on a Mustang dyno those numbers are right.

A set of Kooks headers will make a huge difference. I personally dont think the stock exhaust (Cat back) is really much of a restriction on a blower car. But u would probably want to pulley down if u go with a set of headers. U will need to re-tune it tho.

Cats can be hollowed out. They only inspect if they are there or not, not if they work. U could also do a Boostane tune and bring ur octane up to a 100 but that will require Boostane each time u go out but should add another 60-70 hp with increased timing.
 

SSSSSSSSSSSSVT

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Numbers sound right to me. 2.3L blower cars make 600-650 rwhp from what I’ve seen. You need to step up to bigger blower for more power.
 

CobraBob

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Numbers sound right to me. 2.3L blower cars make 600-650 rwhp from what I’ve seen. You need to step up to bigger blower for more power.
That's why I asked the question. His numbers aren't far off from what I'd expect.
 

SCGallo2

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So with pipes and a new MAF, how much more power would I really expect to get? I would need to keep it legal for yearly NYS inspection every year so cats have to stay on too. Price wise it may not be economical to go any further.

Power wise, sounds about right. I am a little surprised that you are maxing the MAF sensor at that level. You could install a larger CAI / MAF housing and an off-road mid-pipe for a little bump in power, leaving the stock exhaust manifolds in place. But once a year, you would need to switch out the off-road mid-pipe with your catted one to pass emissions testing. It may not be worth the recurring effort involved.

I am in a similar boat, maxing out my Whipple 123mm MAF housing with a Whipple 2.9 Gen 4 with near stock exhaust. The expense of a new MAF housing and full exhaust (and pains associated with headers) is not worth the small performance benefit on my pump gas street car.
 

HKusp

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When you drive it, you won't be disappointed in those numbers over what you were used to. 640 on the street is a lot of fun, and if you don't have at least drag radials will be VERY traction limited, especially this time of year in New York.
 

CobraBob

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I only WISH that I had a street car making anywhere near 640. LOL.
 

IronTerp

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Be curious to know what timing your tuner is writing in the computer for the 93 octane tune? Also wondering about the "existing" JLT CAI. There's still some 110mm JLT kits floating around. I originally had one on my 07' before upgrading to the 123mm kit. Maxing out the MAF could certainly be a RWHP limiting factor.

WHo is your tuner by the way? Some real good ones in Maryland.
 

me32

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Sounds like about right numbers. You are putting alot of strain on the stock cats with that kit. As for the maf if its a 110 housing then I'm sure its at its limits. Thats when a whipple or cobra jet 123mm housing will come into play. But I would be more concerned about the cats at that power level now.
 

1Kona_Venom

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Just for reference.

Gen2R 2.5" upper on 93 / 56# Inj/ JLT 123
STOCK MANIFOLDS, o/r H and STOCK CATBACK




48116440046_8a1f0e7e55_h.jpg
 

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Black05Shelby

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Have a thought for the original poster, you could also pick up the stock H-pipe from a 13/14 and the over axle and mufflers from a 11/12 gt500 and you would be upgrading from what you have now and no one would be the wiser. 11 to 14 have 2 3/4 piping, 13/14 have the best stock cats and the 11/12 have the same exhaust tips as your car does so no changing the rear bumper valance. Every bolts right up to your stock manifolds. You will pick up sound and power and everything should be pretty cheap to pick up cause everything is just stock parts.
 

XP900

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My HP is actually less than I quoted. Picked up the car today and the sheets and talked to the tuner. He said the MAF was holding it back and it needs to he changed (was reading at max voltage - 5 something??) if I wanted any more power or wanted to make any more changes...like pipes. He said pipes, MAF and HE are the only other things he would do and he had specific parts in mind....not cheap either.

So basically this is the result of a 2010 with 43K miles and the VMP budget kit (Gen2r, 2.5" pulley, JLT 123 CAI, 67mm VMP TB, 95ln DW injectors, 93 octane and the VMP dual pump boost kit that I wired in. Stock exhaust to rears. Everything else basically stock (3.55, tire size) alum driveshaft.

After watching VMP PERFORMANCE You tubes on their 2011 GT500 mods I was expecting more like 670-690 but I have a feeling I missed part of the video and they may have had a retune and used E85 to get to their levels.

Here are the dyno sheets

upload_2020-11-20_0-17-55.png




upload_2020-11-20_0-19-40.png



In the second sheet the second entry is the VMP tune that they created for my car with their Gen2R budget kit and they were using the same options for the car.
That's what he used as a baseline. I did not datalog for VMP for retunes since I had no wideband on the car. Tuner used his wbands in the front O2 locations.


One thing I noticed immediately is the difference in the drive and power compared to my VMP supplied tune that I ran for a week....basically used that tune to get the car to the tuner. I have no more idling issues, car starts and idles down like it should and coming to a light while pressing the clutch in no longer causes idle drops and pickups, with me wondering if I am going to stall out -- all gone and 100% better whatever he did. VMP tune was also slightly bucking with light acc pedal and that issue is also gone. Pedal is the way I like it....the harder I press the more power I get and not all at once as soon as the pedal is touched and no bucking at any point.

I just hope it stays this way for a while and gives me some peace of mind.

On street...in NY temp is only like 48 and I have Pilot Sport 4S tires....with traction off it spins in 2 and 3rd when I press it hard so it is too cold to get a true feeling of the extra power and full boost. It does have more power than my stock with a 2.5 and CAI setup with the BAMA 93 race tune as they called it but not drastically more!

tune was $750...not cheap...and he did 10 pulls he said and road tested it. They also found my scraping noise that started 3 miles before I got to their shop. I though it was either a stone stuck the rotor guard or I just blew another pinion bearing (replaced one at 28K) when I punched it for a quick test before getting there. There was a branch that had jammed in my rocker panel underneath and it was scraping on the ground....somehow I missed it when i had looked underneath. $400 and hours of my life saved!
 

XP900

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Have a thought for the original poster, you could also pick up the stock H-pipe from a 13/14 and the over axle and mufflers from a 11/12 gt500 and you would be upgrading from what you have now and no one would be the wiser. 11 to 14 have 2 3/4 piping, 13/14 have the best stock cats and the 11/12 have the same exhaust tips as your car does so no changing the rear bumper valance. Every bolts right up to your stock manifolds. You will pick up sound and power and everything should be pretty cheap to pick up cause everything is just stock parts.

!!!! That's a really good idea and I will look into that since those parts are probably sitting around all over. I also should have no issues with the yearly NYS inspection and emissions. I suspect that I will need to have some pipe reducers put in or are you implying that all the pipes for his setup would actually bolt together as is?? Would I get a Wband bun out of these pipes are do these models share a hole for both the WB and O2 sensor?
 

CobraBob

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...... They also found my scraping noise that started 3 miles before I got to their shop. I though it was either a stone stuck the rotor guard or I just blew another pinion bearing (replaced one at 28K) when I punched it for a quick test before getting there. There was a branch that had jammed in my rocker panel underneath and it was scraping on the ground....somehow I missed it when i had looked underneath. $400 and hours of my life saved!
I once had a branch get caught up in one of my cars once. I thought it was a mechanical issue as well, and felt a lot better when I figured out it was a stuck tree branch. LOL.
 

Black05Shelby

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!!!! That's a really good idea and I will look into that since those parts are probably sitting around all over. I also should have no issues with the yearly NYS inspection and emissions. I suspect that I will need to have some pipe reducers put in or are you implying that all the pipes for his setup would actually bolt together as is?? Would I get a Wband bun out of these pipes are do these models share a hole for both the WB and O2 sensor?
 

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